Tamiya TRF415
#6256
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Speaking of bearings, I received a spray lubricant for bearings from the Tamiya worlds. The stuff looks and is very light, haven't run the car yet to see if the oil breaks down.
Speaking of bearings, I received a spray lubricant for bearings from the Tamiya worlds. The stuff looks and is very light, haven't run the car yet to see if the oil breaks down.
#6257
Originally posted by Randy Caster
I think the problem is coming from impacts on the track, the shock sent back through the drivetrain just ends up flipping the belt.
I guess it could also be a bad mold on the belts or something, maybe the fibers arent straight through the belt, that may cause the problem.
I have yet to flip a white belt, and all I run is a 6 turn motor, so maybe I have just gotten lucky.
I think the problem is coming from impacts on the track, the shock sent back through the drivetrain just ends up flipping the belt.
I guess it could also be a bad mold on the belts or something, maybe the fibers arent straight through the belt, that may cause the problem.
I have yet to flip a white belt, and all I run is a 6 turn motor, so maybe I have just gotten lucky.
I run my belts at.....
Stock indoors -1 -1
Stock outdoors -2 -2
19t indoors +1 +1
19t outdoors 0 0
Mod indoors +2 +2
Mod outdoors not done that yet but i rekon id stay with +2+2 just to be safe
So far ive only stripped 1 bets an that was wen i accidentally ran +1+1 in mod indoors
#6258
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Is it something like WD-40 that you'd just spray on the bearings? You dont have a part # for it do you? Seems like most of Tamiya's lubricants and greases are high quality...
Is it something like WD-40 that you'd just spray on the bearings? You dont have a part # for it do you? Seems like most of Tamiya's lubricants and greases are high quality...
#6259
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I tried Acer but their bearing came with rubber seal that could rub against the shim between the bearing and the wheel hex. The RC4Less bearings also are of a better grade. Never tried Boca so I don't know. I don't remember how much was the set but it was $100 or less.
I tried Acer but their bearing came with rubber seal that could rub against the shim between the bearing and the wheel hex. The RC4Less bearings also are of a better grade. Never tried Boca so I don't know. I don't remember how much was the set but it was $100 or less.
Second, there will be no issue of interferance or increased friction due to the seals.
These are basically perfect bearings. They might seem a little tight upon breakin (no tighter than any stock bearing) but once they break in nothing can touch them and they will last you forever. I ran a set in my TC3 for three years and never had to replace one of them. I only cleaned them twice a season and that was more than was necessary (yes the seals are that good!)
If you don't go with the Acer's visit SpeedTech Rc and go for the Yokomo Ceramics!
#6260
Originally posted by koabich
Just wanted to reply to this. First of all RC4Less bearings are NOT of a better grade than Acer Ceramics. Acer Ceramic bearings are made to tighter tolerances. Contrary to popular belief the lower the Grade number a ball is, the rounder and smoother it is.
Second, there will be no issue of interferance or increased friction due to the seals.
These are basically perfect bearings. They might seem a little tight upon breakin (no tighter than any stock bearing) but once they break in nothing can touch them and they will last you forever. I ran a set in my TC3 for three years and never had to replace one of them. I only cleaned them twice a season and that was more than was necessary (yes the seals are that good!)
If you don't go with the Acer's visit SpeedTech Rc and go for the Yokomo Ceramics!
Just wanted to reply to this. First of all RC4Less bearings are NOT of a better grade than Acer Ceramics. Acer Ceramic bearings are made to tighter tolerances. Contrary to popular belief the lower the Grade number a ball is, the rounder and smoother it is.
Second, there will be no issue of interferance or increased friction due to the seals.
These are basically perfect bearings. They might seem a little tight upon breakin (no tighter than any stock bearing) but once they break in nothing can touch them and they will last you forever. I ran a set in my TC3 for three years and never had to replace one of them. I only cleaned them twice a season and that was more than was necessary (yes the seals are that good!)
If you don't go with the Acer's visit SpeedTech Rc and go for the Yokomo Ceramics!
#6261
Tech Adept
up front ...
hey everyone ..
sorry if this has been asked before ...
has anyone changed their front one way to a front solid axle/spool??
if so .. is it better?? any comments..??
where can i get one from and the part number if possible ..
many thanx ..
sorry if this has been asked before ...
has anyone changed their front one way to a front solid axle/spool??
if so .. is it better?? any comments..??
where can i get one from and the part number if possible ..
many thanx ..
#6263
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Re: up front ...
Originally posted by hapiya
hey everyone ..
sorry if this has been asked before ...
has anyone changed their front one way to a front solid axle/spool??
if so .. is it better?? any comments..??
where can i get one from and the part number if possible ..
many thanx ..
hey everyone ..
sorry if this has been asked before ...
has anyone changed their front one way to a front solid axle/spool??
if so .. is it better?? any comments..??
where can i get one from and the part number if possible ..
many thanx ..
