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Old 09-01-2004, 07:26 PM   #3571
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Originally posted by Obsidian
greetings everyone,

I have slop in the aluminum rear hubs where the hinge pin goes thru. Has anyone figured a way of eliminating this slop?

I've been reading various posts about reducing/eliminating slop in the ball joint using CA. I was wonder if this has been tried on the rear hub hinge pin hole with success. However, I don't see this as a permanent solution as the CA would eventually wear away.

Any permanent solutions/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Use teflon motor shims. That should work.

Also I have a question. Someone told me the 415 sucks for a carpet car. I know the wheels rub and that it can be fixed. But I'm just wondering if the car was primarily designed for asphault or does the person not know what he's talking about? It seems quite a few of you are running them on carpet. Just curious how you like them? I have most of the parts for a front diff and I have the spool. Also does the Evo4 suspension fix the problem of the wheels rubbing on foams?
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Old 09-01-2004, 07:28 PM   #3572
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Default Wing thing....

Been thinking about the two wing thing with the subaru body, had a little play around and then noticed a something.

Basically I was looking at the interaction between the underside of the wing, and the almost Gurney like flip-up on the body-work. So I placed both wings in two different positions on the shell, in full back, and full forward. These positions were determined by the 3 holes on the wings as supplied.

I then applied some basic airflow thoughts to this, so decided to take some pics and show what I thought

Pic 1.

Straight wing (large, almost perpendicular angle), in rear most position



What you see see here is the (simplified )airflow coming off the roof, and going under the wing, hitting the gurney, and then basically being flattened again. This means that the airflow underneath would not be providing an assistance to flow, and not utilsing the bernuli affect (air flow travelling a further distance travels faster, and hence is at a lower pressuer. This is the affect all wings are able to work by. Technically an RC cars "wing" is more of a spoiler than a full blown wing)

2) Straight wing Forward



Less straigtening of the underside flow here, however in the centre of the wing, due to the gurnery being curved and the wing straight, it could be assumed that the gap is suitable for smooth flow to take place. (also helped by the upward step in the middle of the wings)

3) Curved wing Back



Here you can see a good gap between the wing and gurnery, no flow restriction, and would deffiently help to aid the flow underneath the wing. This is especially apparent in the slot gap (where the wing and gurney tip are closest), as the air here would be accelerated, whilst still being relativly smooth.
Also note with the curved wing, as the gurnery is also curved, it would be consitent along the span, unlike the straight version.

4) Curved wing Front



Final pic. There is a Mahoosive ( :P ) gap between the wing and gurnery. What will happen is that the airflow nearset the gurnery simply wont have an sufficent affect on that nearest the wing, and as such provide very little acceleration to it. Not too useful, given the angle of the wing, but better than blocking it off (a la the straight version)

Having had a quick little mull over this, I think it'd be pretty reasonable to say that the straight wing will geneate more downforce, as it has the bigger angle, on it, even though the underside is pretty much doing nowt.
I would expect the curved version to probably be slightly nicer to drive, as it it would seem too be a more efficient wing, as the underside airflow would actually be contributing to the d/force generation.

For each, I would run the straight one in it's forward position (pic 2), and the curved in its rear position (pic 3), as these positions pretty much produce the best slot gap that they can, and then tune the chassis to suit.

Of course I cold be completely wrong on this, but until I've tried it out, this is my best guess. I am gonna try changing them this weekend and see if i notice a difference.

Anyway, though it'd make interesting reading.....

Ed

Oh and here's a couple of pic's of the complete shell



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Last edited by TryHard; 09-01-2004 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 09-01-2004, 07:33 PM   #3573
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Quote:
Originally posted by NismoSkyline17
Also I have a question. Someone told me the 415 sucks for a carpet car. I know the wheels rub and that it can be fixed. But I'm just wondering if the car was primarily designed for asphault or does the person not know what he's talking about? It seems quite a few of you are running them on carpet. Just curious how you like them? I have most of the parts for a front diff and I have the spool. Also does the Evo4 suspension fix the problem of the wheels rubbing on foams?
I guess you run foams?

I run rubber (Pits d20 wets or sorex 24R's) on carpert, and it is awesome...

