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Old 09-15-2005, 11:48 PM   #10081
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SUSPENSION BLOCKS & UNIVERSALS

Just purchased a week ago the TB02/TA04 Rev Lt Wt arms & have plans to replace the standard arms on my 415. Would like to know what susp blks do I use & length of universals? I already have the A bridge blk & the other std blks that came with the 415 kit. Also would like to know w/c hub carrier (2 or 4 degress) should I use and what is the toe-in degree of the rear hubs (0, 1 or 2 degrees)? Also wanting to know if someone could share their set-up for med size , med flowing w/ med traction track w/ front spool (Speedtech/Tamiya) & ctr direct pully?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 09-15-2005, 11:57 PM   #10082
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I 've been running TAMIYA cars for some time now, and I was never pleased with the ball diffs. It seems that no matter what I do, after 4-5 packs they are no longer smooth. When I was at the worlds in Florida in 2004 I was sitting next to Karn, and Mark R. was sitting opposite to Karn. I wathced how they both changed or rebuilt their diffs quite often, almost after every two runs.
By comparison the Xray diffs can last up to 10-15 runs without any problems.

Have you guys found a solution to this?
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Old 09-16-2005, 12:20 AM   #10083
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John,

At R10 you can buy plastic diff sealers for tamiya diff's. The xray diffs are closed and the tamiya diffs are not. So with this sealer you have no more problems of getting dirt into the diff and therefor you can run them much longer.

Product : Diff Protectseal TRF415
Manuf. : Team Atlas
Partnumber : MH7-613

Marc
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Old 09-16-2005, 12:24 AM   #10084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
SUSPENSION BLOCKS & UNIVERSALS

Just purchased a week ago the TB02/TA04 Rev Lt Wt arms & have plans to replace the standard arms on my 415. Would like to know what susp blks do I use & length of universals? I already have the A bridge blk & the other std blks that came with the 415 kit. Also would like to know w/c hub carrier (2 or 4 degress) should I use and what is the toe-in degree of the rear hubs (0, 1 or 2 degrees)? Also wanting to know if someone could share their set-up for med size , med flowing w/ med traction track w/ front spool (Speedtech/Tamiya) & ctr direct pully?

Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry can't answer all the questions as the car's not with me at work.

ANyway about the shaft lenght,its 46mm.

Usually,I'll use a one way for my track's current layout,but its somewhere med size. I'll use yellow all round and yellow anti roll bars all round.With 50 trinity weight oil.Front shock hole is 2nd from the bottom and the rear is the 2nd hole from the top. Rear toe in 2.5 degrees.

This is all I can remember.

I use sorex 40R tires with sorex type C medium inserts.
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Old 09-16-2005, 02:34 AM   #10085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Doucakis
I 've been running TAMIYA cars for some time now, and I was never pleased with the ball diffs. It seems that no matter what I do, after 4-5 packs they are no longer smooth. When I was at the worlds in Florida in 2004 I was sitting next to Karn, and Mark R. was sitting opposite to Karn. I wathced how they both changed or rebuilt their diffs quite often, almost after every two runs.
By comparison the Xray diffs can last up to 10-15 runs without any problems.

Have you guys found a solution to this?
Another solution to extend the life of the diff is to use Evo3/4 outdrives with two thrustbearings stacked on eachother.
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Old 09-16-2005, 02:47 AM   #10086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Doucakis
I 've been running TAMIYA cars for some time now, and I was never pleased with the ball diffs. It seems that no matter what I do, after 4-5 packs they are no longer smooth. When I was at the worlds in Florida in 2004 I was sitting next to Karn, and Mark R. was sitting opposite to Karn. I wathced how they both changed or rebuilt their diffs quite often, almost after every two runs.
By comparison the Xray diffs can last up to 10-15 runs without any problems.

Have you guys found a solution to this?
I have no problems with my diff, it stays butter smooth for quite a few runs.

I used the Delrin out-drives (reinforced diff joint), I use the Acer ceramic 3mm diff balls, I only use the standard diff plates, I always make sure the thrust bearing is perfect and lubed with trinty royal oil and lube the balls up and diff plates up with AE stealth lube. I'm usually getting 20-25 or so runs running mod on asphalt without it getting the slightest bit gritty.

I don't use diff cover or seals either.

~Jack
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Old 09-16-2005, 02:51 AM   #10087
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John
I also have problems with my balldiffs. For me the balldiffs are the only real bad thing with the Tamiya cars. Even using the Atlas diff covers the diff donīt last much more than 5 runs and after that the car doesnīt handle the same as before. Youīre right the Xray diff works much better maybe these are the best diffs currently. But I also have to say I tried a FK05 and it doesnīt handle to my liking also wasnīt as fast as my Tamiyas but only tried outdoors.
Regarding the Tamiya diffs I think the thrust bearing and the diffrings are not good quality. Iīm currently using HPI carbide thrust bearings what helps a little but I think better diffrings may help even more. I know the ones from Yokomo will work but had not the chance testing them.
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Old 09-16-2005, 03:33 AM   #10088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2
I have no problems with my diff, it stays butter smooth for quite a few runs.

I used the Delrin out-drives (reinforced diff joint), I use the Acer ceramic 3mm diff balls, I only use the standard diff plates, I always make sure the thrust bearing is perfect and lubed with trinty royal oil and lube the balls up and diff plates up with AE stealth lube. I'm usually getting 20-25 or so runs running mod on asphalt without it getting the slightest bit gritty.

