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Old 04-25-2005, 08:42 AM   #8401
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My track is quite small....So I think a spool setup will be good also...
Thanks
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:50 AM   #8402
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Toe Blocks

Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Your correct, the C/A combo will give inboard toe out.
However as the arms sweep back, the toe links need to be adjusted to retain your usual level of outboard (ie overall) toe.

I believe it has something to do with putting active castor onto the car... although I'm not too sure on that part.
I just know it works (personally running D/A at the moment)

HiH
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Where you guys are all getting confused is that he's not changing from D-D to C-A, but from A-A to C-A. That's why he'll indeed have more toe-out and will need to lenghthen his steering turnbuckles to go back to a decent value of front toe.
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Old 04-25-2005, 03:54 PM   #8403
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Default Toe/CamberLinks

Thanks for the replies.

I have now changed the mount settings as suggested to D-A, will take the car to the track later on the week to try out the new settings.

Any advice for the front and rear roll centre/camber linkage settings?

Currently my car is running parallel front and angled rear, should I lengthen the front camber link so the car rolls better? If I decide to lengthen the front camber link, what can I do to compensate for the loss of the actual wheel camber? Should I add spacers between the ball nut and upperdeck? What is a preferred thickness for the spacer?

Thanks again for the help!
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Old 04-25-2005, 03:59 PM   #8404
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Default Re: Toe/CamberLinks

Quote:
Originally posted by DORIFT
Thanks for the replies.

I have now changed the mount settings as suggested to D-A, will take the car to the track later on the week to try out the new settings.

Any advice for the front and rear roll centre/camber linkage settings?

Currently my car is running parallel front and angled rear, should I lengthen the front camber link so the car rolls better? If I decide to lengthen the front camber link, what can I do to compensate for the loss of the actual wheel camber? Should I add spacers between the ball nut and upperdeck? What is a preferred thickness for the spacer?

Thanks again for the help!
Use 3mm spacer on front, 1mm on rear, and between 1.5 and 2mm camber all round.
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Old 04-25-2005, 04:07 PM   #8405
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Default Re: Toe/CamberLinks

Quote:
Originally posted by DORIFT
Thanks for the replies.

I have now changed the mount settings as suggested to D-A, will take the car to the track later on the week to try out the new settings.

Any advice for the front and rear roll centre/camber linkage settings?

Currently my car is running parallel front and angled rear, should I lengthen the front camber link so the car rolls better? If I decide to lengthen the front camber link, what can I do to compensate for the loss of the actual wheel camber? Should I add spacers between the ball nut and upperdeck? What is a preferred thickness for the spacer?

Thanks again for the help!
DORIFT -

Can't lengthen the front upper link, only the rear. You could shorten the rear if you wanted more rotation.

The roll center can be adjusted by using spacers under the inner and outer ball studs, I've seen all kinds of different setups so far. The more spacers on the inside, the lower the roll center, the more roll on that end, opposite if you space up the ball studs on the hub/carrier ball studs. Try different amounts of spacers to see what works for you.

Mike
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Old 04-25-2005, 05:43 PM   #8406
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Default Re: Re: Toe/CamberLinks

Quote:
Originally posted by SCML
DORIFT -

Can't lengthen the front upper link, only the rear. You could shorten the rear if you wanted more rotation.

The roll center can be adjusted by using spacers under the inner and outer ball studs, I've seen all kinds of different setups so far. The more spacers on the inside, the lower the roll center, the more roll on that end, opposite if you space up the ball studs on the hub/carrier ball studs. Try different amounts of spacers to see what works for you.

Mike
Thanks for the info SCML/TRF415Boy. I just want to setup the car so it can be quicker when changing directions thru the esses, as well as managing to keep the line during the sweeper that gets tighter at the end.



I have attached a photo of my local track. As you can see the right sweeper(located on the right hand side of the picture) gets tighter towards the end then a sudden change of direction to the left. I wish my car can stay close to the red/white ripple strips without loosing too much speed. The only way I can archieve this is by slowing the car down way too much for my likings. As you can see also, if I have kept my line during the sweeper, the car will then wonder off to the outside line when changing direction for the left hander followed by the sweeper.

I know by adjusting roll centre/front toe blocks really help as I can feel an immediate improvement when I switched to the B-A block from the standard A-A setup.

Due to the fact that the standard setup on the 415MS which runs 2mm/1mm spacers fron/rear respectfully for the camberlinks, I was thinking to remain those settings but to move the rear hub ball stud to one hole inside thus making the rear camber link shorter. Will this give me more improvement? or should I concerntrate on my driving rather than playing with the setups.
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Old 04-25-2005, 05:57 PM   #8407
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Where can I find that track, so I can run my car?
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:43 PM   #8408
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There was a bunch of posts regarding how to set droop on this thread...

David Jun gave some great tips...If you are still looking for info Futureal wrote an article in the newest Xtreme R/C Car mag covering droop.