I do find that with 26mm rubber the front knuckles still rub, but only with the lwt (ne Evo4) arm set. I have heard a number of solutions to it though, one of which is run Pro4 steering knuckles (plus bearings and axles), which also allows you to get rid of the 950 sized bearings....

The other one I recently discovered to work was run 26mm tyres on 24mm wheels, works well, plus the tyres sit on the rim better.

Hope it helps
Ed
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Old 09-01-2004, 10:46 PM   #3574
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Thanks guys. The report was work for about one day but I hope it was worth it.
You did a really good job, V12 - it can be really time consuming preparing such a report, especially with all the details which you had in there


Quote:
Marc
I donīt know. I think I will keep the EVO III as a car for racing in the wet when I have to. Also I will run the car one more time in two weeks when we have the finals from our regional series as this will be a dusty track from what I hear. Should be good enough for this. But this will be the last race outdoors.
For indoors I will run the 415 for sure.
Iīm really interested on your testdrive 415 vs Xray.
I'm also very interested - my cycle races are all finished now, but now we have our customer in-house and I need to work really long hours at the moment to support the customer's needs I think we may have to wait until October before I can really start testing.
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:42 PM   #3575
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28mm foams will fit on the original suspension for the 415. You just need 6mm wheel hexes. For now suspension you need the Pro4 front steering knuckles with 6mm wheel hexes in order to fit 28mm foams.

As for running the car on carpet with foams... I will be doin that in about a month. But to get a real good assessment of the car... you'll need a front diff and locked center pulley. Not just run the car with foams and the double oneways... So whether your friend is correct depends how he ran his car or whatever. Of course it's all just an opinion anyways...
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:43 PM   #3576
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Nice pics Ed...
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Old 09-02-2004, 12:15 AM   #3577
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Hey V12, I don't remember if you said or not.. and can't find it... but did they use a spool or oneway on the dry track for the Nats??
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:50 AM   #3578
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Default Tamiya Body

Tryhard,
Nice pictures and descriptions of the wings.

Does any know where to get one of these bodies?

Thanks,
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:58 AM   #3579
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Rainbow Ten

I've bought 3 of them from them in the last 2 weeks! I went for EMS delivery and got them in 3 working days.
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Old 09-02-2004, 07:19 AM   #3580
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
28mm foams will fit on the original suspension for the 415. You just need 6mm wheel hexes. For now suspension you need the Pro4 front steering knuckles with 6mm wheel hexes in order to fit 28mm foams.

As for running the car on carpet with foams... I will be doin that in about a month. But to get a real good assessment of the car... you'll need a front diff and locked center pulley. Not just run the car with foams and the double oneways... So whether your friend is correct depends how he ran his car or whatever. Of course it's all just an opinion anyways...
I have the fixed center pulleys as well. I also have clamping hub on mine just no sure if they are the 6mm ones.
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:18 AM   #3581
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Ballsie,
Do you have a part number for the bodies?
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:25 AM   #3582
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Yes ! - Tamiya 53727 1/10 SUBARU LEGACY B4 RACING BODY SET 190mm.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53727
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Old 09-02-2004, 10:23 AM   #3583
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Quote:
Originally posted by NismoSkyline17
I have the fixed center pulleys as well. I also have clamping hub on mine just no sure if they are the 6mm ones.
If your hubs are blue and came with the kit, they are 4mm. The 6mm hubs are an option parts and are silver. I posted the part number a a page or three back.
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Old 09-02-2004, 11:32 AM   #3584
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Hey V12, I don't remember if you said or not.. and can't find it... but did they use a spool or oneway on the dry track for the Nats??
Thatīs one detail I forgot maybe but usually nobody here runs a spool. Most drivers donīt like them. Marc only runs oneways as most of the other drivers.
Sascha Falter did run a frontdiff on his TC3 in one of the wet A-Mains but I think if he had a chance repeating this run he would go for a oneway this time.
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Old 09-02-2004, 11:37 AM   #3585
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
[BI'm also very interested - my cycle races are all finished now, but now we have our customer in-house and I need to work really long hours at the moment to support the customer's needs I think we may have to wait until October before I can really start testing. [/B]
Hi Mark
How was your Marathon? I hope better than my Nationals.
I think I will have some racing on carpet before October. In 10 days will be my last outdoor race for this year.
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