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Old 09-16-2005, 07:19 AM   #10096
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Err i don't know where did you see that lube shouldn't be used, but I think it's 100% wrong.
Yes, I agree I dont care what the balls are made from, I will always use AE stealth lube.
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Old 09-16-2005, 07:23 AM   #10097
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Originally Posted by KORSA
At the thrust bearing you use only Trinity royal oil without any stealth lube?
I used to use a small amount of Stealth lube on the thrust bearing, but I tried just using royal oil and it works just aswell, if not better.
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Old 09-16-2005, 07:40 AM   #10098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2
I used to use a small amount of Stealth lube on the thrust bearing, but I tried just using royal oil and it works just aswell, if not better.
I use black grease on my thrusts. The pressure in a thrust is much higher than in the diff itself, I found silicon based greases won't hold up as well.
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Old 09-16-2005, 08:51 AM   #10099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2
I used to use a small amount of Stealth lube on the thrust bearing, but I tried just using royal oil and it works just aswell, if not better.
Thanks Jack2
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Old 09-16-2005, 09:10 AM   #10100
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Originally Posted by JRRobiso
Thanks for the reply Ben. Any other takers on my quest to convert my 415 from std arms to rev lt wt arms? Also, any recommendations on which susp blks, hub carrier (2 or 4 degrees) I should use & what's the built-in degree of toe-in for the rear hubs?

Thanks again for any reply.
The rear hubs on the lwt suspension are 1. Cant say anything on setup as Im keeping with the std suspension.
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Old 09-16-2005, 11:08 AM   #10101
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Talking Lt. Suspension!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
Thanks for the reply Ben. Any other takers on my quest to convert my 415 from std arms to rev lt wt arms? Also, any recommendations on which susp blks, hub carrier (2 or 4 degrees) I should use & what's the built-in degree of toe-in for the rear hubs?

Thanks again for any reply.
Have you looked at Dave Jun's set-up on the Tamiya website.
Although he is using his rear suspension arms in the back. The remaining set up is pretty sound. This is a good start point. I've used it on my son's 415 MS with Dave Jun set up and it is hooked up. I use a slightly modified set-up and it's not as good. But I'm not using his rear suspension either. The light weight arms are good but "just a warning" if you hit a lot of dots while driving the arms will break.
Good Luck!
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Old 09-17-2005, 05:14 AM   #10102
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I use the ACER ceramic diff balls and Atlas covers. Very big fan of the ACER balls really as even with the Atlas covers, the diff still became gritty. With the ACER balls though, the diff is still good after many runs in Modified with it. I highly recommend ACER for a variety of their products, especially their diff balls should you run a Tamiya car.
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Old 09-17-2005, 08:17 AM   #10103
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Can you tell me where to buy Atlas covers on-line?
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Old 09-17-2005, 11:05 AM   #10104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Err i don't know where did you see that lube shouldn't be used, but I think it's 100% wrong.
Well I didn't guarantee no lube is required. It has been stated at the websites of companies that do these coatings that often lube can be elimated when you have all the surface of two items that come into contact with another, that the coatings provide a coefficient of friction that is way lower and rivals that of some of the best lubricants that you can use before the coatings. The surface hardness is unreal and things go smoothly.

Also a lubricant will also be partly the problem as lubricants attract dust and debris and that is partly responsible for the degrading of the diffs when the ball or ring has it and it stays there grinding away at eachother.

I plan to experiment to see if I can get good diff action and longevity when I get the rings coated. I have already run Acer balls on stock rings dry before and it was close in terms of time between rebuilds as with Stealth lube on them. But I am running the lube for now. Even if I find I have to run a light coating of lube on the balls before assembly the coated rings and Acer balls will definitely run longer as the dirt can't damage the parts.

Indoor season starts soon so I should arrange to get the rings coated for my cars to see.
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Old 09-17-2005, 11:46 AM   #10105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tral
Can you tell me where to buy Atlas covers on-line?
I got mine from Rainbow Ten. Give them a hoy!
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Old 09-18-2005, 05:58 AM   #10106
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Hey Simmo, what's the link to the ACER balls website?
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Old 09-18-2005, 07:02 AM   #10107
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Go to http://www.acerracing.com/balls.html to check them out.
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Old 09-18-2005, 08:06 PM   #10108
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Are Acer the same mob you get your ceramic ball bearings from?
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Old 09-18-2005, 09:34 PM   #10109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower
Have you looked at Dave Jun's set-up on the Tamiya website.
Although he is using his rear suspension arms in the back. The remaining set up is pretty sound. This is a good start point. I've used it on my son's 415 MS with Dave Jun set up and it is hooked up. I use a slightly modified set-up and it's not as good. But I'm not using his rear suspension either. The light weight arms are good but "just a warning" if you hit a lot of dots while driving the arms will break.
Good Luck!
Don't worry....I've haven't break the arms yet...!!My MS been with me ever since its out in the market...And I have some mightly big crashes before...

Just be careful when you drive...Don't go fast if you're not confident of that particular setting...And the car will be safe...
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Old 09-18-2005, 09:40 PM   #10110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
Thanks for the reply Ben. Any other takers on my quest to convert my 415 from std arms to rev lt wt arms? Also, any recommendations on which susp blks, hub carrier (2 or 4 degrees) I should use & what's the built-in degree of toe-in for the rear hubs?

Thanks again for any reply.

I use the 4 deg caster blocks...Give it more exit steering.Less initial turn in.Which is what I want as I'm using a B4 legacy body,known to have a lot of steering,so the 4 deg caster block makes the car less twichier...But still has lots of steering.
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