Like Tree2Likes

Tamiya TRF415

Reply

Old 03-17-2005, 01:25 PM
  #7876  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 7,684
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by TryHard
Right, First chart is the angle you have inboard, or for when using 0deg rear hubs.

2nd one is for the stock suspension 2 deg rear hubs, gives the total rear toe angle.

3rd is for the 1deg rear hubs (option on stock suspension, std with LWT).

4th is for the front INBOARD toe, much like the first. The only reason I say inboard, is because you can set the total (ie outboard) with the steering links

Hope it helps
Ed

Ed.

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm pretty familiar with setting up TCs but just have to get used to the width/toe settings that these Tamiya blocks give.

You chart is very helpful.
Nexus is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 01:25 PM
  #7877  
Tech Master
 
koabich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 1,359
Default

Actually, the D/D block combination will widen the car causing him to possibly need longer dog bones. This car is definately wider than 190mm though. Assuming he is running the stock 415 outdrives, running an A front - rear block will bring his car back into legal territory and will let him run the 42mm dogbones while adding some inboard toe-out.
koabich is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 01:31 PM
  #7878  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 1,244
Default Re: Need more turn-in

Originally posted by over gear
I have been testing the 415MS at the Tamiya track for a couple of times... the car seems to have a MAJOR push into corners... the mid corner steering is good with the C/A front bridge combo....

How to get more initial turn-in? I'm running 19T motor with sorex 36R tires. the car is on the stock setup except the C/A front combo, red front and rear swaybar and I put the front shock to the outter hole on the shock tower to get more steering...
hi,first of all if you want more turn in are you running a one way,this is good for turn in.

2nd try shortening the wheelbase this will help the car rotate in corners.
3 put more droop on the back
4go to 2 degrees caster blocks
5keep to the outer hole on the front shock tower
6lay the rear shocks down on the shock tower ie 2nd hole in
this should work ok.
trf racer is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 01:33 PM
  #7879  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 7,684
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by koabich
Actually, the D/D block combination will widen the car causing him to possibly need longer dog bones. This car is definately wider than 190mm though. Assuming he is running the stock 415 outdrives, running an A front - rear block will bring his car back into legal territory and will let him run the 42mm dogbones while adding some inboard toe-out.

Is the D/D block combo up front wider then 190mm? Just wondering because it's what Marc Rheinard ran at teh LRP TCM race according to his setup sheet.

Are the stock 415 rear hubs and front c-hubs marked so you can tell which ones you have....I don't see any.
Nexus is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 01:40 PM
  #7880  
Tech Adept
 
SCML's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 197
Default

Originally posted by Nexus
OK....looking at the spreadsheet he made...if someone can help out with this.


Is the 1st chart for stock rear suspension using stock rear hubs to figure rear toe?

and

Is the 4th chart for stock suspension to figure out inboard front toe?


Thanks for any help.
I believe the first chart is for the front or rear end, no special calculations for hubs. I prefer to think about it this way. The others just add in the hub deg.

Last chart is to setup inboard toe out, or sweep, but nothing that couldn't be sorted with the first chart.

Mike


<dang, just a little late finishing this response... darn work..>
SCML is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 01:49 PM
  #7881  
Tech Addict
 
Eirik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 627
Default

Nexus,

The setup you redesigned in photoshop is what I normally use, always works really good!!
D-D blocks up front are perfect, not too wide at all with the stock arms.....

For more steering I use D-A blocks up front and move the front arms all the way forward.
For less steering I lay the rear shocks inn one hole!

The front C-Hubs are 4deg, the plastic rear hubs that comes with the car is 2deg, but I strongly recomend the 1deg alu hubs!!

How was the foams working??
Eirik is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 02:47 PM
  #7882  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 7,684
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Eirik.

The inserts worked well on my Pro4....just need to find them here locally.

-----------------

TRF Racing Information Center
http://tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=79

I hope they put some kind of chart to clarify all the different blocks available for the 415 and how they effect the car....toe, width, ect.

