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Old 06-26-2005, 06:33 AM   #9256
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I was running 19t - I will try it again next sunday on Asphalt - this time with a 12x2 Rheinard World Edition.

I think the car actually works better on carpet with the one-way in the front to be honest.
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Old 06-26-2005, 07:51 AM   #9257
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Big chatter can cause extreme loss in corner speed. So for me, it's a performance issue.

Was the Speedtech spool a new version (4 slotted thin fins) or old one? Also did the car have old style suspension or LW? If it's LW.. the bones might fit too deep into the slots on the spool and cause the slots to "flower" or spread open when the suspension is compressed. If this was the case, you might have to shorten the outdrives on the spool (preferred) or use shorter dogbones.
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Old 06-26-2005, 11:56 AM   #9258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Big chatter can cause extreme loss in corner speed. So for me, it's a performance issue.

Was the Speedtech spool a new version (4 slotted thin fins) or old one? Also did the car have old style suspension or LW? If it's LW.. the bones might fit too deep into the slots on the spool and cause the slots to "flower" or spread open when the suspension is compressed. If this was the case, you might have to shorten the outdrives on the spool (preferred) or use shorter dogbones.
Kilruf I disagree. the closer to the outer end of the outdrive the dogbone has more leverage on the metal that makes up the outdrive. you would have more problems with the outdrive bending, flexing, and / or breaking. If the dog bone sits deeper in the slot the outdrive has more strength.
My guess is it is the new version spool. The older version with only 2 slots, had more meat and strength. some of the disadvantages of trying to loose weight some times meens you sacrifice durability.
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Old 06-26-2005, 04:46 PM   #9259
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Hey TamiyaRacer, you were right.

Its the latest light weight spool with the 4 slots. I am also running the old suspension too.

Glenn
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:25 PM   #9260
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Default 415ms and battery slot alignment

RE the battery slots; although I thought the spacing was off, I laid it up against my EVO III chassis and found that I had to remove a lot more material from the chassis - once I did, the battery slips in perfectly. Now will someone please explain why Tamiya makes the slots so small and makes us make a big mess to grind them bigger??

Last edited by minidriver; 06-26-2005 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:06 PM   #9261
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i know on my original 415's, they were just right, but my Evo IV is like you mentioned... its like the slots are a tiny bit further apart. i used tape on both, woth no problems...


as for a no tape solution... i was using the old X-ray strap, or have a buddy here used an RDX as well.... both probably not TCS-able, Dave!!!!
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:20 PM   #9262
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I have a few questions to ask you 415 peeps. I have trying to decide to get the new team associated FT TC4 or tamiya 415MS. I have a TC4 right now, and I really like the feel of it. Some other questions I wanted to ask, does the 415ms cost about $1,500??????? with electronics . I was also curious is this new 415msx going to be a upgrade to the 415ms or its going to be a all new car that is going to cost outrageous .

PS: I am also a very new driver I started about january 05 and been driving alot since, I was not sure if this car is above my skill level.


Thanks

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Old 06-26-2005, 11:20 PM   #9263
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The problem with the spool I am referring to is the dog bone pressing up against the outdrive blades forcing them to spread open. I understand what you are saying about the dogbone end sit farther in is better. Yes I agree to that. But my friends 415MS with the new "2" slotted SpeedTech spool had a problem with butterflying the spool outdrives. We just thought it was a weak spool design. But it was later found out that when the suspension compressed (with the dogbone end sitting far inside the spool) the dogbone shaft would actually hit up against the outdrive ends forcing it to spread open. His solution was to shorten the outdrive ends just enough to give clearance for the dogbone shaft. Sorry I did not make myself more clear before...
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Old 06-27-2005, 01:12 AM   #9264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
Any more update on the availability and performance of the DJ Pro Module suspension? Dave was very helpful initially but has been absent for quite a while.

Bueller, Bueller !!!!!!!!!!

With DJ taking out the win at the KO race i would have thought pics and reviews would be floating around

Any more news on performance? was DJ using it at the KO?
Any news on availability?
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Old 06-27-2005, 03:44 AM   #9265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Big chatter can cause extreme loss in corner speed. So for me, it's a performance issue.
dogbones.
Thx
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:52 AM   #9266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macvolcom
I have a few questions to ask you 415 peeps. I have trying to decide to get the new team associated FT TC4 or tamiya 415MS. I have a TC4 right now, and I really like the feel of it.
If i was you, i would stay to AE with the FT TC4... You already have one and it's easier to stock up.... The 415 in general is a good car but needs more preparation before and after a race,... a bit difficult for some racer... but a very good car like any others out there....And not sure you can have a MS brand new those days....

Quote:
Originally Posted by macvolcom
Some other questions I wanted to ask, does the 415ms cost about $1,500??????? with electronics .
First, the 415MS is out of electronic and cost around 470$.... Up to you to buy the electronic of your choice but for sure you don't need 1500$ to get everything and specially if you already have some stuff....

Quote:
Originally Posted by macvolcom
I was also curious is this new 415msx going to be a upgrade to the 415ms or its going to be a all new car that is going to cost outrageous .
From a source, the car might be out in 1-3 coming month... At first it's not an upgrade and it won't have any upgrade to the the 415MS until the MS was a limited edition.... So brand new car.... But we never know.... And it won't be more expensive than what we already use to now...


Quote:
Originally Posted by macvolcom
PS: I am also a very new driver I started about january 05 and been driving alot since, I was not sure if this car is above my skill level.
If you feel enought good ,go for it but it's all depend in taking time to learn your car, drive it around without hitting or breaking even at slow speed and then quick up when you are ok..... But i don't think there is really a car suitable for a beginer because any Top Driver can run a TT01 and kick you up for a few lap or the roll race.... So drive in time, learn and then go for the win...
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Old 06-27-2005, 10:42 AM   #9267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macvolcom
I have a few questions to ask you 415 peeps. I have trying to decide to get the new team associated FT TC4 or tamiya 415MS. I have a TC4 right now, and I really like the feel of it. Some other questions I wanted to ask, does the 415ms cost about $1,500??????? with electronics . I was also curious is this new 415msx going to be a upgrade to the 415ms or its going to be a all new car that is going to cost outrageous .

PS: I am also a very new driver I started about january 05 and been driving alot since, I was not sure if this car is above my skill level.


Thanks

Matt
Stick w/ the TC4 for awhile and save your energy driving instead building up new cars every 6 months would be my suggestion
There is no magic pill (or chassis) to making a new guy good- only consistency.
FYI; Novice rule #1- spend more money on tires than you do on motors. You'll be whooping up on people in no time.
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A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...
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Old 06-27-2005, 10:47 AM   #9268
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Checking the results this week, the MSX "bag of tweak" wins the European Reedy and the KO Grand Prix. How can that be
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:01 AM   #9269
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Default dj pro model

anyone have any clues of what i have wrong ...

dj rear pro model just got the car and it has 1.5 toe on left rear and 3.0 on right rear ...

no scrapes or scratches no bent pins no bent blocks i can stick lw arms on it and it is perfect ....

i dont see any toe built into the dj hubs themselves .....

anyone got any suggestions ???????

Last edited by dynoman007; 06-27-2005 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:15 AM   #9270
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i bolted my dj suspension on last week ran it yesterday with A/D blocks and its got 1.5 deg toe in. the hubs should be zero toe like u said. what blocks r u running?
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