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Old 03-17-2005, 01:25 PM   #7876
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Right, First chart is the angle you have inboard, or for when using 0deg rear hubs.

2nd one is for the stock suspension 2 deg rear hubs, gives the total rear toe angle.

3rd is for the 1deg rear hubs (option on stock suspension, std with LWT).

4th is for the front INBOARD toe, much like the first. The only reason I say inboard, is because you can set the total (ie outboard) with the steering links

Hope it helps
Ed

Ed.

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm pretty familiar with setting up TCs but just have to get used to the width/toe settings that these Tamiya blocks give.

You chart is very helpful.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:25 PM   #7877
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Actually, the D/D block combination will widen the car causing him to possibly need longer dog bones. This car is definately wider than 190mm though. Assuming he is running the stock 415 outdrives, running an A front - rear block will bring his car back into legal territory and will let him run the 42mm dogbones while adding some inboard toe-out.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:31 PM   #7878
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Default Re: Need more turn-in

Quote:
Originally posted by over gear
I have been testing the 415MS at the Tamiya track for a couple of times... the car seems to have a MAJOR push into corners... the mid corner steering is good with the C/A front bridge combo....

How to get more initial turn-in? I'm running 19T motor with sorex 36R tires. the car is on the stock setup except the C/A front combo, red front and rear swaybar and I put the front shock to the outter hole on the shock tower to get more steering...
hi,first of all if you want more turn in are you running a one way,this is good for turn in.

2nd try shortening the wheelbase this will help the car rotate in corners.
3 put more droop on the back
4go to 2 degrees caster blocks
5keep to the outer hole on the front shock tower
6lay the rear shocks down on the shock tower ie 2nd hole in
this should work ok.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:33 PM   #7879
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Quote:
Originally posted by koabich
Actually, the D/D block combination will widen the car causing him to possibly need longer dog bones. This car is definately wider than 190mm though. Assuming he is running the stock 415 outdrives, running an A front - rear block will bring his car back into legal territory and will let him run the 42mm dogbones while adding some inboard toe-out.

Is the D/D block combo up front wider then 190mm? Just wondering because it's what Marc Rheinard ran at teh LRP TCM race according to his setup sheet.

Are the stock 415 rear hubs and front c-hubs marked so you can tell which ones you have....I don't see any.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:40 PM   #7880
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
OK....looking at the spreadsheet he made...if someone can help out with this.


Is the 1st chart for stock rear suspension using stock rear hubs to figure rear toe?

and

Is the 4th chart for stock suspension to figure out inboard front toe?


Thanks for any help.
I believe the first chart is for the front or rear end, no special calculations for hubs. I prefer to think about it this way. The others just add in the hub deg.

Last chart is to setup inboard toe out, or sweep, but nothing that couldn't be sorted with the first chart.

Mike


<dang, just a little late finishing this response... darn work..>
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:49 PM   #7881
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Nexus,

The setup you redesigned in photoshop is what I normally use, always works really good!!
D-D blocks up front are perfect, not too wide at all with the stock arms.....

For more steering I use D-A blocks up front and move the front arms all the way forward.
For less steering I lay the rear shocks inn one hole!

The front C-Hubs are 4deg, the plastic rear hubs that comes with the car is 2deg, but I strongly recomend the 1deg alu hubs!!

How was the foams working??
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Old 03-17-2005, 02:47 PM   #7882
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Eirik.

The inserts worked well on my Pro4....just need to find them here locally.

-----------------

TRF Racing Information Center
http://tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=79

I hope they put some kind of chart to clarify all the different blocks available for the 415 and how they effect the car....toe, width, ect.

With the Pro 4 HPI provided a few pages of setup tips that explain the adjustments.

Anybody hear anything further on a front diff made by Tamiya...just wondering.

If anyone has one of the yokomo/tamiya front diffs they want to sell please contact me.
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Old 03-17-2005, 03:16 PM   #7883
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these are the parts you need to build it up, if no one wants ta sell ya one:
TRF415 Front Diff Parts (TRF415 Thread's Most FAQ)
YOKOMO ZS-501 Diff Joints
YOKOMO ZS-506 Diff Rings
YOKOMO ZS-507 Diff Thrust Bearing Set
YOKOMO ZS-508 Diff Adjusting Kit
YOKOMO ZC-S100 Shim Kit (10.0mm diam) 20 pieces
(2) 5x8mm bearings
TAMIYA 51055 415 Diff Pulley
TAMIYA 53379 3mm Lighweight Diff ball set or any 3mm diff ball


you can actually use either the Yokomo or Tamiya diff rings, as either will fit on the Yokomo diff halves...
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Old 03-17-2005, 08:00 PM   #7884
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Default 2005 indoor Nats

OK there are 4 415's at the entire race so it will be tuff, but my car is dialed for now. With my Kia upper and lower chassis my car is postin' 3.2 lbs. on the dot
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Old 03-17-2005, 08:51 PM   #7885
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Default Re: 2005 indoor Nats

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Originally posted by dawgmeat
OK there are 4 415's at the entire race so it will be tuff, but my car is dialed for now. With my Kia upper and lower chassis my car is postin' 3.2 lbs. on the dot
I am surprised that ugly weighs in that light!
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Old 03-17-2005, 10:23 PM   #7886
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Nexus,

How did the race at RSJ's go on Wed. night? Do you have a good rubber / carpet set-up that you can help me out with? I have the MS, so it may not be totally applicable, but I'll do the best I can with any set-up info you may have.

Khal
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Old 03-18-2005, 03:51 AM   #7887
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Quote:
Originally posted by KDagh1
Nexus,

How did the race at RSJ's go on Wed. night? Do you have a good rubber / carpet set-up that you can help me out with? I have the MS, so it may not be totally applicable, but I'll do the best I can with any set-up info you may have.

Khal
kahl.

ran my pro4 that night....i'm still working on the 415. i'll probably test it out next weekend at AJ's or RSJ.

-----------------------------------------------------

What are most people running up front for cvds....the blue aluminum or black steel ones?

Are people running the black because they are stronger since the car uses a oneway?
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Last edited by Nexus; 03-18-2005 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:09 PM   #7888
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Default Randy C.

Hey Randy,
Did you get my e-mail? If not, just wanted to say thanks!
See ya soon!
Max
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:33 PM   #7889
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Default Question on ROAR Rules?

I'm trying to set-up my body and my (415)chassis weight of the car. I believe the weight is under and the body is too high.
I have the rules but can't figure what the height of the top of the body and the wing should be. I'd like to make a fixture to try and set the propere height but the height amount doesn't seem correct.
I say the height or dimension "C" is 190 mm. I dont think that right. Can somebody clear things up for me. Try to prepare for Reedy if I can get in!
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:36 PM   #7890
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im not sure of the overall body height, but the wing is usually made to be no taller than the roofline of the car. you can use a level, set it on the roof and wing, and make sure it is lower.

almost forgot, this is as the body is installed on the chassis, ready to race....
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