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Old 08-29-2005, 11:30 AM   #9856
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Hybrid do something similiar, but you still need to take the screws out from the suspension blocks.
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Old 08-29-2005, 02:00 PM   #9857
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I was talking to Adam Rogers and David Spashett today an the KO GP at West London ( http://www.wlrc.co.uk) and the both run the HPI steering arm an their cars. It is meant to improve the steering, you can use bigger bearings and TIR front drive shafts. I asked David if the MSX was worth getting and his reply was "It's worth getting just because you only have 4 screws to take out to access the diffs".

I think Adam won the mod class overall but I will need to get this confirmed.
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Old 08-29-2005, 02:28 PM   #9858
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You don't happen to know the part numbers for all the above parts do you?
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Old 08-29-2005, 02:37 PM   #9859
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Hi Ballsie

The part numbers are listed on the last page for the HPI parts. They are sold as 1 front steering block and 1 rear hub. That's fine if you want to change front and rear. If you want to change the front you are best speaking to somepne who has a pro4, you may be able to get the cheaper.

One thing I noticed on Adam's car was that he doesn't run the 4 chassis posts, does anyone else run their car like that?
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Old 08-29-2005, 02:47 PM   #9860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTD RACING
I was talking to Adam Rogers and David Spashett today an the KO GP at West London ( http://www.wlrc.co.uk) and the both run the HPI steering arm an their cars. It is meant to improve the steering, you can use bigger bearings and TIR front drive shafts. I asked David if the MSX was worth getting and his reply was "It's worth getting just because you only have 4 screws to take out to access the diffs".

I think Adam won the mod class overall but I will need to get this confirmed.

adam was using the pro4 front hubs.his been using them since halifax.
he was using tamiya 1 degree aluminium rear hubs.
he used a 2 mm spacer on the upper link on the rear on the outer part.this i blieve brings it upto pro4 hieght.
the trf415ms seems to struggle with the turn in especially with the spool.
these pro4 front hubs change ackerman and through that changes steering angles and is more aggressive.
i was using them on carpet at carpet wars last year to give more steering.
also use .21mm spacers behind front wishbones.gives a faster reacting car.
we use 2mm spacer in front of rear wishbones.
i have also cut the top deck brace off[the part that goes across the rear of the top deck]
this sems top give a bit more flex for low to med bite asphelt.
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Old 08-29-2005, 03:22 PM   #9861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTD RACING

One thing I noticed on Adam's car was that he doesn't run the 4 chassis posts, does anyone else run their car like that?
I dont run the chassis posts either.
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Old 08-29-2005, 03:35 PM   #9862
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Just to specify...

I believe most people do not run the chassis posts when running outdoors on asphault.

Indoors with carpet I would say run the posts most of the time.
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Old 08-29-2005, 03:45 PM   #9863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTD RACING
Hi Ballsie

The part numbers are listed on the last page for the HPI parts. They are sold as 1 front steering block and 1 rear hub. That's fine if you want to change front and rear. If you want to change the front you are best speaking to somepne who has a pro4, you may be able to get the cheaper.

One thing I noticed on Adam's car was that he doesn't run the 4 chassis posts, does anyone else run their car like that?
we dnt tend to run the posts,as i said above we try and get as much chassis flex as possible for ashphelt.
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Old 08-29-2005, 04:59 PM   #9864
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Outdoors, I never run the chassis posts anymore. I did a back to back once at Ashby with them on, and then off, and the car was much improved by not running them. It handled the bumps better, and had more grip.

Indoors however, they go back on, and I get the car as stiff as I can... Xray blue springs anyone

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Old 08-29-2005, 07:54 PM   #9865
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OK, i have tried to find the answer, but there isnt one, just opinions.

1) I bought a used 415, how do I tell if it has the 415 or the MS chassis.
2) If I have the standard 415 chassis, will I be able to use the MSX conversion.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:03 PM   #9866
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Std 415 chassis = 3mm thick
MS 415 shassis = 2.5mm thick

MSX conversion is suppose to work on both chassis with lwt suspension.
from what I read on tamiya's site.

Hope that helps,
James
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:04 PM   #9867
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Also, the shock towers are different between the MS and std, with the std front tower having a bump in the middle with a hole (never knew what that was for). The other thing you could look for is the bulkheads. If they say MS on them, then you have an MS kit. If not, then you have a std kit.

Like reilly says, if you have LWT suspension on a std 415, then MSX will work fine. Will behave differently with a 3mm chassis though.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:06 PM   #9868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritRacer
OK, i have tried to find the answer, but there isnt one, just opinions.

1) I bought a used 415, how do I tell if it has the 415 or the MS chassis.
Yes. I think there is a kit for doing it.
Quote:
2) If I have the standard 415 chassis, will I be able to use the MSX conversion.
Yes, but you have to have the MS suspension.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:09 PM   #9869
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ok, i have the LW suspension, and i run on carpet, so 3mm is better for me.

Will get the MSX as like the ease of diff removal aspect!
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:18 PM   #9870
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OK, it seems i had the TA04 hard front uprights on, are better/worse that the LW C Uprights?

I have some C Uprights, but the current bearings in the Hard uprights dont fit.

What size bearings are designed to go in the LW hubs, Do i need different axles?

thanks

Last edited by BritRacer; 08-29-2005 at 08:41 PM.
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