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Old 04-20-2005, 07:06 AM   #8311
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Old 04-20-2005, 07:07 AM   #8312
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Old 04-20-2005, 07:15 AM   #8313
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Quote:
Originally posted by grahame
is there some kit to hold the battery in place instead of taping it in???

i hate the current set up in regards to holding the battery
Xray battery strap, Tamiya EVO3/TB02R/EVO4 battery strap all ok. But you need to drill at least 2holes to mount it.

I'm waiting for my TB02R battery strap arrive LHS. I also tired to replace tap every two runs. Not only troublesome but also waste.
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Old 04-20-2005, 07:51 AM   #8314
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Yeh, I use the XRay Battery Strap and its AWESOME. I have yet to have a battery come out of the car and also.... it really looks like it was made for the car. You do have to modify it slightly for it to fit, but once that's done, it works great!
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:49 AM   #8315
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Originally posted by kai747
new
nice spool...which one is that?
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:55 AM   #8316
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Quote:
nice spool...which one is that?
Probably from KAI if I had to guess.

Mike, Jeff, Steve and Mr. Orange, thanks for the info on the bearings. I did leave the grease in the kit bearings per Jeff's recommendation from a while back, but they didn't seem to last any longer than the replacements that were only oiled. One car I have is using the alu hubs, the other has the plastic hubs. Seems fronts are the most common to go, and only the outer, so I figure it's the side loading from boards, other cars and dots that is doing the damage.

I'll keep replacing the bearings I guess, but I will try some high quality bearings in there and try to keep track of how many runs (crashes) they last.

Thanks again!

Mike
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Old 04-20-2005, 02:32 PM   #8317
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Just wondering how others are measuring their droop. I have my specific way, but when it comes to comparing other peoples #'s something is lost in the translation.

I use a yokomo droop gauge flush to the chassis and put the steps under the part of the susp. arm where the outer hinge pin goes thru.

Any other (better?) methods anyone care to share?

Cheerz
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Old 04-20-2005, 03:09 PM   #8318
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Default Re: batteri strap

Quote:
Originally posted by Michael_Gerner
Well i use a Xray batterie strap on mine 415. and it works great
have you got photos???
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:38 PM   #8319
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Quote:
Originally posted by Obsidian
Just wondering how others are measuring their droop. I have my specific way, but when it comes to comparing other peoples #'s something is lost in the translation.

I use a yokomo droop gauge flush to the chassis and put the steps under the part of the susp. arm where the outer hinge pin goes thru.

Any other (better?) methods anyone care to share?

Cheerz
quick method which surprisingly many use...

screw out all droop.....set ride height....then lift car so arms/wheels hang....you will notice the spring does not touch the top of the shock adjuster....dial in droop until the top of the spring just touches the bottom of the shock adjuster.

this generally works very well. i've done this running foam and rubber per the advise of many of the fast and sponsored guys.

it's a quick method if you are in a hurry and will work well.

--------

other method is dial out all droop....set ride height.....then place the 415s chassis on the ride height gauge....say you have 4.5mm of ride height and you want to run 1.5mm of droop....place the car on the 6mm flat spot on the ride height gauge....then look at eye level the wheels....dial in droop until the wheels barely touch the setup board.

these might be hard to understand with text to i will probably put some pics w/ text on my website as it relates to the 415.

http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isla/TRF_415/

I found the first method on AE's Tony Phalens website also...

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...op-Setting.jpg
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:30 PM   #8320
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
quick method which surprisingly many use...

screw out all droop.....set ride height....then lift car so arms/wheels hang....you will notice the spring does not touch the top of the shock adjuster....dial in droop until the top of the spring just touches the bottom of the shock adjuster.

this generally works very well. i've done this running foam and rubber per the advise of many of the fast and sponsored guys.

it's a quick method if you are in a hurry and will work well.

--------

other method is dial out all droop....set ride height.....then place the 415s chassis on the ride height gauge....say you have 4.5mm of ride height and you want to run 1.5mm of droop....place the car on the 6mm flat spot on the ride height gauge....then look at eye level the wheels....dial in droop until the wheels barely touch the setup board.

these might be hard to understand with text to i will probably put some pics w/ text on my website as it relates to the 415.

http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isla/TRF_415/

I found the first method on AE's Tony Phalens website also...

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...op-Setting.jpg
Not flaming but when are you planning to have this eb site up and running
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:53 PM   #8321
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Droop is one of those settings that somehow ends up being difficult to transfer from person to person because everyone seems to measure it differently. There is one method I have found to be the most consistent. This method uses the top of the wheel axle as the reference point. To set droop with this method, remove all four wheels and rest the chassis flat on your tweak board. Using a vernier caliper with a depth gauge, measure from the top of your wheels axle to the tweak board. This tends to eliminate error that would otherwise occur when changing anti-squat or anti-dive or even raising or lowering your suspension blocks. Regardless of what you adjust on your suspension, your droop reading will remain consistent this way. Its not 100% perfect because it can be affected if you make wild camber changes but for the most part its the least problematic.
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Old 04-20-2005, 06:05 PM   #8322
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Quote:
Originally posted by dawgmeat
Not flaming but when are you planning to have this eb site up and running
Its ok Dawgmeat I will flame him for you.... j/k

Yeah Nexus....you dont need to be out on the rough streets of Chi-town locking up Crack-heads and Drug Dealers....I want a 415 web site to look at when Im here at work....
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Old 04-20-2005, 07:59 PM   #8323
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Originally posted by F. Alonso
Yeh, I use the XRay Battery Strap and its AWESOME. I have yet to have a battery come out of the car and also.... it really looks like it was made for the car. You do have to modify it slightly for it to fit, but once that's done, it works great!
is that the option part for the xray T1FK05????
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:30 PM   #8324
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Default RE: DROOP!

Quote:
Originally posted by David J.
Droop is one of those settings that somehow ends up being difficult to transfer from person to person because everyone seems to measure it differently. There is one method I have found to be the most consistent. This method uses the top of the wheel axle as the reference point. To set droop with this method, remove all four wheels and rest the chassis flat on your tweak board. Using a vernier caliper with a depth gauge, measure from the top of your wheels axle to the tweak board. This tends to eliminate error that would otherwise occur when changing anti-squat or anti-dive or even raising or lowering your suspension blocks. Regardless of what you adjust on your suspension, your droop reading will remain consistent this way. Its not 100% perfect because it can be affected if you make wild camber changes but for the most part its the least problematic.
Dave,
So how do you know what your actual droop is? I've adjusted my droop using this method in order to be consistant from side to side but don't you still have to measure from some other point to get a number you can compare it to or use as a start point? For example I run 4.5mm droop in the back and 4 mm in the front so if I wanted to decrease the droop 1mm will this be consistant with the numbers I am getting from the top of the wheel axle? I hope this makes sense!
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:57 PM   #8325
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Quote:
Originally posted by Obsidian
Just wondering how others are measuring their droop. I have my specific way, but when it comes to comparing other peoples #'s something is lost in the translation.

I use a yokomo droop gauge flush to the chassis and put the steps under the part of the susp. arm where the outer hinge pin goes thru.

Any other (better?) methods anyone care to share?

Cheerz
I use exactly the same method... hence why i always quote a number (ie #4) instead of a value (ie 3mm) for droop on any setups sheets I write.

I'll always measure it with the shocks in postion, and just gently push down on the arms to take up any slop.

HiH
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