With the Pro 4 HPI provided a few pages of setup tips that explain the adjustments.

Anybody hear anything further on a front diff made by Tamiya...just wondering.

If anyone has one of the yokomo/tamiya front diffs they want to sell please contact me.
Nexus is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 03:16 PM
  #7883  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
 
Turbonium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

these are the parts you need to build it up, if no one wants ta sell ya one:
TRF415 Front Diff Parts (TRF415 Thread's Most FAQ)
YOKOMO ZS-501 Diff Joints
YOKOMO ZS-506 Diff Rings
YOKOMO ZS-507 Diff Thrust Bearing Set
YOKOMO ZS-508 Diff Adjusting Kit
YOKOMO ZC-S100 Shim Kit (10.0mm diam) 20 pieces
(2) 5x8mm bearings
TAMIYA 51055 415 Diff Pulley
TAMIYA 53379 3mm Lighweight Diff ball set or any 3mm diff ball


you can actually use either the Yokomo or Tamiya diff rings, as either will fit on the Yokomo diff halves...
Turbonium is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 08:00 PM
  #7884  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
dawgmeat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,573
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default 2005 indoor Nats

OK there are 4 415's at the entire race so it will be tuff, but my car is dialed for now. With my Kia upper and lower chassis my car is postin' 3.2 lbs. on the dot
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF415-dsc00628.jpg  
dawgmeat is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 08:51 PM
  #7885  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Stokes, NC
Posts: 6,676
Trader Rating: 76 (100%+)
Default Re: 2005 indoor Nats

Originally posted by dawgmeat
OK there are 4 415's at the entire race so it will be tuff, but my car is dialed for now. With my Kia upper and lower chassis my car is postin' 3.2 lbs. on the dot
I am surprised that ugly weighs in that light!
Raul Garcia is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2005, 10:23 PM
  #7886  
Tech Addict
 
KDagh1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 520
Default

Nexus,

How did the race at RSJ's go on Wed. night? Do you have a good rubber / carpet set-up that you can help me out with? I have the MS, so it may not be totally applicable, but I'll do the best I can with any set-up info you may have.

Khal
KDagh1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2005, 03:51 AM
  #7887  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 7,684
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by KDagh1
Nexus,

How did the race at RSJ's go on Wed. night? Do you have a good rubber / carpet set-up that you can help me out with? I have the MS, so it may not be totally applicable, but I'll do the best I can with any set-up info you may have.

Khal
kahl.

ran my pro4 that night....i'm still working on the 415. i'll probably test it out next weekend at AJ's or RSJ.

-----------------------------------------------------

What are most people running up front for cvds....the blue aluminum or black steel ones?

Are people running the black because they are stronger since the car uses a oneway?

Last edited by Nexus; 03-18-2005 at 11:21 AM.
Nexus is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2005, 12:09 PM
  #7888  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
maxepower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Aliso Viejo, Calif.
Posts: 1,640
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Randy C.

Hey Randy,
Did you get my e-mail? If not, just wanted to say thanks!
See ya soon!
Max
maxepower is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2005, 12:33 PM
  #7889  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
maxepower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Aliso Viejo, Calif.
Posts: 1,640
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Question on ROAR Rules?

I'm trying to set-up my body and my (415)chassis weight of the car. I believe the weight is under and the body is too high.
I have the rules but can't figure what the height of the top of the body and the wing should be. I'd like to make a fixture to try and set the propere height but the height amount doesn't seem correct.
I say the height or dimension "C" is 190 mm. I dont think that right. Can somebody clear things up for me. Try to prepare for Reedy if I can get in!
maxepower is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2005, 12:36 PM
  #7890  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
 
Turbonium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

im not sure of the overall body height, but the wing is usually made to be no taller than the roofline of the car. you can use a level, set it on the roof and wing, and make sure it is lower.

almost forgot, this is as the body is installed on the chassis, ready to race....
Turbonium is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service