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Old 10-24-2004, 09:02 AM   #4411
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Default Carpet track

I yet to race outdoors
trying to upload this pic
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Old 10-24-2004, 01:54 PM   #4412
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Default CarpetFun

Usually carpet racing is seasonal (Oct to April) for most of the guys I know in the snow-bound states. By April we are very anxious to go outside.

I live in the middle between 2 tracks both 50 min away. One is super big and the other small triangular.

So far both seem to be doing well and their owners are not cheap on lights or driving around in Ferraris.
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Old 10-24-2004, 08:15 PM   #4413
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Any help on a 27T setup?

I have a 415 with stock arms/setup. any help would be appreciated.

The track is a short and technical course, my motor is a Trinity stocker.

thanks
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Old 10-24-2004, 09:33 PM   #4414
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Default Re: CarpetFun

Quote:
Originally posted by A-Ko
So far both seem to be doing well and their owners are not cheap on lights or driving around in Ferraris.
LOL...consider your self lucky
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Old 10-25-2004, 03:24 AM   #4415
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Quote:
Originally posted by paulc
Any help on a 27T setup?

I have a 415 with stock arms/setup. any help would be appreciated.

The track is a short and technical course, my motor is a Trinity stocker.

thanks
Hey paul, check out the link in my sig, theres a base setup on there for std arms. For a tight and twisty track, you'll probably want to lose the fornt Anti-roll bar, just to get it to turn better and quicker.

Hope it helps
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Old 10-25-2004, 03:47 AM   #4416
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Thanks I got that already

Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Hey paul, check out the link in my sig, theres a base setup on there for std arms. For a tight and twisty track, you'll probably want to lose the fornt Anti-roll bar, just to get it to turn better and quicker.

Hope it helps
Ed
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:05 AM   #4417
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Default foam tire mod

Well guys I think you might be interested in this mod.

Here is what I do to run foam tires on my evoIII and my 415.

I remove the combo kingpin ball stud. I only use them when I run a tamiya race, and I run rubber tires. I then use the sleeves that are on the bottom of the steering knuckle and repalce them with the older ta04 screw in lower kingpin screws, they seem to bite into the plastic better than the screw through the sleeve method.

Next find some long grub scress much like the droop screws in the suspension, I use some screws from traxxis as they are very long. I then cut them down to about 15mm in length.

Next I install the sleeves on the top and screw the grub screw in the top of the knuckle, be careful not to screw in to far as it will hit the universal shaft if you hit the shaft just loosen the screw until it clears.

Next I use a serpent screw on ball stud and joint. You can also use a tamiya 5mm screw on ball stud and joint. I screw tha ball onto the grub screw and pop the joint on. This now fits into the wheel when the wheel is mounted, and clears with no problem. This mod also allowed me to make roll center changes on the block, by adding shims under the ball.
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:50 AM   #4418
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Guys,

Looking for an editable .pdf setup sheet for the 415 with the LW suspension.

Looked through a good # of pages but couldn't find one...

THanks
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Old 10-25-2004, 10:12 AM   #4419
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Quote:
Originally posted by paulc
Any help on a 27T setup?

I have a 415 with stock arms/setup. any help would be appreciated.

The track is a short and technical course, my motor is a Trinity stocker.

thanks
In case your 415 has a 2 degree toe-in rear upright, try setting it up 1 degree rear toe-in. Let me know if there's a positive effect coz i haven't tried running the setup that i'am suggesting.
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Old 10-25-2004, 08:59 PM   #4420
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Hey,

What does increasing the width of the car (ie: using spacers between ther hex & the wheel, or D/D blocks instead of B/B) do to the handling of the car?

btw: My "previously enjoyed hobby goods" 415 came with B/B blocks on the rear. Could that lead me to any potential problems in setting the car up?
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:40 PM   #4421
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Ever since I got to use the TA04 rear uprights (0 degree) and using the 1B (1 degree) rear toe block, the kit is much better and faster in transition.

Now I think its just a matter of droop. I notice that some corners get off the ground upon heavy cornering.


Quote:
Originally posted by Balugz
In case your 415 has a 2 degree toe-in rear upright, try setting it up 1 degree rear toe-in. Let me know if there's a positive effect coz i haven't tried running the setup that i'am suggesting.
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Old 10-26-2004, 12:07 AM   #4422
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how did you get 0 degree rear hubs? I thought lowest available was 1 degrees. Regular TA04 ones are 1, hardened ones are 1, toe-in rear hubs are 2 (in 415kit) and aluminum ones are 1. DId I miss something? if you have the part # for the 0 degree, I'd appreciate it. I'd rather run toe in at the arms then hubs. Thanks.
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Old 10-26-2004, 12:15 AM   #4423
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I'm sorry. I assumed that the TA04 hubs are 0 degree since there were no markings on them. I also dont have the part number as I've long thrown the label that came with the part.
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Old 10-26-2004, 01:02 AM   #4424
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..hi all

i just made a ball diff for the 415 ..

but i've made it using a TA04 ball diff ..all i've done is replace the plastic pulley of the 04 to the 415's plastic pulley ..

it's seems nice an smooth an a good fit ..

but i would like to kno has anyone else out there tried this
an if so is there any problems that have occured >??

on this thread is says make it from a yokomo ...one ..
would i be better off doin it that way instead ..??
any feedback on this will b much appreciated ...

thanx in advance
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Old 10-26-2004, 01:46 AM   #4425
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how do the TA04 out drives work with kit CVD bones? I've got a diff made from Yok parts, but need to use longer bones to reach them, and shim them out with 10mm spacers to get it to center.

Did you have to use any shims with TA04 diff? are there any side play in the diff sitting in the bulkheads?
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