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Old 01-04-2005, 09:26 PM   #6181
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Quote:
Originally posted by s2
AYE!!!!

lol i kinda hope your joking, but just incase.......

there is 1 X Block
there are 2 A Blocks
there is 1 B Block
there is 1 C Block
there is 1 D Block
there is 1 A Bridge
there is 1 D Bridge

Thank you!
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Old 01-04-2005, 09:30 PM   #6182
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Originally posted by s2
with the new narower toe blocks, i was wondering what the effect of narrowing the car would have, with both lwt susp and the normal susp?

thanks
stew
To add to what Carl has said, be careful when narrowing the car too much, because it is definately a handful to drive. I have 187mm wide in front and rear, but I like a lot of steering, my car would propably be undrivable to most people.

BTW, anyone who does like steering, I tried the new Yokomo Stratus body today and it really loosens up the back of the car, it had a lot of steering.
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Old 01-04-2005, 09:34 PM   #6183
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Originally posted by razi
hey guys need some help here....i know dat dis topic has been asked a few times but cant really find the ans...currently im running the ms kit and im having trouble with the front belst flipping....busted 3 front belts already...wat went wrong??hope u guys can help...thkxx...ps.im running the white belts with 1 notch tighter...
I think the problem is coming from impacts on the track, the shock sent back through the drivetrain just ends up flipping the belt.

I guess it could also be a bad mold on the belts or something, maybe the fibers arent straight through the belt, that may cause the problem.

I have yet to flip a white belt, and all I run is a 6 turn motor, so maybe I have just gotten lucky.
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Old 01-04-2005, 10:50 PM   #6184
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another cause of belt flipping can be caused by your batteries jamming into them. I've had mine flip, and another racer too, only after getting t-boned on battery side.
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:15 PM   #6185
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Can someone tell me what the dimensions are on the diff covers? I have access to a vinyl cutter and I would like to make some.
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:15 PM   #6186
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TJ wish it I could say it was soon. My business is going to good here and am to busy to race.
I was hoping to go back to the Novak along with the Magma race and both are not in the cards. It looks like I will be able to make Reedy this year though. No wheelchairs strapped to my ass now.

Hope all is well there at Castle Hill
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Old 01-05-2005, 05:09 AM   #6187
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Quote:
Originally posted by Racing4Evo
Can someone tell me what the dimensions are on the diff covers? I have access to a vinyl cutter and I would like to make some.
Hi, I've done mine in the spirit of tamiyadrivers (pic from earlier post of his)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...postid=1291376
and mounted them onto the diff pulley.

Outside diameter 35mm, internal 20mm.
the internal is a little tight, so does require some rubbing down, so that the cover doesn't rub the outdrive. They do look good though, and in total i think it's cost me about 65p.... and I'll be able to make lots of them, even at the track if required.

HIH
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Old 01-05-2005, 05:42 AM   #6188
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Default 415MS or Evo IV

Hi I was looking for some advice. I want to get either the Evo IV or 415MS and was looking for some input. Where I am from we mostly run stock but some occasional mod racing occurs. We usually race carpet with foam tires or outdoor foam or rubber. I was kindof eyeing the 415MS but was wondering if it was as efficient in the drivetrain as the EVO IV. Since we more often run stock with the cars. Also I was wondering if Chassis setups are mostly the same.

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2005, 05:49 AM   #6189
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Default 415MS or Evo IV

Hi I was looking for some advice. I want to get either the Evo IV or 415MS and was looking for some input. Where I am from we mostly run stock but some occasional mod racing occurs. We usually race carpet with foam tires or outdoor foam or rubber. I was kindof eyeing the 415MS but was wondering if it was as efficient in the drivetrain as the EVO IV. Since we more often run stock with the cars. Also I was wondering if Chassis setups are mostly the same.

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:05 AM   #6190
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fpart, read my posts on page 204 and 205. It will answer your questions. Knowing all the carpet tracks in NJ, avoid the EVo4 and get an old 415. (plus the front A block and LF belts and your all set)

razi: If your having belt jumping problem, double check your diff gears. some drivers apply too much CA in gluing the belt guides and as results some of the glue forms a small bump between a few of the the pulley gears which helps the belt jump off. Take an exacto and scrap between the pulley gears if you see CA. The CA should chip off.

If the battery are jumping out of the slots and into the belt try this. 1. make sure the battery pack is sitting as low as possible. I check this by using a single cell on each slot and file the slot until the bottum of the cell is flush with the bottum of the chassis. 2. When assemblying a new pack, I actually place all the cells on the chassis and apply a drop of gap filling CA to each cell. This method ensures that the pack will rest in the battery slot perfectly. Then I remove the pack, place it in a battery holder to solder the pack together.

I recently purchased 2x Fusion packs of GP3300 and was very disappointed. Bad enough the LHS ripped me off on the price, but the pack is assembled in such a way that it does not rest perfectly in the battery slot. Basically the cells are glued and soldered together very tight which results in the pack partically resting in the slots. I have to wrap 2x pieces of strapping tape to hold it in place. Its a great idea to have pre-made race packs but it does not work for all application. The SMC packs I've have which were assembled the way I mentioned above sit and fit perfectly, requiring only a single wrap of strapping tape. No Fusions for me.

Razzo: thanks for the tip. I will try that block set-up you posted. What is your overall track width with the b/a & x/c set-up. What wheel hexes and spacers are you running. And are you running Carpet foams?
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:06 AM   #6191
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Quote:
Originally posted by kentech
Sent you a PM regarding the Jürgen alu diff.

Here's the part# for the Atlas diff covers for the TRF415:

MH7-613 ATLAS TRF415 DIFF PROTECT SEAL
Is there a place I can get that online?
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:07 AM   #6192
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Anyone interested in a MS with 4 racedays on it? Titanium screws, locked pulley, heatsink beam, delrin outdrives. All CF has been sanded and sealed beautifully, has a nice shine to it just like the carbon parts. This will be able to be shipped on Wednesday, I have to race Tuesday again. No impacts, never broken a part.
Why don't you just use it as a practice car, and your new cars as race cars?
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:08 AM   #6193
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Randy Caster, your so dialed!
Rod, your avatar is dialed. Never thought school girl outfits were so hot.
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:10 AM   #6194
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcfiend
Thanks kobiach, I guess I should of been more descriptive. I was enquiring about the diff balls, rings, spring and thrust bearings, but you answered all my questions. I was looking to replace everything last week and the Tamiya Balls were $9.00 for just standard balls. I just wanted to see if the diff components were similar to other cars.
rcfiend, I suppose you can use other companies diff parts since most are standardized. However I'm not sure about materials though.
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:11 AM   #6195
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
actually ayone have the part number for the thrust bearings? I think mine need re-placing, the diff feels real gritty, even with new balls in.
Ed
Why not place black o-rings in the outdrive. This creates a seal to prevent dirt from getting to the thrust bearing while still being able to adjust the diff screw.
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