I don't use diff cover or seals either.

~Jack
I back this up, and I add, Acer Ceramic balls are a MUST HAVE on any tamiya diff (that's for you V12, you should get a set of those they make a HUGE difference in consistancy of the diff throughout the runs).
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Old 09-16-2005, 05:01 AM   #10089
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Well I am thinking of getting the Diff Plates coated in Titanium Nitride or Graphit IC (Diamond like Carbon) coating and experimenting with that. You should not have to lube the diff balls or plates when combined with Silicon Nitride diff balls from Acer.


At least the MSX conversion will calm down the aggrivation of changing the diffs now.
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Old 09-16-2005, 05:59 AM   #10090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2
I have no problems with my diff, it stays butter smooth for quite a few runs.

I used the Delrin out-drives (reinforced diff joint), I use the Acer ceramic 3mm diff balls, I only use the standard diff plates, I always make sure the thrust bearing is perfect and lubed with trinty royal oil and lube the balls up and diff plates up with AE stealth lube. I'm usually getting 20-25 or so runs running mod on asphalt without it getting the slightest bit gritty.

I don't use diff cover or seals either.

~Jack
At the thrust bearing you use only Trinity royal oil without any stealth lube?
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Old 09-16-2005, 06:21 AM   #10091
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I have to say I bought some ceramic diffballs here from Marc Rheinards father so I think should be not too bad. Used aluminium diff halves also together with the HPI carbide thrust bearings. This was at the last indoor race last winter and this was working much better for about 5-8 runs (donīt remember the exact number of runs) but didnīt run the 415 after this again. Itīs my indoor car donīt wanted running the 415 outdoors in the dust and fiddling around with the bad access to the diffs.
Outdoors Iīm running the old EVO3 what still is a very fast car but the same problems with the diff but at least much easier to replace during a race. Now outdoor racing is over for me and back to indoor next month.
I know one driver here using a complete Pro4 diff just with the 415 pulley and this worked much longer for him.
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Old 09-16-2005, 06:47 AM   #10092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190mph
Well I am thinking of getting the Diff Plates coated in Titanium Nitride or Graphit IC (Diamond like Carbon) coating and experimenting with that. You should not have to lube the diff balls or plates when combined with Silicon Nitride diff balls from Acer.


At least the MSX conversion will calm down the aggrivation of changing the diffs now.
Donīt know if this really would work but if you ever have seen Xray diff plates you know how they should be. Hardened and grinded(?) so they are completely plain. XXX-S diff plates were similar. Then 12 diffballs instead of 8 running on a larger circle than the small circle as with the Tamyia diffs and additional a great thrust bearing as used with the (old) Xray or Losi XXX-S, this would be a perfect diff.

Before the Tamiya cars I was running a XXX-S and the diffs worked at least for 3 month without touching them and this was just with carbide balls not ceramic. The Tamiya diffs donīt hold for one complete race, at least with carbide balls. Thatīs not only for me I know alot of people having this problem. I like running the Tamiya cars but they really should improve the diff design.
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Old 09-16-2005, 06:55 AM   #10093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben.C
Sorry can't answer all the questions as the car's not with me at work.

ANyway about the shaft lenght,its 46mm.

Usually,I'll use a one way for my track's current layout,but its somewhere med size. I'll use yellow all round and yellow anti roll bars all round.With 50 trinity weight oil.Front shock hole is 2nd from the bottom and the rear is the 2nd hole from the top. Rear toe in 2.5 degrees.

This is all I can remember.

I use sorex 40R tires with sorex type C medium inserts.
Thanks for the reply Ben. Any other takers on my quest to convert my 415 from std arms to rev lt wt arms? Also, any recommendations on which susp blks, hub carrier (2 or 4 degrees) I should use & what's the built-in degree of toe-in for the rear hubs?

Thanks again for any reply.
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Old 09-16-2005, 07:04 AM   #10094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12
Donīt know if this really would work but if you ever have seen Xray diff plates you know how they should be. Hardened and grinded(?) so they are completely plain. XXX-S diff plates were similar. Then 12 diffballs instead of 8 running on a larger circle than the small circle as with the Tamyia diffs and additional a great thrust bearing as used with the (old) Xray or Losi XXX-S, this would be a perfect diff.

Before the Tamiya cars I was running a XXX-S and the diffs worked at least for 3 month without touching them and this was just with carbide balls not ceramic. The Tamiya diffs donīt hold for one complete race, at least with carbide balls. Thatīs not only for me I know alot of people having this problem. I like running the Tamiya cars but they really should improve the diff design.
With Acer balls and atlas covers I run outdoors without rebuilding my diff more often than once every 20/30 runs. The thrust bearing needs checking, but you don't need to take the diff out to take the thrust bearing out and clean it, so it's not an issue IMO I usually clean it after 5/6 runs outdoors on very dusty tracks.
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Old 09-16-2005, 07:08 AM   #10095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190mph
Well I am thinking of getting the Diff Plates coated in Titanium Nitride or Graphit IC (Diamond like Carbon) coating and experimenting with that. You should not have to lube the diff balls or plates when combined with Silicon Nitride diff balls from Acer.


At least the MSX conversion will calm down the aggrivation of changing the diffs now.
Err i don't know where did you see that lube shouldn't be used, but I think it's 100% wrong.
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