#6264
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by koabich
Just wanted to reply to this. First of all RC4Less bearings are NOT of a better grade than Acer Ceramics. Acer Ceramic bearings are made to tighter tolerances. Contrary to popular belief the lower the Grade number a ball is, the rounder and smoother it is.
Second, there will be no issue of interferance or increased friction due to the seals.
These are basically perfect bearings. They might seem a little tight upon breakin (no tighter than any stock bearing) but once they break in nothing can touch them and they will last you forever. I ran a set in my TC3 for three years and never had to replace one of them. I only cleaned them twice a season and that was more than was necessary (yes the seals are that good!)
If you don't go with the Acer's visit SpeedTech Rc and go for the Yokomo Ceramics!
Just wanted to reply to this. First of all RC4Less bearings are NOT of a better grade than Acer Ceramics. Acer Ceramic bearings are made to tighter tolerances. Contrary to popular belief the lower the Grade number a ball is, the rounder and smoother it is.
Second, there will be no issue of interferance or increased friction due to the seals.
These are basically perfect bearings. They might seem a little tight upon breakin (no tighter than any stock bearing) but once they break in nothing can touch them and they will last you forever. I ran a set in my TC3 for three years and never had to replace one of them. I only cleaned them twice a season and that was more than was necessary (yes the seals are that good!)
If you don't go with the Acer's visit SpeedTech Rc and go for the Yokomo Ceramics!
I agree the Acer ceramics are good bearings, I switched them over to metal shields and didnt have any problems. But for now I just want it to be a bit easier and I'll use the Speedtech bearings that already have metal shields.
#6265
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Speaking of bearings, I received a spray lubricant for bearings from the Tamiya worlds. The stuff looks and is very light, haven't run the car yet to see if the oil breaks down.
Speaking of bearings, I received a spray lubricant for bearings from the Tamiya worlds. The stuff looks and is very light, haven't run the car yet to see if the oil breaks down.
#6267
Re: 415 Front Diff???
Originally posted by Apex
Steve,
Have you been able to find an aftermarket diff that is made for the 415?
Thanks,
Apex
Steve,
Have you been able to find an aftermarket diff that is made for the 415?
Thanks,
Apex
I assume you're talking about the front of the 415? Many have post setup on how to piece one together using Yokomo outdrives. We have drawings down to CNC Machine steel ones, however, we are tied up at the moment making spools, so this might come a bit later (few months from now)
Steve Wang
#6268
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Hey Steve, I hadn't ordered your ceramics because I thought they were Squat Dry bearings which I have had bad luck with, I have heard the Yokomo's are very high quality though, I'll propably just go with those.
Patrick blew out last weekend, but he should be there this Sat, I'm gonna keep the delrin outdrives for spares, but if I can just exchange the C-Hub for Spindles, that would be great.
Hey Steve, I hadn't ordered your ceramics because I thought they were Squat Dry bearings which I have had bad luck with, I have heard the Yokomo's are very high quality though, I'll propably just go with those.
Patrick blew out last weekend, but he should be there this Sat, I'm gonna keep the delrin outdrives for spares, but if I can just exchange the C-Hub for Spindles, that would be great.
I did receive your email by the way, and I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to reply. But I'll look for Patrick this Saturday, and I'll give you a reply also about the bearing prices. I guess you won't be making it this Sat? Suppose to be a good crowd this Sat
Steve Wang
#6269
Re: up front ...
Originally posted by hapiya
hey everyone ..
sorry if this has been asked before ...
has anyone changed their front one way to a front solid axle/spool??
if so .. is it better?? any comments..??
where can i get one from and the part number if possible ..
many thanx ..
hey everyone ..
sorry if this has been asked before ...
has anyone changed their front one way to a front solid axle/spool??
if so .. is it better?? any comments..??
where can i get one from and the part number if possible ..
many thanx ..
front spool is more of a tuning option. Under certain conditions, they can be better than one-way, but under certain conditions they are not. Usually I see guys run spools on larger, flowing type of tracks, and one-ways on tight twisting tracks. Just my observation
We should have more spools available in 2-3 weeks as they are getting ready to be heat treated.
Steve Wang
#6270
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hi Randy,
I did receive your email by the way, and I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to reply. But I'll look for Patrick this Saturday, and I'll give you a reply also about the bearing prices. I guess you won't be making it this Sat? Suppose to be a good crowd this Sat
Steve Wang
Hi Randy,
I did receive your email by the way, and I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to reply. But I'll look for Patrick this Saturday, and I'll give you a reply also about the bearing prices. I guess you won't be making it this Sat? Suppose to be a good crowd this Sat
Steve Wang
I'll get in contact with Patrick today and give him the C-Hubs, thanks for doing the swap for me.