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Tamiya TRF415

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Old 03-04-2005, 03:24 PM
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Hi Korey,

The play I'm referring to is not the axial direction, but more in the radial direction. Seems like the housing for the bearing in the upright has a larger diameter than the bearing itself.

R
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Old 03-04-2005, 10:07 PM
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ooooooooh. Maybe take a q tip and put some glu on it. Then swab the inside of the carrerier where the bearuing sits. Then let that dry, it should give a tigher fit......

-Korey
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Old 03-05-2005, 08:15 AM
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Default axle slop

I have had the same problem with slop in the hub carrier to bearings. I am going to try and reamove it too. Shims wont do it... Anyone?
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Old 03-05-2005, 08:52 AM
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Default Re: axle slop

Originally posted by Raul Garcia
I have had the same problem with slop in the hub carrier to bearings. I am going to try and reamove it too. Shims wont do it... Anyone?
I run the 0' alloy hubs , the combination of the new hubs and different bearings has helped eliminate a good percentage of the slop.
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Old 03-05-2005, 11:23 AM
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Default Battery mounting

Has anybody here had any problems with the battery coming out when taped in? I have not built my car yet, but on my EVO III, I always had trouble running with tape as the battery would get loose and shift in the chassis. I do NOT want that to happen with this car. Any advice?

Khal
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Old 03-05-2005, 12:19 PM
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Default Re: Battery mounting

Originally posted by KDagh1
Has anybody here had any problems with the battery coming out when taped in? I have not built my car yet, but on my EVO III, I always had trouble running with tape as the battery would get loose and shift in the chassis. I do NOT want that to happen with this car. Any advice?

Khal
if you have filed & used CA on the slots you should not have a problem. I have also had good luck with the Xenon tape at Speetech.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...nid=395&id=836

hope this helps
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Old 03-05-2005, 12:27 PM
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Blue Sky-- Another method that you can use besides Johnny's $$$ option is to use Thread lock. I like the Tamiya because it is thicker than any of the usual suspects and does not run or pool in the hub.
As for method apply a thin bead around the outer diameter of both bearings then set into place with the usual shims on the axles let them set for about an hour and you should find most if not all the slop taken out. This works with both the alum and the stock graphite rear hubs.
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Old 03-05-2005, 12:29 PM
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Originally posted by Difuser
Blue Sky-- Another method that you can use besides Johnny's $$$ option is to use Thread lock. I like the Tamiya because it is thicker than any of the usual suspects and does not run or pool in the hub.
As for method apply a thin bead around the outer diameter of both bearings then set into place with the usual shims on the axles let them set for about an hour and you should find most if not all the slop taken out. This works with both the alum and the stock graphite rear hubs.
Thanks I'll give that a shot.
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Old 03-05-2005, 01:01 PM
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madjack,

Thanks for the tip. On my evo iii, I did file the slots and i was using CA, but I'll try again on the 415.

Khal
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Old 03-05-2005, 02:29 PM
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Huy guys,
thank for the tips rocky5
nice website tryhard


I've got a another questiono you think that it is essential to roll with the light wheigt suspension kit in exterior track?

thank you
ciao
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Old 03-05-2005, 05:25 PM
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Well Ed, it was pointless trying to keep that one quiet then!
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Old 03-05-2005, 08:16 PM
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Randy Caster

YGPM!
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Old 03-06-2005, 11:57 AM
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Originally posted by pookat
Well Ed, it was pointless trying to keep that one quiet then!
I assume your refering to a certain Mr Spashett...

I tried... but as the news is out now, I guess there's no problem talking about it.
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Old 03-06-2005, 12:21 PM
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Originally posted by KDagh1
madjack,

Thanks for the tip. On my evo iii, I did file the slots and i was using CA, but I'll try again on the 415.

Khal
I still eject a pack from time to time too. What I do is in addition to the normal tape method, I also come up and over the side of the pack with 3 strips over each battery bar as well. Works well, I just go thru tape faster.
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Old 03-06-2005, 01:46 PM
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The 415 was the first car that I ever had to use strapping tape for. At first the tape kept breaking causing my batteries to fly. Then i realized that i didn't file the slot where the tape runs through the chassis. After doing that, the tape no longer broke but i was still loosing batteries.
I have currently resolved the problem and have not lost a battery in a long time. I actually like using stapiing tape now as it is lighter than using a battery brace and posts.
I make sure i use good quality tape...tape ment for this application. I also use more tape than most making sure that when the tape comes out of the chassis and over the first cell, it is long enough to reach the last cell in the pack. The big thing that i have found is that the batteries do not always lay flat on the chassis. Using discharge tray's and handling them can cause them to "warp" or no longer be flat (lay your packs on a table and look at them..you may ber suprised). When taping my batteries I make sure that I press all the cells to the chassis so the battery is flat. Once the battery is taped down, there shoul be no air between the individual cells and the chassis. There should be no play whatsoever in the pack.
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