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Old 11-08-2004, 06:42 PM   #4711
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Dave,

I am running D/D blocks up front. I just recently got the A Bridge block from SpeedTech R/C. I think I should not have to switch as that is stock as per kit instructions and the front diff should have been designed a little longer and work with a stock setup.

Do you have the diff with the Teflon Blade design?

Also did you find that the one side is very close with the spring and diff nut with plastic thing take up a lot of room in the one side in the slot? It definitely affects the design with the blades.
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:49 PM   #4712
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Originally posted by 190mph
Dave,

I am running D/D blocks up front. I just recently got the A Bridge block from SpeedTech R/C. I think I should not have to switch as that is stock as per kit instructions and the front diff should have been designed a little longer and work with a stock setup.

Do you have the diff with the Teflon Blade design?

Also did you find that the one side is very close with the spring and diff nut with plastic thing take up a lot of room in the one side in the slot? It definitely affects the design with the blades.
Yes I have the version with the teflon blade design... but I have yet to have any clearance issues..;nod; but then again I only have 5 packs on the Diff
-Dave
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:40 PM   #4713
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Default Pictures of the Front Diff Issue

Here is the location of the cross pins on the rear diff as we all know and it's nice and safe in about 6mm from the outside:



And the Front Diff? Look at the left side in picture. Sitting on the edge. This is D/D Blocks configuration and camber is at -2 degrees with stock 42mm swing shafts:



Initially the blades were against the diff nut which was built as follows (look in the slot on right side) and may have started the big problems and most of the damage. This being an equal outdrive type diff that is centered in the bulkheads it should have had less machining of the bore on the thrust bearing side and more machining on the spring/diff nut side. The diff nut is too far out on the right outdrive in the slot:



I cut the plastic diff nut thing down to the height of the 2mm locknut that goes in there and kept the ears side so it can hold its position in the slot and the nut and plastic were CA glued together so the plastic ear part would not slip off the nut. See some more room in the slot area on the right side:



Finally the damage on that outdrive half. Oh this sucks!

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Old 11-08-2004, 09:56 PM   #4714
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why would you run D/D ? for carpet where D/A will be better as it gives you more steering for the tighter tracks i know you didnt have it and thanks for the heads up but i wonder if you can put a 46 mm bone on the right side ? that should even it out no?
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Old 11-09-2004, 12:13 AM   #4715
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Some days ago there were a discussion regarding a battery brace.
I donīt like the strapping tape Iīm using the Xray 6 cell brace now. I now have a picture how this looks in the car.
Will the EVO III brace also fit?

cheers, Mark.
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:28 AM   #4716
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I just bought these SQUARE rear up-rights. Is there a difference between these and the TAMIYA ones besides being TCS legal?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 415 lw rear hub.jpg (33.4 KB, 184 views)
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:32 AM   #4717
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Quote:
Originally posted by forty6
To have a nice finish, you will need a drill press. If you have a steady hand, then a cordless drill will do. The important thing is to get the CORRECT countersink bit. You will need a 5 or 6 flute for a smoother finish. Also, it needs to have a 90 degree head angle for the screw to sit properly. (it comes in several angles) M3 screws that we use have this. You can find it at www.mcmaster.com. It is only about $5.
you really shouldnt buy a countersink for use on graphite unless its carbide.

its pretty expensive, something like 30+ but a carbide countersink basically never wears out on graphite.

pretty much everything cheaper wears out after just a few holes.

carbide really is the ticket for tooling when working with graphite, its stays so sharp, it works so well
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:27 AM   #4718
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Default Square alloy rear hub

Quote:
Originally posted by BKK
I just bought these SQUARE rear up-rights. Is there a difference between these and the TAMIYA ones besides being TCS legal?
WOW, this is amazing. Square's alloy hub looks JUST like Schumacher's alloy rear hub. Wait, the hole drivetrain looks similar??? Can it be , a copy?????


Just joking all of the TRF freaks, your car's are awesome looking, but if you want more tunning options, I would consider looking into the alloy hubs for the Mi2. Rear toe is adjustable at the hub, not with the block. Put you TRF 415 in front of your mirror which you guys spend so Much time, and you begin to see purple........
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:29 AM   #4719
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yeah and dont forget that schumacher is the world champion team...oh! wait itīs not!!!
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:33 AM   #4720
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Originally posted by TRF_SPAIN
yeah and dont forget that schumacher is the world champion team...oh! wait itīs not!!!
TRF Spain, I dont dount the ability or the agility of the TRF 415, but what did you call the car that won the world's??? Tamiabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz1234567890????? I just wanted to clarify this.
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:33 AM   #4721
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Originally posted by TRF_SPAIN
yeah and dont forget that schumacher is the world champion team...oh! wait itīs not!!!
but schumacher did get at least one car in the A, right?
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:35 AM   #4722
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but schumacher did get at least one car in the A, right?
At least the called it the Mi2...
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:39 AM   #4723
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This is remarkable, and I am sure all of us would laugh at this...

After the conclusion of the world's, two of my local racer's ran to their computer, and ordered two TRF415's from HK. They never, ever saw them run, and yet they never even seen one. There must be a genie with every purchase of a 415, and TI screw set. That's amazing.... Congrat's to Tamiya.
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:26 AM   #4724
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The name of the car that won the worlds is just TRF415..., and the name of the car that won the LRP masters, and the name of the car that won the Reedy Cup, and Orion Classic this weekend...check Marcīs cars if you have the chance any time ( i had it many many times...) and you could see how bone stock are his chassis...and how many broken or bad parts have on it...hhaha, man this guy is a genius, and chassis is not really important for him...if you are a schumacher fan itīs ok, but dont start trashing on a Tamiya thread, i think that you have your own Schumacher corner oh! on the other hand the Mi2 is the dominant car in the spanish championship but hey, thatīs sports
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Old 11-09-2004, 07:31 AM   #4725
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That's right Raul, I'm one of those racers who ordered a TRF. Actually I ordered the chassis from overseas because of the workmenship and quality of Tamiya products. I was very impressed with what I saw on the shaft driven car.

And for the record, the only reason why I have to get back into toruing car is to kick your ass, expecially since you won't run 1/12th.


It on baby, East Coast Challenge....Tamiya vs. Schumacher....Region 2 vs. Region 1.

Its all good Gargoon... Raul is actually one of the top drivers at the track in CT where the 2005 On-road Nationals will be held. I should have the TRF415 and will provide some set-up info online for this track.

Koabich: thanks for the photos
Linger: Say hello to Jimmy J. and remind him that the Yankees rule and Oakland choked. Also, if you can post your carpet set-ups that would help.

Does anyone have blank 415 set-up sheet?

You can e-mail me @ [email protected]
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