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Old 01-17-2005, 01:09 PM   #6556
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Originally posted by Neil Rabara
The trip to Japan pretty much solidified my choice. I have been thinking about it since the Tamiya Nats, but haven't decided until I got back from the land of soapies.
Wow...Neil gonna be fasssssst now
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Old 01-17-2005, 06:10 PM   #6557
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Default TRF415 2.5 mm and 3 mm chassis

I know this was discussed before in this threds, but couldn't find which page it was. So, I will ask here again. If someone can tell me the link to the page or quick answer to my question, it would be great!!

In what situation, should I use the 2.5 mm chassis and 3 mm chassis? And why? I heard something like 2.5 mm better for carpet (I could be wrong).

Thanks.
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Old 01-17-2005, 06:23 PM   #6558
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The 3mm chassis should be better for carpet. Mainly because it is more rigid and that is what you want on carpet. The 2.5 mm chassis would be sweet on asphalt because it will let the car flex a bit more and gain traction.

-Korey
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Old 01-17-2005, 06:32 PM   #6559
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Thanks Koery!!
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Old 01-17-2005, 07:03 PM   #6560
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No prob
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Old 01-17-2005, 07:37 PM   #6561
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So does anyone know what is included in the world champ parts kit in exact quantities?

-Korey
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Old 01-17-2005, 07:59 PM   #6562
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0 degree aluminum hub carriers, locked center pulley, 1XA, 1XB, 1XC, 1XD blocks, spacers, ball nuts, and necissary hardware.
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Old 01-17-2005, 08:00 PM   #6563
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
The 3mm chassis should be better for carpet. Mainly because it is more rigid and that is what you want on carpet. The 2.5 mm chassis would be sweet on asphalt because it will let the car flex a bit more and gain traction.

-Korey
Hey Korey, I contacted the guys at BMI about this one, but maybe you could be an echo, I really want a 2mm chassis for the MS, maybe you could bring it up again to em..
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Old 01-17-2005, 08:15 PM   #6564
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It's been an idea that has been thrown around a few times. I'm still working on it!!!!! We just need mroe people to request it!

-Korey
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Old 01-17-2005, 09:16 PM   #6565
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a bro needs help here with 415 i read somewhere that anti-dive & anti-squat are both adjusted via placing shims under the block. just what thickness of the shim will produce what degree of those antis ...thanks
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Old 01-17-2005, 09:47 PM   #6566
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dragonfire
I played with the torque rods heaps when I had my 04r. You could never get full sus travel from full droop to level with lower deck without binding. Removing them improved the car in many was but best was that camber changes were very quick and hassle free.
I've never had a problem with torque rods on my TA04R... and I took that car to several A main finishes in 2002-2003 as well as club Stock champion in 2003

It does take a LOT of fiddling to stop them binding but I was able to get full USEABLE suspension travel ... and once I was used to what needed doing, camber changes never took that long either

I should be getting my 415MS in about a week and I will be trying torque rods if they can be fitted... but not until I've actually raced it etc
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Old 01-17-2005, 10:59 PM   #6567
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I just rebuilt my diff and noticed considerable wear on the delrin diff outdrives. I never had this problem with the stock plastic ones. Anyone else have the the same problem?
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Old 01-17-2005, 11:30 PM   #6568
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I just rebuilt my diff and noticed considerable wear on the delrin diff outdrives. I never had this problem with the stock plastic ones. Anyone else have the the same problem?
Yes the wear on the outdrives is atrocious, i added Xray blades to my car recently and so far things have been going well. You need to dremel the diff slot wider to allow for the width of the blade, a flat cutting disk did this easily just go slow until thet are wide enough, the xray blade need a little bit of modification as well as they are "Taller" than the tamiya driveshafts, put them on the dogbone, squeeze the ends with a pair of pliers, and hit the connecting piece of the blade with a flame from a lighter, this will shape the blade so that it fits snugly.

so far zero wear on the outdrives or the blade.
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Old 01-18-2005, 12:48 AM   #6569
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I just rebuilt my diff and noticed considerable wear on the delrin diff outdrives. I never had this problem with the stock plastic ones. Anyone else have the the same problem?
Yes, they suck, lol.
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Old 01-18-2005, 01:21 AM   #6570
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Quote:
Originally posted by KoE
a bro needs help here with 415 i read somewhere that anti-dive & anti-squat are both adjusted via placing shims under the block. just what thickness of the shim will produce what degree of those antis ...thanks
If I remember correctly, with my Yokomo SD, we used 1 "notched" shim that came with the kit to get 1 degree of kickup or anti squat or whatever. Each shim was about 0.85mm thick. So with the Tamiya cars, I'd just use the 0.7mm shims til I got the handling I was looking for.
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