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Old 11-08-2004, 03:52 PM   #4696
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Default Re: mip cvds

Quote:
Originally posted by forty6
And oh, I am using MIP CVDs. I haven't tried it, but they fit.
which MIP CVDs are you using?
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Old 11-08-2004, 03:52 PM   #4697
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Hmm, itīs not a secret. Some guys here are using the Xray brace since a long time. Iīm using this also since the beginning but had no time for a picture before. Itīs a little more heavy than the tape but works so well.
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Old 11-08-2004, 03:56 PM   #4698
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Quote:
Originally posted by over gear
forty6 and V12, what kind of screws do you use on the bottom??
Iīm using flathead screws and you have to countersunk the chassis but itīs easy to do.
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Old 11-08-2004, 03:58 PM   #4699
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Hmm, itīs not a secret. Some guys here are using the Xray brace since a long time. Iīm using this also since the beginning but had no time for a picture before. Itīs a little more heavy than the tape but works so well.
can you please post what xray parts are needed? (part numbers?)

thanks!
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:01 PM   #4700
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Default foam tyre carpet setup for 415??

anyone know where i can find a good setup for the 415 on carpet with foam tyres?
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:05 PM   #4701
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
can you please post what xray parts are needed? (part numbers?)

thanks!
I bought this as used at a race so I have no part number. But I can do a search on this. I think itīs a set with just the brace, the aluminium standoffs and screws. For a perfect fit you have to enlarge the hole on one side with a file as itīs not exactly the same position as with the Xray car but thatīs done in 1 minute. Also Iīm using some foamtape (about 2mm or 1/10") on the brace so the battery is held firmly.
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:05 PM   #4702
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Iīm using flathead screws and you have to countersunk the chassis but itīs easy to do.
how do u countersunk the chassis? i tried it once a long time ago with a electric drill... and i managed to drill a big hole on the chassis
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:17 PM   #4703
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Quote:
Originally posted by over gear
how do u countersunk the chassis? i tried it once a long time ago with a electric drill... and i managed to drill a big hole on the chassis
Donīt use a drill, there is a special tool for countersinking. You should get this one in a hardware store. Also you have to be careful, just a little and then check again if itīs deep enough. Some guys are doing this also using a sharp knife or a dremel but this isnīt perfect.

Just found out the part #. Itīs 306160 for the complete set.
You can find picture and description here http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...&kategoria=458
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:35 PM   #4704
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Quote:
Originally posted by over gear
how do u countersunk the chassis? i tried it once a long time ago with a electric drill... and i managed to drill a big hole on the chassis
To have a nice finish, you will need a drill press. If you have a steady hand, then a cordless drill will do. The important thing is to get the CORRECT countersink bit. You will need a 5 or 6 flute for a smoother finish. Also, it needs to have a 90 degree head angle for the screw to sit properly. (it comes in several angles) M3 screws that we use have this. You can find it at www.mcmaster.com. It is only about $5.
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:38 PM   #4705
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Hmm, itīs not a secret. Some guys here are using the Xray brace since a long time. Iīm using this also since the beginning but had no time for a picture before. Itīs a little more heavy than the tape but works so well.
Yeah, once you've tried it, you will never go back. (maybe once in a while in a big race ) It is so convenient, just pop and go. No more gooey stuff.
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Old 11-08-2004, 04:41 PM   #4706
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
can you please post what xray parts are needed? (part numbers?)

thanks!
It is a complete set (306160). It is around $20. You get all the hardware and strap. Now Xray will wonder about the surge in demand for these things. Stormer has them in stock, so does Horizon.
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Old 11-08-2004, 05:02 PM   #4707
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Default Battery brace

Part #:306160 it is!

thanks guys.
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Old 11-08-2004, 05:03 PM   #4708
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Default Re: foam tyre carpet setup for 415??

Quote:
Originally posted by Apex
anyone know where i can find a good setup for the 415 on carpet with foam tyres?
Hi Apex,
Me, EJ Evans, and Jimmy Jacobson just finised running our 415's with foams on carpet. All of us ran slightly different setups, but all of us stuck with the old suspension. EJ ran AE white front springs, I ran AE yellow, and Jimmy ran AE Purple. All of us ran AE red in rear. Jimmy ran his rear suspension blocks flat on the chassis and the front, he mentioned he used some kickup.
Jimmy initially ran a 1-way during qualifying. In the main, Jimmy gambled, popped in a SPEEDTECH spool and fixed center pulley and went absolutely ballistic.

So a spool with foam tires works on carpet too!
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:08 PM   #4709
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Default Front Diff

I have the new aluminum front diff from Jürgen from Germany and it is starting to get damaged a lot. Every race the teflon blade on the one side gets destroyed and the swing shaft ends up goughing up the outdrive half. The halves were not machined evenly long enough on each side (about 1mm or so difference). That is a problem when the cross pin of the swing shaft is probably only about 1-2 mm into the outdrive half to start with.

The problem is the diff assembly is too short overall when assembled and the swing shafts (left and right) does not go in far enough. The rear diff assembly is 58.5mm long. Jürgen's design is just 54mm. I am running stock 42mm swing shafts.

I wonder if I am supposed to run 46mm swing shafts?

I think the quality and finish is excellent but there was a miscalculation on this as the swing shaft's cross pins barely are in the slots on each side and this being the front end you can't get away with that. I am not very fond of the blades on the swing shaft (dog bone) idea. On the side that is not having any problems yet the teflon blade is slowly wearing and developing a little play in the small holes for the cross pin of the swing shaft and will wear out soon enough. I will try to post pictures but I cannot get a clear good closeup shot with my digital camera yet. I'll try again.
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:16 PM   #4710
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Default Re: Front Diff

Quote:
Originally posted by 190mph
I have the new aluminum front diff from Jürgen from Germany and it is starting to get damaged a lot. Every race the teflon blade on the one side gets destroyed and the swing shaft ends up goughing up the outdrive half. The halves were not machined evenly long enough on each side (about 1mm or so difference). That is a problem when the cross pin of the swing shaft is probably only about 1-2 mm into the outdrive half to start with.

The problem is the diff assembly is too short overall when assembled and the swing shafts (left and right) does not go in far enough. The rear diff assembly is 58.5mm long. Jürgen's design is just 54mm. I am running stock 42mm swing shafts.

I wonder if I am supposed to run 46mm swing shafts?



I think the quality and finish is excellent but there was a miscalculation on this as the swing shaft's cross pins barely are in the slots on each side and this being the front end you can't get away with that. I am not very fond of the blades on the swing shaft (dog bone) idea. On the side that is not having any problems yet the teflon blade is slowly wearing and developing a little play in the small holes for the cross pin of the swing shaft and will wear out soon enough. I will try to post pictures but I cannot get a clear good closeup shot with my digital camera yet. I'll try again.

What front blocks are you running..?? D/D or A/A..
I have his diff up front and I have yet to notice any problems when using the A/A block.. but with the D/D up front it's a smigin' to short
-Dave
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