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Old 12-23-2004, 08:52 AM   #5806
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dumd - how ironic

Me, but it didn't cost anything like that much.
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:53 AM   #5807
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Default To brass or not to brass.....

The aluminum ball ends need to go - they break too easily.

I was hunting for titanium blue...did not find, so I am just going to get regular colored titanium ball ends.

But I see some brass ball ends popping up once in a while at a fraction of the cost. I thought that brass was a soft metal also.
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:56 AM   #5808
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ballsie
dumd - how ironic

.......
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:01 AM   #5809
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Brass is a lot stronger than the Alum. I beleive that the LW suspension kit, that I have includes Steel ball ends. I'll look at my kit tonight.

Picked up the Tamiya motor case and another carring case. Looks good Chris. Tamiya just makes me so happy......
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:02 AM   #5810
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Does the bag fit in the Mugen bag?
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:28 AM   #5811
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Default Re: To brass or not to brass.....

Quote:
Originally posted by raffaelli
The aluminum ball ends need to go - they break too easily.

I was hunting for titanium blue...did not find, so I am just going to get regular colored titanium ball ends.

But I see some brass ball ends popping up once in a while at a fraction of the cost. I thought that brass was a soft metal also.
Hey raffaelli, if you want to keep unsprung weight and other masses down to a minimum, I would highly suggest that you stay away from those brass balls like the plague. If you hold a bag of them in one hand and a bag of aluminum/ti in another, you won't think twice about it
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:34 AM   #5812
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thats no joke... i had a big stack of the brass ones from building TA04s. those are heavy!+
i know the alum are not as strong, but on the ones that have screws going into them, i used a slightly longer screw. usually they break right at the bottom of the ball section, and the longer screw supports it better. just as long as they dont go through the top!
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:41 AM   #5813
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Raffaelli and Carl,

If you guys need brass or steel ball studs, let me know, I have a bunch!

Tryhard

on the Kai model graphite components, I plan on getting all the pieces for the TRF415

Steve Wang
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:51 AM   #5814
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I agree with the unsprung weight concept. But finishing a race is more important than playing the weight game for us.

My car, in box stock form with a Q2 SC, FutS and KO REC and Stock motor is still underweight, with the steel screws.

Not sure what type of tracks you guys are running on, but typically as in all NE tracks. We have to deal with multiple 2x4's that are bolted to the track and NO radius corners and NY drivers. No room for delicate parts.

Besides the boards seem to just jump out in front of my car for somereason.

Steve, send us your steel balls....LOL
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Old 12-23-2004, 10:54 AM   #5815
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Hi Just wondering where You can get the blue Cell tape from?

Thanks peeps
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:02 AM   #5816
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nathan Parker
Hi Just wondering where You can get the blue Cell tape from?

Thanks peeps
Speedtech had a bunch of different colors last I heard. Give Steve a call.
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:44 AM   #5817
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Thanks matey trouble is im in the uk any idea where it comes from?
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:03 PM   #5818
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Quote:
Originally posted by Carl Giordano
Steve, send us your steel balls....LOL


Carl.. use the flourine coated ones. they're just as strong as the brass ones and super smooth. a tad lighter too. ive been using them since march on my cars (former 415 and now evoIV)

ive broken two (one on the arm and one on the rear hub) when my car thought it was a gymnast and decided to do cartwheels straight into concrete outer wall at socal. oh ya.. i had the same problem as you. STUPID dot jumped out in front of my car!
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:05 PM   #5819
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nathan Parker
Thanks matey trouble is im in the uk any idea where it comes from?
here's his website www.speedtechrc.com

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Old 12-23-2004, 12:10 PM   #5820
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i've broken the florine coated ones as well. Pain in the ass having to drill them out of the plastic.

Mine have always snapped on the threads. Which leads me to believe that I made the mistake of using the alum ball stud to tap into the plastic. Next time I'll pre-tap the plastic with a steel 3mm screw.

I'll use the florine alum balls everywhere except the steering knuckles. The weight difference is not going to keep me out of the "A" main and at least I won't hear it from the x-ray guys if I snap another one.
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