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Old 03-03-2005, 12:15 AM   #7636
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Originally posted by TryHard
[B]Hi, glad you like it

I think I've actually removed the Carpet base setup from the site now however... whoops.

BUT....the BRM Round 1 setup, is as close as damm it too the base. It used the Lightweight arms, and one-ways. Car deffiently felt very quick with that one on, but recently I've been using a spool, so I've been trying to get a set-up for that.



Your site is very helpful for those of us new to the chassis. The only changes I made were to lay down the front shocks 1 hole on top and I'm using blue assosiated springs in front and silvers in the rear. Also the yellow sway bar in front. This is with the LWR susp. and MS towers on the 3mm chassis. Car has super turn-in and high speed steering. Feels like my 8th scale, just not going 60.
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Old 03-03-2005, 01:50 AM   #7637
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Originally posted by TRAJ
Nice pics tryhard



I was wondering if poeple have stripped their Screwpins that hold the hub carriers?

Ive stripped my rear one and have no clue how to get it out and replace it.

Any tips?

Thanks
probably the easiest way is to get a small pin and push from oneside while trying to slowly undo the grub screw from the right side.
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Old 03-03-2005, 06:50 AM   #7638
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Thank You, Thank You!!!!!!!
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:28 AM   #7639
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Originally posted by TRAJ
Nice pics tryhard



I was wondering if poeple have stripped their Screwpins that hold the hub carriers?

Ive stripped my rear one and have no clue how to get it out and replace it.

Any tips?

Thanks
I havenít actually tried this particular tip Iím suggesting but I would get one of those 1.5mm allen wrenches that come with Tamiya kits (any Tamiya enthusiast has a ton of them). Then JB weld it into the stripped screw pin and let it dry for 24 hours and then slowly unthread it. The most common cause of stripping this screw is tightening too quickly during the initial threading into the arm. Good luck.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:29 AM   #7640
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Hello,

I need some help to understand what is Rebound stroke on the 415 setup sheet.
According to the manual rebound stroke=Droop.

I saw Maezumi's setup on rczone.net. He sets rebound stroke at 3 front and 3 rear. Does it mean that he uses 3mm for droop (with a droop gauge)?

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:42 AM   #7641
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hugo
Hello,

I need some help to understand what is Rebound stroke on the 415 setup sheet.
According to the manual rebound stroke=Droop.

I saw Maezumi's setup on rczone.net. He sets rebound stroke at 3 front and 3 rear. Does it mean that he uses 3mm for droop (with a droop gauge)?

Thanks in advance for your help.
If I'm not mistaken, rebound refers to the way the piston comes bck when you push it to the max and release it (that's with no spring of course). However, I have no idea what 3mm refers to (3mm between full push and rebound position or 3mm between full length and rebound position).
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:45 AM   #7642
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Same for me TRF415boy but when you read the manual of the 415 page 21 they explain it in a different way.

So the big question what is 3mm rebound stroke according to the manual?
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:55 AM   #7643
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hugo
Same for me TRF415boy but when you read the manual of the 415 page 21 they explain it in a different way.

So the big question what is 3mm rebound stroke according to the manual?
Fair enough. Taken this way, it means that the chassis have 3mm uptravel from rest (ride height) to max ride height (when you lift the chassis until the tyres barely touch the ground).
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:13 PM   #7644
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Fair enough. Taken this way, it means that the chassis have 3mm uptravel from rest (ride height) to max ride height (when you lift the chassis until the tyres barely touch the ground).
Thanks a lot for the explanation TRF415boy.
I appreciate a lot!!!!!!!!!!!
I'll try his setup this weekend.
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:18 PM   #7645
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Quote:
Originally posted by David J.
I havenít actually tried this particular tip Iím suggesting but I would get one of those 1.5mm allen wrenches that come with Tamiya kits (any Tamiya enthusiast has a ton of them). Then JB weld it into the stripped screw pin and let it dry for 24 hours and then slowly unthread it. The most common cause of stripping this screw is tightening too quickly during the initial threading into the arm. Good luck.
That's a great tip. You should send that one to the car mags.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:08 PM   #7646
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Fair enough. Taken this way, it means that the chassis have 3mm uptravel from rest (ride height) to max ride height (when you lift the chassis until the tyres barely touch the ground).
tot that would be droop???
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:10 PM   #7647
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Anyone know the exact number of Tamiya yellow spring? Near 17lbs/in?

--
edit:
OM.. TryHard page has the info. 13.33lbs/in. THANK U Tryhard!

Last edited by ttso; 03-03-2005 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:28 AM   #7648
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
Anyone know the exact number of Tamiya yellow spring? Near 17lbs/in?

--
edit:
OM.. TryHard page has the info. 13.33lbs/in. THANK U Tryhard!
They are 13.33
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:14 AM   #7649
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windtalkers
tot that would be droop???
Yes it is, but while droop can also be expressed by a measure on a droop gauge, rebound refers specifically to what I've mentionned.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:55 AM   #7650
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
Anyone know the exact number of Tamiya yellow spring? Near 17lbs/in?

--
edit:
OM.. TryHard page has the info. 13.33lbs/in. THANK U Tryhard!
No prob, it's what it's there for. BTW I've recently added in the HPI springs to that chart as well.

Later
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