2LikesTamiya TRF415
08-16-2004, 02:56 PM
#3301
with 2deg hubs the d closest to the motor and the b at the rear, hovever with this setup youll have 1 degree of inboard toe-in and i dont know if this affect the car in anyway?
08-16-2004, 04:01 PM
#3302
Originally posted by s2
with 2deg hubs the d closest to the motor and the b at the rear, hovever with this setup youll have 1 degree of inboard toe-in and i dont know if this affect the car in anyway?
with 2deg hubs the d closest to the motor and the b at the rear, hovever with this setup youll have 1 degree of inboard toe-in and i dont know if this affect the car in anyway?
Hopefully this will help.
08-16-2004, 04:07 PM
#3303
Originally posted by TryHard
I have tried it on a tight indoor track, but with rubber tyres. I found that AE blue springs, and Tam whites on the rear, with medium sway bar on the front worked well. Cambers were 1.5 all round, with 5mm front and 5.5mm rear ride heights, droop at 3mm front and 5mm rear (using Yokomo gauge). Had B/D blocks on the rear (2deg toe total), and D/D on the front (0deg toe total).
All the camber links etc were as per the suspension instructions, except I'm running 0.7mm spacers under the front suspension block at the front, giving a bit of anti dive.
I was using Sorex 24R's, with med JB foam inserts, and Xray wheels (borrowed set from a fellow racer). However there was a lot of grip, as we had 1:12th cars running at the same time. In fact it was too much for my PitD20 narrow wets (what I usually run on the carpet), they were squealling all over the place, and whilst having massive grip to start, had overheated within about 3laps, and just had nothing left.
Anyway hope it helps.
Ed
I have tried it on a tight indoor track, but with rubber tyres. I found that AE blue springs, and Tam whites on the rear, with medium sway bar on the front worked well. Cambers were 1.5 all round, with 5mm front and 5.5mm rear ride heights, droop at 3mm front and 5mm rear (using Yokomo gauge). Had B/D blocks on the rear (2deg toe total), and D/D on the front (0deg toe total).
All the camber links etc were as per the suspension instructions, except I'm running 0.7mm spacers under the front suspension block at the front, giving a bit of anti dive.
I was using Sorex 24R's, with med JB foam inserts, and Xray wheels (borrowed set from a fellow racer). However there was a lot of grip, as we had 1:12th cars running at the same time. In fact it was too much for my PitD20 narrow wets (what I usually run on the carpet), they were squealling all over the place, and whilst having massive grip to start, had overheated within about 3laps, and just had nothing left.
Anyway hope it helps.
Ed
08-16-2004, 04:07 PM
#3304
really......i am right :)
Originally posted by misterntc3
Can someone help i want to run 1 degree rear toe in which blocks should i be running
thanks for your help
Can someone help i want to run 1 degree rear toe in which blocks should i be running
thanks for your help
d/b wil give 1deg overall
ps what effect will the inboard toe have?
stew
08-16-2004, 04:16 PM
#3305
Originally posted by TryHard
Slightly wrong there, the B block should be at the front with the D on the rear. That will give you a total of 2 degrees of toe.
Hopefully this will help.
Slightly wrong there, the B block should be at the front with the D on the rear. That will give you a total of 2 degrees of toe.
Hopefully this will help.
-Dave
08-16-2004, 04:27 PM
#3306
Re: really......i am right :)
Originally posted by s2
b/d will give 3deg overall
d/b wil give 1deg overall
ps what effect will the inboard toe have?
stew
b/d will give 3deg overall
d/b wil give 1deg overall
ps what effect will the inboard toe have?
stew
However, if you run the D front, B rear blocks with the std hubs, as you can see in the chart, you actually end up with inboard toe out. I'm not exactly sure what effect this would have on the car, bar lengthening the wheelbase slightly (due to the angle of the arms).
However in all honestly, I would stick with at a min 2deg, I would expect 1 deg to have a very nervous rear end on it, and it may not be particulary stable in a straight line.
The lightweight arms deffiently fell faster btw, it was very noticeable in the way the car could change from direction stupid quick.