----------------------------------

Anyone race foams on asphault?

Electric TC slows down a bit here in the Midwest so the tracks pretty much run "Open" rules for electrics and allow mod motors w/ foam tires....Just looking to see if anyone has any experience with that.
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:00 PM   #8409
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Default Re: Re: Re: Toe/CamberLinks

Quote:
Originally posted by DORIFT


I have attached a photo of my local track. As you can see the right sweeper(located on the right hand side of the picture) gets tighter towards the end then a sudden change of direction to the left. I wish my car can stay close to the red/white ripple strips without loosing too much speed. The only way I can archieve this is by slowing the car down way too much for my likings. As you can see also, if I have kept my line during the sweeper, the car will then wonder off to the outside line when changing direction for the left hander followed by the sweeper.

I know by adjusting roll centre/front toe blocks really help as I can feel an immediate improvement when I switched to the B-A block from the standard A-A setup.

Due to the fact that the standard setup on the 415MS which runs 2mm/1mm spacers fron/rear respectfully for the camberlinks, I was thinking to remain those settings but to move the rear hub ball stud to one hole inside thus making the rear camber link shorter. Will this give me more improvement? or should I concerntrate on my driving rather than playing with the setups.
Awesome track! Looks like I'll need to head to our NZ offices for some... err... work.

Since the turn you are talking about is decreasing radius, you probably need more constant power or off power steering. Giving the car more rear droop will give you more off power steering, but for constant power steering, you need to balance where the weight is in this situation. Shortening the rear link should give you more rotation, but will also be a little trickier to drive. I think I would start by going to a softer front sway bar, and adding a 1mm spacer to the inside front ball studs. This will allow the front end to roll more in the turn, and hopefully stay hooked up in that decreasing radius turn. It also shouldn't affect the way the car flicks back and forth in the esses too much.

However, 3 mm front spacers and 1 mm rear spacers creates quite different roll centers front to rear, and it might not work at all! I'd still give it a try though, not hard to change back, and you could always try the .5 mm spacers.

You could also give yourself a little more negative camber in the front, and less in the rear, say 2.0 up front, and 1.0 in the rear and see how that feels.

One thing I always try to do (and some people think differently about this), is to add traction to the end that needs it, instead of taking it away from the end that has it. (in your case, the front needs it, the rear has it)

Change 1 thing at a time, and run a few laps, if you get closer to the goal, great, if not, change back.

One last thing, try some Toe In on your car (with the steering links, not the blocks). From the looks of the track, you don't have many very abrupt corner entires, but lots of areas where you need to accelerate while still turning, and toe in will help this immensely. Toe Out kills mid and exit corner steering, but helps corner entry.

Mike

Last edited by SCML; 04-26-2005 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:15 PM   #8410
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Thanks for your reply. Very useful information.

You are right about the track, it consists of many corners where you will need to accelerate through them. I will definitely try the suggested method during the weekend and see how the car handles.

thanks again~
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Old 04-26-2005, 09:26 PM   #8411
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Do most of the guys running the 415 use the EVO IV suspension arms and stuff. I have a chance to buy a used 415 that was run for 3 batteries and is mint with some hopups but it still has the stock suspension. Do I really need to change it to the LW to be fast with this car?

Thanks
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Old 04-26-2005, 11:05 PM   #8412
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Do most of the guys running the 415 use the EVO IV suspension arms and stuff. I have a chance to buy a used 415 that was run for 3 batteries and is mint with some hopups but it still has the stock suspension. Do I really need to change it to the LW to be fast with this car?

Thanks
Brian
the stock suspension is plenty fast on carpet and asphault...i believe marc rh. just used the stock suspension at the LRP race and won it...i think a lot of people use stock suspension with the 1 deg rear aluminum hubs.

-------

overall the stock suspension is also much sturdier then the LW....i own both types and like the stock much better.
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Old 04-27-2005, 04:26 AM   #8413
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At the moment I prefer the stock for indoor, and the Evo4/lwt for outdoor. More to do with durability than actually being faster.

I prefer to have the tuning options that the lwt gives compared to the stock arms for outdoor, whereas indoor... well I'm not good enough to completely avoid the barriers yet

You'll still go plenty fast enough with the stock arms outdoor...
Actually tried it a little while back, and car did handle very well.

HiH
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:46 AM   #8414
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
the stock suspension is plenty fast on carpet and asphault...i believe marc rh. just used the stock suspension at the LRP race and won it...i think a lot of people use stock suspension with the 1 deg rear aluminum hubs.

-------

overall the stock suspension is also much sturdier then the LW....i own both types and like the stock much better.
Thanks. Are you running the EVO IV aluminum rear hubs or the ones that are for the O4's and TB-02? I use to have the alum ones for my EVO IV when I had a few months back.
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:47 AM   #8415
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Appreciate the insight. Didn't want to get the car and have to dump a ton of cash in it right away just to get it fast.
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