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Old 04-18-2005, 12:51 PM   #8296
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Default TRF415 Black Diff Joint - TRF414M

Another quick question re 415 diff parts. Will the stock 415 diff joints fit the ball diff assembly of the 414M? Also Are the 415 diff joints longer than the 414M & will it cause any binding w/the drive shaft's up/down movement?

Thanks again for any response.

Jun R.
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:33 PM   #8297
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Default Re: RC Maniax Spool

Quote:
Originally posted by rcmaniax
seems that the TRF spool issue is interesting for all tamiya drivers.

we just tested our light-weight spool last weekend with great success.
we tested it on a high grip and very small indoor track. the corally blades are quite durable.

so we decided to manufacture even a lighter spool (7.4 grams!). this will be available mid of week 18.

here is a pic of the prototype we tested


if you're interested in please sign HERE

we're not a big company, just some people designing some cool parts - so this item will be very limited.

hi from switzerland!
rc maniax
Your not running a sway bar in the front? Or you just took it off for the picture?
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:36 PM   #8298
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Default Re: Re: RC Maniax Spool

Quote:
Originally posted by maxepower
Your not running a sway bar in the front? Or you just took it off for the picture?
just for the pic! used the yellow one...
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:52 PM   #8299
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Default Re: Re: Re: RC Maniax Spool

Quote:
Originally posted by rcmaniax
just for the pic! used the yellow one...
I heard a lot of the pro drivers last year changed universals every run! I heard Rhinard changed out drives every run! That can get a little pricey for the average racer!
Maybe I'll try the MIP universals for testing, if not I'll just have to keep lots of spare parts handy for the drivetrain! Once the chattering starts that's when the car starts to push and no steering! When will the madness end!
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Last edited by maxepower; 04-19-2005 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:17 PM   #8300
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Default

It also helps to use a spool that uses the longer 46mm driveshafts. This puts less of an angle on the universal at full throw.
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Old 04-19-2005, 12:24 AM   #8301
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Quote:
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Sorry for my ignorance, but at the Worlds, did Rheinard just put up with the chatter, or dial his steering down, or did he use different parts to chill out the chatter a bit??

I just want the best possible spool setup in case I find a case where I want to run it. A lot of the top guys who I'm racing with are using them in their TC4s and RDXs and I'd like to try it with the 415 but I am worried a bit about the chatter issue that I had with my Evo IV previously.
The delrin outdrives on the Titanium racing spools help cusion the chattering a lot, however, even titanium racing have switched away from the delrin outdrives due to durability issues (now their spools comes with aluminum outdrives).

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Old 04-19-2005, 02:23 AM   #8302
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Default Re: TRF415 Black Diff Joint - TRF414M

Quote:
Originally posted by JRRobiso
Another quick question re 415 diff parts. Will the stock 415 diff joints fit the ball diff assembly of the 414M? Also Are the 415 diff joints longer than the 414M & will it cause any binding w/the drive shaft's up/down movement?

Thanks again for any response.

Jun R.
They won't fit, not the same width between the bearings, and not the same offset for the belts, so basically the diff pulley and the layshaft pulley will be offset, which you don't want...
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Old 04-19-2005, 10:29 AM   #8303
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Default Bearings

I've got the MS, and the outer hub/axle bearings (the 950s) get crunchy at an alarming rate. When I got my kit, I ordered a full extra set of bearings, as well as 8 950s seperately, but I've already gone through 14 bearings in the last 2 months. I race on a tight asphalt indoor track, and contact is a given, not an exception. It seems anytime I dot, or roll, at least 1 bearing is toast. The bearings I got were cheap, but they seem to be the same quality as the kit bearings.

I'm thinking about ceramic bearings for the entire car, but I don't want to be replacing those wheel bearings at that rate if they are ceramic. Do any of you use ceramic, or other high quality bearings in the outer hub, and do they withstand normal use, including crashing once in awhile without blowing out? I'm hoping to find something that will last a lot longer than the kit bearings, and also be as free as possible.

