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Old 09-13-2004, 06:32 PM   #3766
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As to the block bending, if you notice when you space up the blocks you have less screw into them. Use slightly longer screws when you space them up to assist in reducing the chance of the block bending. No guarantees, but so far mine are still perfect even after some decent crashes.
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:50 PM   #3767
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Hello AMGracer,

Thanks for the response. The longer screws might help a little, but there is still the issue of the space between the susp. blocks and the chassis. Even with long screws there is the potential for the screw to bend and for the block to "V" in the center due to no support between the block and chassis.

I came up with an idea of making a shim out of graphite or fiberglass the length of the susp. blocks. Hmmm...

The track I race at is very large and unforgiving if you clip a corner or flip the car.

Cheerz
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:14 PM   #3768
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Quote:
Originally posted by F1Junkie
Use the HPI 4.3 mm ball studs meant for the Pro 4. After that, you can use RPM ball cups for a perfect fit. After the switch, I have ZERO slop in the steering. They make two lengths, 10.3 mm and 13 mm. The HPI part number for the 10.3 mm is 75115.
Are the threads of the ball stud metric?
Quote:
Originally posted by F1Junkie
You would think that a company known for high quality plastic manufacturing, such as Tamiya, would at least get their tolerances right. About the only disappointing thing with the car.
[/B]
You got that right!!! I thought using the captured ball ends in the TBevo will help take away slop, it DID, but it slops BIG time over time.


Dave, Thanks for that great tip!! I posted also awhile back al similar question. If only RPM made ball cups for the ballstuds of TAMIYA!!!! And all TAMIYA Cars would be perfect!!
Peace and Happy Racing!

BALLSIE: I use Lunsford turnbuckles on tamiya adjusters/ballcups, just be sure youget new ones when you use them becaue metric is larger than the thread of lunsford!

Last edited by lem2; 09-13-2004 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:18 PM   #3769
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Quote:
Originally posted by Obsidian
Hello AMGracer,

Thanks for the response. The longer screws might help a little, but there is still the issue of the space between the susp. blocks and the chassis. Even with long screws there is the potential for the screw to bend and for the block to "V" in the center due to no support between the block and chassis.

I came up with an idea of making a shim out of graphite or fiberglass the length of the susp. blocks. Hmmm...

The track I race at is very large and unforgiving if you clip a corner or flip the car.

Cheerz
Agree. Jet hobbies makes some very wide 3mm spacers (about twice as wide as the tamiya items) which I have used, and in conjunction with the longer screws I have not had a problem, but I can absolutely see how you could. Also I tend to not really crash very often. Your shim idea would be very very good.
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:45 PM   #3770
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Quote:
Originally posted by Obsidian


I came up with an idea of making a shim out of graphite or fiberglass the length of the susp. blocks. Hmmm...
Sounds like a good idea.. but Squate alerady makes some shims out of Carbon Fiber in 1mm and .5mm thicknesses.. also you can use some of the Pro4 F/R block shims they work too and come in 1mm and .5mm..
-Dave
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Old 09-14-2004, 01:32 AM   #3771
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Anyone know of any online shops that have the LW suspension arm set (x2) in stock? Part number is 49346.

Thanx...
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Old 09-14-2004, 02:17 AM   #3772
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Ballsie, I'm running Lunsford Ti turnbuckles on my steering arms, after I badly bent one of the alu ones in a crash, they seem a perfect fit for the ball cups, and I haven't had any more bending I haven't needed to replace the alu camber link ones, I have a feeling that alu for the steering links was a little weak.
With regard to the poping off ball cups, sounds like either the cups have too much play, or the turnbuckle is too tight in the cup. Try pushing down hard on both ends onto the ball studs when adjusting the turnbuckle. Failing that take off the turnbuckle and grind it in further than you would have it set, should add more screw thread inside, making it easier to adjust.

HiH
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Thanks for that - I'll have a go with the lunsford ones
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Old 09-14-2004, 02:44 AM   #3773
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dragonfire
Anyone know of any online shops that have the LW suspension arm set (x2) in stock? Part number is 49346.

Thanx...
I bought mine here:

eBay
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Old 09-14-2004, 05:03 AM   #3774
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The Tamiya DK team, with Steen Graversen in front, designed some alu plates to support the suspension blocks, and gave them to the team drivers attending the DHI cup, maybe somebody could post a pic of what iŽm talking about, just calibrate spacers instead of the small tamiya ones that could cause bending, and seems to work perfectly..., if someone could mkae the screw stuff, if a really cheap solution...just buying 1mm alu plates...
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Old 09-14-2004, 06:58 AM   #3775
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Here is a picture of Steens car where you can see whar the spacer looks like.
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File Type: jpg dhi2004 104.jpg (42.4 KB, 284 views)
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Old 09-14-2004, 07:40 AM   #3776
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Default Refine kit

The car is going to have a 2.5mm main chassis.... according to my reliable source. Seems to me that they are following the TR MY02M the car also has a 2.5mm main chassis.

I reckon the chassis surikarn used in the LRP masters maybe the prototype main chassis of the refine kit just a though
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Old 09-14-2004, 09:39 AM   #3777
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any other infor from this 'reliable source' ....
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Old 09-14-2004, 10:47 AM   #3778
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Default The A bridge block and inboard toe in/out

im using the std suspension set and am considering trying the abridge block to give inboard toe in/out, but dont really know what it'll do, what effect will inboard toe in/out give?

cheers

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Old 09-14-2004, 11:16 AM   #3779
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Stew,

More steering coming in and mid corner. This way you don't have to put toe out in the front to get the turn-in w/c can scrub off speed. This will also allow you to get better steering coming out.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-14-2004, 11:17 AM   #3780
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hey s2,
It seems to me, to give the car more on power steering, not sure if that's caus eof the inboard toe, reduced wheelbase or the narrower front end... but I'm sure some-one on here can help with that.

On a side note, after the talk about bending suspension blocks, had a look at mine today whilst cleaning the car (again... It's a disease I have, I can't have my 415 looking dirty.... ) and I've noticed that my rear B block has a bit on a bend on it guess it must have bent on a heavy hit at some point.. I did wonder why the car seems to pull right under v.hard acceleration, I checked tweak, shock lengths droop, etc, and it still did it, I wonder if this may be the cause... ahh well.
Guess I'll have to a have a look into getting some Alu spacers made up instead, hopefully avoiding this problem.

Regards
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