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Old 07-18-2005, 02:58 AM   #9451
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Default ft vibration

trf ms i getting real bad front vibration
i think its the drive shafts on acceleration
if u sit on stand & rev turning steering l & r
wshbones jump on low revs as on track any ideas ????????
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Old 07-18-2005, 03:52 AM   #9452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-oz
trf ms i getting real bad front vibration
i think its the drive shafts on acceleration
if u sit on stand & rev turning steering l & r
wshbones jump on low revs as on track any ideas ????????
What style of front drive are you running(ie, Spool, one-way or ball diff) ??

Never had such a problem before so not sure what it could be.

I would try the following things.
Check that the swing arms(drive shafts) are straight.
Check that the axles are straight
check the outdrives to make sure there are not damaged or bent.
Check that the tires are balanced(or close too)
Check the bearings in the front hubs, but I'd say it would more likley be one of the above things.
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Old 07-18-2005, 03:55 AM   #9453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-oz
trf ms i getting real bad front vibration
i think its the drive shafts on acceleration
if u sit on stand & rev turning steering l & r
wshbones jump on low revs as on track any ideas ????????

Think thats a typical case of CV joints chattering.... When a CV joint comes to an extreme angel,it gets jam of some sort...So maybe that why you have that kind of vibration when you turn your steering L & R.

Maybe you can reduce your steering throw until there's little or no chattering/vibration.

My 2 cents...
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Old 07-18-2005, 04:27 AM   #9454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-oz
trf ms i getting real bad front vibration
i think its the drive shafts on acceleration
if u sit on stand & rev turning steering l & r
wshbones jump on low revs as on track any ideas ????????
Try dismantling the CV joint, clean fully and lube up before rebuilding, i find the grease gets dirty and hard and makes the vibration you are talking about.
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:05 AM   #9455
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tried all these
im to try new drive shafts
what about wishbone angle
im running 3 deg tow out
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:45 AM   #9456
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i only have this problem when running a spool at full lock. i've used a dremel to clean out the inside of the cvd axle so the drive shaft moves a bit easier inside. this helped but still vibrates slightly. only real answer is to set the car up to get more steering to allow u to turn down the end points.
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:48 AM   #9457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-oz
tried all these
im to try new drive shafts
what about wishbone angle
im running 3 deg tow out

3 degrees seems a lot. I have never used that much, Try usuing 1 degree or even back it off to 0.
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:58 PM   #9458
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Jack 2 and ben.c are both correct it could be both,Dean oz.
The other thing i have noticed on soom of the pro cars is they super glue a washer or shim to the inside of the steering arm to limit the throw which also causes chatter
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:34 AM   #9459
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Hi guys,
Just a help !!
To run stock, should the belt drive be tight or not ? And for mod, what is the best configuration for belt drive ?

tks all
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:46 AM   #9460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neosan
Hi guys,
Just a help !!
To run stock, should the belt drive be tight or not ? And for mod, what is the best configuration for belt drive ?

tks all
Not sure if this helps you...

But for comparison purposes I run both my 415's running stock and mod with 2 "notches" back from the center mark on the black bearing holders in the bulkheads. That is the same on the front and back.
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Old 07-19-2005, 11:50 PM   #9461
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My belt tips?

Get yourself some rush or echo belts, and run them on standard settings. They will not break or loose teeth like the tamiya belts.
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Old 07-20-2005, 12:58 AM   #9462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neosan
Hi guys,
Just a help !!
To run stock, should the belt drive be tight or not ? And for mod, what is the best configuration for belt drive ?

tks all
Tight belts makes you feel that the car is more punchy and more aggressive.As for loose belts you feel otherwise.Cause when its loose,when you give it gas,the belt will absorp some of the power from the motor.

Its somthing like motor.You put harder spring for the brush,the motor will feel very punchy if you put soft springs,the motor will be more softer during acceleration.

My 2 cents...
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Old 07-21-2005, 04:12 PM   #9463
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well after goign back and forth from the BD and the 415 i finally decided to go with the 415. Just one question...how is the 415's tweak problems? Is there alot? O and for the msx conversion i finally found out this...so i guess getting the standard 415 kit does work.

"*Compatible Chassis: TRF415MS, (also TRF415 equipped with reversible suspension) " - tamiyausa.com
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Old 07-21-2005, 04:24 PM   #9464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axel
well after goign back and forth from the BD and the 415 i finally decided to go with the 415. Just one question...how is the 415's tweak problems? Is there alot? O and for the msx conversion i finally found out this...so i guess getting the standard 415 kit does work.

"*Compatible Chassis: TRF415MS, (also TRF415 equipped with reversible suspension) " - tamiyausa.com
In my experience the 415 is a pretty solid car. I've run carpet stock, 19T, and mod (rubber and foam) with it and had no problems with major tweaking. I like the 3mm chassis for indoor carpet.

I haven't used the thinner chassis so I can't comment on that.
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Old 07-22-2005, 01:34 AM   #9465
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Default ft vibration

cheers for all the advise guys
sorted it
put new driveshafts in slightly better
then checked spool/ bent put new one in better but not there yet
checked with one way slightly better on futher investigation roller bearing
had blown put new one in much much better only there slightly
then put new 4deg caster blocks on
at last sorted
spool /oneway & diff fine
must have started with one of these & then affected the rest
back to fast racing tamiya style
thanks again for all the ideas
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