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:25 AM   #8304
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: RC Maniax Spool

Quote:
Originally posted by maxepower
I heard a lot of the pro drivers last year changed universals every run! I heard Rhinard changed out drives every run! That can get a little pricey for the average racer!
Maybe I'll try the MIP universals for testing, if not I'll just have to keep lots of spare parts handy for the drivetrain! Once the chattering starts that's when the car starts to push and no steering! When will the madness end!
I don't know. Maybe he was changing out because the parts were free to him and he could afford that luxery. Last year at Reedy I used Speedtech spool, steel dogbones and titanium axles in my Cuda with no wear problems or noticable chatter. I even used the same parts for the rest of the year without any problems. The key is to use Tamiya grease always where the bone goes into the spool.
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:37 AM   #8305
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Default Re: Bearings

Quote:
Originally posted by SCML
I've got the MS, and the outer hub/axle bearings (the 950s) get crunchy at an alarming rate. When I got my kit, I ordered a full extra set of bearings, as well as 8 950s seperately, but I've already gone through 14 bearings in the last 2 months. I race on a tight asphalt indoor track, and contact is a given, not an exception. It seems anytime I dot, or roll, at least 1 bearing is toast. The bearings I got were cheap, but they seem to be the same quality as the kit bearings.

I'm thinking about ceramic bearings for the entire car, but I don't want to be replacing those wheel bearings at that rate if they are ceramic. Do any of you use ceramic, or other high quality bearings in the outer hub, and do they withstand normal use, including crashing once in awhile without blowing out? I'm hoping to find something that will last a lot longer than the kit bearings, and also be as free as possible.

Thanks,

Mike
SoCal Track is just expensive. That's why I dont go that much. I also wouldn't waste a good set of ceramics there if they're just gonna get knocked out anyway. Ceramics aren't that durable anyways.
On my 415 i'm using ceramics right now everywhere but in the hubs.
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Old 04-19-2005, 09:32 PM   #8306
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Default Re: Bearings

Quote:
Originally posted by SCML
I've got the MS, and the outer hub/axle bearings (the 950s) get crunchy at an alarming rate. When I got my kit, I ordered a full extra set of bearings, as well as 8 950s seperately, but I've already gone through 14 bearings in the last 2 months. I race on a tight asphalt indoor track, and contact is a given, not an exception. It seems anytime I dot, or roll, at least 1 bearing is toast. The bearings I got were cheap, but they seem to be the same quality as the kit bearings.

I'm thinking about ceramic bearings for the entire car, but I don't want to be replacing those wheel bearings at that rate if they are ceramic. Do any of you use ceramic, or other high quality bearings in the outer hub, and do they withstand normal use, including crashing once in awhile without blowing out? I'm hoping to find something that will last a lot longer than the kit bearings, and also be as free as possible.

Thanks,

Mike
Ceramics don't last longer in the hubs, they are just more expensive to replace. I had all ceramics in my MS before too but replaced the ones in the hubs to metal ones as they wear off. I haven't run electric for a while but I used to run this car at SoCal twice a week.
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Old 04-20-2005, 12:12 AM   #8307
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Default Re: Bearings

Quote:
Originally posted by SCML
I've got the MS, and the outer hub/axle bearings (the 950s) get crunchy at an alarming rate. When I got my kit, I ordered a full extra set of bearings, as well as 8 950s seperately, but I've already gone through 14 bearings in the last 2 months. I race on a tight asphalt indoor track, and contact is a given, not an exception. It seems anytime I dot, or roll, at least 1 bearing is toast. The bearings I got were cheap, but they seem to be the same quality as the kit bearings.

I'm thinking about ceramic bearings for the entire car, but I don't want to be replacing those wheel bearings at that rate if they are ceramic. Do any of you use ceramic, or other high quality bearings in the outer hub, and do they withstand normal use, including crashing once in awhile without blowing out? I'm hoping to find something that will last a lot longer than the kit bearings, and also be as free as possible.

Thanks,

Mike
Hi Mike,

Actually I had our ceramic bearings in the hubs of my TRF415 ever since I built the car back in last June. This was per suggestion by David Jun over at Tamiya TRF team, he says that a tighter tolerance better quality bearing will help reduce some of the slop in the hub carrier (and it did) the only thing I didn't do to these bearings that I normally do to my other bearings is that I didn't blow out the thicker grease inside. This helps the bearing last a lot longer, and it doesn't seem like it created any excess drag in the drivetrain. I've since sold the car to another customer on r/c tech and he is still running the same set of bearings (car now being 10 months old)

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Last edited by SpeedTech; 04-20-2005 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 04-20-2005, 01:19 AM   #8308
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@SCML
If you use aluhubs in the rear instead of the plastic ones the bearings will hold up alot better. The stockhubs flex too much which causes the bearings to fail. The frontbearings holds up much better due to less flex.
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Old 04-20-2005, 01:37 AM   #8309
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is there some kit to hold the battery in place instead of taping it in???

i hate the current set up in regards to holding the battery
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Old 04-20-2005, 07:01 AM   #8310
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Default batteri strap

Well i use a Xray batterie strap on mine 415. and it works great
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