Mr-s413bt

iTrader: (5)

Heya.

Yeah i have already ordered my MSX conversion from Champ-RC, 16800yen.

Seems like a pretty fair price to me


Glenn

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Yeh, great price I think, especially given what the retail is.

Looking forward to it very much, like an early Christmas.

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Guys,

Just a quick note for clarification: The current price we have for the TRF415MSX conversion is the latest MSRP price we have on the kit. The final Speed Tech R/C discount price will be determined once the conversion kit arrives, and we will notify all pre-order customers right away.

If you have already paid by paypal, you will be refunded the difference when the discount price is announced.

Thank you all that have pre-ordered

Steve Wang

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Also, in reference to the Pro-Module suspension, according to David Jun of Tamiya USA, he is not sure if the Tamiya Japan released version will have all the necessary hardware to fit it on the TRF415 (the extra spacers and hardware screws) and also he is not sure if the tuned spring will be included as well. The next batch we receive from Tamiya USA might be the last batch that will included all necessary hardware and tuned spring.

Steve Wang

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

I think that Tamiya Japan would be pretty silly to release a hopup part, that you couldn't put on the car without buying other bits and pieces, that are specific to the arms really (anyone seem 100mm spacers on a car before). I agree that it may not have the spring set, but we'll see.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hey barry... so you finally got rid of the Mi2... Must have made an impression with the car when I came to visit all thoose months ago

Anyway, from what I gather your saying, on your steering link plate, there is 4mm of shims under the ball joint. Now depending on how you have the rack setup, and which car and suspension type, this alters the bump steer characteristics.

Firstly, what suspension type do you have? is it the Lightweight (a la the MS and Evo4) or the Standard suspension (a la TA04 etc)?

I actually alter the amount of bump steer, depending on the suspension type I'm running. With the 4mm you mention, it sounds like the car has been setup with the lower steering rack mod, the Marc R ran at the worlds.

Have a look at this pic, and let us know if the three spacers on the post are all above the steering arm (like in the pic), or are they two above, and one below (which is the std setup).

http://www.thard.co.uk/rc/TRF415/images/415g.jpg

If it's in the lower position (like the pic), 4mm is spot on for the LWT, but for the STD suspension, use 3mm. If the rack is in the higher position, put 1mm under for the LWT, and none for the STD.

This means you'll have zero bump steer for each suspension setup. I have actually run the wrong setting before (4mm with stock susp, lowered rack), and it made the car incrediably nervous and unpredictable to drive.... and that was with only 1mm difference.

HiH
Ed

BritRacer

so what about the DJ pro setup, is this something aimed at carpet or outdoor racing?


Has anyone run it on carpet, and if so what are the opinions?

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

This, like the MSX, is used to generate more grip. Therefore, it is orientated towards the outdoor asphalt scene.

DOMOisCOOL

Hi all,

I just picked up a nicely loaded 415. Came with aluminum rear hubs, low friction belts, and a locked one way middle shaft.

I have a few questions.

1. Does anybody have a good starting setup for running a mid-low traction asphalt parking lot track?

2. Are there any modifications to be done (ex. In the Pro 4, you have to do the upper deck mod).

3. Where do you guys place your Personal Transponders?

4. Lastly, what does the middle locked one way shaft do?

Thanks!

Barry_Hughes

Hi Ed,
Yep made the transition!

The car is a 415 with MS chassis, the arms are standard 415's ie not lightweight.
It has two shims above the the arm and 1 below, whilst your picture has all 3 above. This " above 1 below seems the standard set up at Ipswich. amongst the 4 415's running, soon to be 5 with me, plus another 2 on there way.

I have just bought a true MS version as well, just waiting for it to be delivered! Hope it comes before next weekend as I am at Barham for the STCC.

lolol123

how much you paid for your 415ms?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

the 2 above, 1 below, is the std setup from the manual.
The three above was spotted as a mod on Marc R's car at the last worlds, and personally, I've used it ever since.
BTW if you want to take some slop out of the steering, take 6 of the 0.1mm thick axle spacers, and place them on the steering posts (I tend to split them above and below the steering arms), 3 per side. It stops the arms moving vertically on the posts, which takes out a lot of slop on the car.

I might be at the STCC Barham meeting... if so, I'll pop over and say hi (I've moved back to kent now, after completing uni.)

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Try the standard setup to start with. If you've still got the front 1-way in the car, use harder springs on the front to balance out the steering. Also look at getting a spool, there are number of versions from different manufacuters out there.

Not really. The steering post mod I mention above (with the axle shims) is a useful one to do. Just pay attention to the suspension, and use any spacers/shims to take the slop out of the car without binding the suspension.
One other thing to try is using a longer grub screw on the spur holder. I found it a pain in the arse using a small one when I first got the car, so I took a spare droop screw, and used that instead. The end protrudes a little from the holder, and makes it much easier to loosen the spur holder.

Personally, on top of the servo. I have seen people place it either under the front bumper, or on a transponder bracket.

This operates in the same way as the front 1-way unit, but working on the layshaft instead. If I'm running the 1-ways, I tend to use both, as this reduces a tweak affect that can occur when running just the front 1-ways.
If you used just the front one-way unit, off-power the front belt would be rotating, and as a result any difference in free wheeling of the bearings in the unit would be exaberated [sp?], which could lead to a pull left or right
off power, as one bearing is tighter than the other.
If you run both, this doens't reall occur, as the front belt and pulley are free to rotate off power. So if theres is any tightness in the bearings, this is absorbed by whole front section free-wheeling.
Hopefully that makes sense.

No prob.
Ed

BritRacer

Does nobody mount the transponder on the top deck under 2 top chasis screws? Or will this generate tweak?

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

transponder.

in my cars i have them either mounted in a cutout portion of the front bumper. i use a long body clip that spans the length of the two body posts...this captures the transponder securely.

in car two i use strong velcro and have it on the top deck. this second car i swap transponders with another i have so it's a nice non-permanent solution.

---------

domo.

i can type up a pdf. of what i ran recently on asphault if you want to try it.