R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-09-2005, 03:29 PM   #9136
Tech Master
 
TRF415boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,857
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JP
With the std MS the bulkheads are only joined together by graphite. Atleast this way you have locking Aluminium pieces and shock towers to hold everything tight. Plus now the flex of the top deck is equal on both sides due to the extended bulkhead on the battery side. In normal racing i cannot see a problem with tweak, but i can also appreciate that i a major whoooopsy finding the bent part might be difficult.
now explain me friend, what is the difference between having the parts being aluminium and graphite ? I see none, both can move about a screw even if tight. The shock towers are on separate parts that can move about on a crash. The bulkheads have many reinforcement parts that can move about on a crash. As I said, more parts equals more problems that can arise. Only solution would be to have all the parts keyed properly, but i can't see that happening, it would be way to costly and would need very high tolerances.
TRF415boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2005, 03:42 PM   #9137
JP
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 29
Default

Graphite can flex more than aluminium. The tolerances of the aluminium pieces can be alot tighter and so give a much better build. The bottom part of the bulheads are still one piece and should supply an adequate platform. Changing diffs and maintenance will be soooo much easier.
JP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2005, 03:53 PM   #9138
Tech Addict
 
Scho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sheffield, UK
Posts: 584
Send a message via MSN to Scho
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Spot on

Basically, the more parts in the strut's assembly, the more chances of the pieces moving one relatively to the other during a crash.
Its common sense
Scho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2005, 04:00 PM   #9139
Tech Master
 
TRF415boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,857
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JP
Graphite can flex more than aluminium. The tolerances of the aluminium pieces can be alot tighter and so give a much better build. The bottom part of the bulheads are still one piece and should supply an adequate platform. Changing diffs and maintenance will be soooo much easier.
I don't agree. Graphite is more flexible only in one direction, in the other two, the ones that counts, it's much stiffer. And it won't bend. Tolerances of graphite parts can be as tight as for aluminium parts, it don't matter because, when it comes to drilling a hole for an M3 screw, the same tool will be used, and it will have some play in both cases.

I'm not having issues with the access on the car. I can change the front one way to a spool in 5 minutes. I never do that in a race, I can probably do that in practice, and 5 minutes is much more time than the time between two packs during practice for an important race. If it's not an important race i'll be using the spool anyway, hassle free. As for the rear diff, it takes me 2 minutes to access it and put it back in place. Once again, I never touch it during a race. If I have to do so, it means i wasn't well enough prepared for the race, but that's hardly ever the case, or necessary.
TRF415boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2005, 04:13 PM   #9140
Tech Champion
 
MikeR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 5,042
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

TRF415Boy,
What about the mid decks then? Aren't they eliminated on the MSX? You are just as likely to have tweak there aren't you? A little slip here or there with the mid decks during a race will wreak havoc on your tweak, camber & droop. No mid decks equals about the same parts count as before also. So... in this case it's a give or take I believe.

2 minutes to change the rear diff? Don't you reset the droop, camber and tweak after you reassemble? Trust me- the numbers aren't the same after you reassemble
__________________
www.exotekracing.com ☆ASSOCIATED☆DURANGO☆HPI☆HB RACING☆KYOSHO☆LOSI/TLR☆SERPENT☆TAMIYA☆XRAY☆

A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...

Last edited by MikeR; 06-09-2005 at 04:38 PM.
MikeR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2005, 04:58 PM   #9141
Tech Master
 
TRF415boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,857
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
TRF415Boy,
What about the mid decks then? Aren't they eliminated on the MSX? You are just as likely to have tweak there aren't you? A little slip here or there with the mid decks during a race will wreak havoc on your tweak, camber & droop. No mid decks equals about the same parts count as before also. So... in this case it's a give or take I believe.

2 minutes to change the rear diff? Don't you reset the droop, camber and tweak after you reassemble? Trust me- the numbers aren't the same after you reassemble
Nope, not if you're using the stifening posts. As a mattrer of fact, they eliminate most of the risks of tweak by moving most of the shock of a crash directly to the chassis without passing by the structure.

Re-set droop camber and tweak ? Not at all, I take very good care when assembling my chassis and it's always the same, it's a matter of common sense to put the parts back in the same position. But then again, if you're having to do that on the normal 415, the MSX will be even worse.

By the way, I don't use tweak boards, they're useless IMO. If your 415 is built properly, you don't need it. I always use the same preload on the L/R shocks and every time i put the car on a tweak station, it showed spot on
TRF415boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2005, 10:42 PM   #9142
Tech Elite
 
Turbonium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Turbonium
Default

anyone think the mid-deck setup has very tight tolerances? uh, not quite. i dont believe that the new design would be any more likely to hold a tweak.

i remember building my first 415 (still have it!), thinking... these parts will all move against themselves in a hard crash.

either way, looks like a very nice layout...i especially like how low the topdeck sits.
__________________
Wes

Team Novak
Turbonium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 03:40 AM   #9143
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: newcastle
Posts: 301
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

can someone tell me what is the weight of the oil is in the standard set up of the 415????
as i have lost instructions
grahame is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 03:40 AM   #9144
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: newcastle
Posts: 301
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grahame
can someone tell me what is the weight of the oil is in the standard set up of the 415????
as i have lost instructions
for the shocks sorry
grahame is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 03:55 AM   #9145
Tech Regular
 
Ballsie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Hamilton, United Kingdom
Posts: 354
Default

It's the yellow oil which I believe is #300 - can someone confirm this?
Ballsie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 04:08 AM   #9146
V12
Tech Elite
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,641
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Its #400 - yellow
__________________
Classic RC - http://classicrc.wordpress.com/
V12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 05:03 AM   #9147
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: newcastle
Posts: 301
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by V12
Its #400 - yellow
is that like 40weight
grahame is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 06:19 AM   #9148
Tech Adept
 
pookat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: u.k.
Posts: 112
Default

yep
pookat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 08:28 AM   #9149
Tech Elite
 
jeffreylin's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Traction Roll!
Posts: 2,564
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grahame
is that like 40weight
#400 Yellow is more like 30wt.
jeffreylin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 12:25 PM   #9150
Tech Adept
 
Bad Boys Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 155
Send a message via AIM to Bad Boys Racing
Default

hey, how should i file the batt holders down on my car or is it optional, i just have a funny feeling i would wreck the chassis if i tried?
Bad Boys Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TAMIYA TRF415 Xray XB8 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 32 04-04-2008 08:50 PM
Tamiya TRF415 Crashmaster R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 12-13-2006 04:48 PM
Tamiya TRF415 MS NIB koabich R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 11-11-2005 07:28 AM
F/S Tamiya TRF415 rraden R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 20 06-10-2005 09:02 PM
Tamiya Evo IV or TRF415 TheDevil Electric On-Road 23 10-15-2004 07:27 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:36 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net