Oh and JDM, I have some other ones I use too, namely a spring chart, gearing chart, and setup crib-sheet. PM me if youd like them (there all in EXCEL btw.
Ed
08-16-2004, 05:01 PM
#3307
Tech Fanatic
TryHard,
That is a great chart. It definately will be going in my folder for set ups. If you have anything else it would be greatly appreciated. I have a spring rate chart combining all of the manufactures but that is about it.
That is a great chart. It definately will be going in my folder for set ups. If you have anything else it would be greatly appreciated. I have a spring rate chart combining all of the manufactures but that is about it.
08-16-2004, 09:33 PM
#3308
does anyone have a rollout chart?
08-17-2004, 01:47 AM
#3310
Originally posted by ngo8
does anyone have a rollout chart?
does anyone have a rollout chart?
I did however do one for my Yoko a while back, when i was running on the Proline H13 (evil tyres) that were the BRCA spec tyres. They were considerably smaller in diameter, so really screwed with the gearing....
I'll have a look tonight, see if i can remember the formula for roll out, and then might add it to my gear chart.
If any one wants a copy, just PM your email addresses, and I'll send the Excel sheets with them on.
HiH
Ed
08-17-2004, 03:20 AM
#3311
On another note, I founs out a few things the yesterday
1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...
2) I have a feeling that the lightweight arms are desgined to be used with 24mm wheels and tyres. I use HPI 1540 tyres inddoors at Don Valley, and unfortuantly the tyres seem to rub on the front kunckle arms. I've tried shaving off some of the material on the arms, but I'm loathe ot go any further, as it might weaken the knuckle. Any ideas as to what to do here? I'm using all the spacers on the axles already.
Ed
1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...
2) I have a feeling that the lightweight arms are desgined to be used with 24mm wheels and tyres. I use HPI 1540 tyres inddoors at Don Valley, and unfortuantly the tyres seem to rub on the front kunckle arms. I've tried shaving off some of the material on the arms, but I'm loathe ot go any further, as it might weaken the knuckle. Any ideas as to what to do here? I'm using all the spacers on the axles already.
Ed
08-17-2004, 04:13 AM
#3312
Tech Master
Originally posted by TryHard
On another note, I founs out a few things the yesterday
1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...
2) I have a feeling that the lightweight arms are desgined to be used with 24mm wheels and tyres. I use HPI 1540 tyres inddoors at Don Valley, and unfortuantly the tyres seem to rub on the front kunckle arms. I've tried shaving off some of the material on the arms, but I'm loathe ot go any further, as it might weaken the knuckle. Any ideas as to what to do here? I'm using all the spacers on the axles already.
Ed
On another note, I founs out a few things the yesterday
1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...
2) I have a feeling that the lightweight arms are desgined to be used with 24mm wheels and tyres. I use HPI 1540 tyres inddoors at Don Valley, and unfortuantly the tyres seem to rub on the front kunckle arms. I've tried shaving off some of the material on the arms, but I'm loathe ot go any further, as it might weaken the knuckle. Any ideas as to what to do here? I'm using all the spacers on the axles already.
Ed
ive stripped the screw in the hubs and cant find any replacements so i will try the pro4 hubs as i heard the ackerman and steering geometry doesnt change with these.
plus the arms were the steering link goes are thinner
08-17-2004, 08:00 AM
#3313
Originally posted by TryHard
1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...
1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...
08-17-2004, 08:31 AM
#3314
Originally posted by rtypec
You can use the TA04 hingepin set including the low friction ones...they are a direct replacement for the 415 standard suspension hinge pins.
You can use the TA04 hingepin set including the low friction ones...they are a direct replacement for the 415 standard suspension hinge pins.
Ed
08-17-2004, 08:38 AM
#3315
QUestion.........
okay--- it's a stupid question.......
I know the 415 is a world class, champion and fast car!!
But anyone here, who owns a 415 and a TA04-R?
Could you make a comparison? I have hopped up my 04 to kingdom come and would love another belt car and 415 is my first choice!!!
QUestion is.......Is it worth it?
Any tweak issues? since I prefer a tub chassis (less tweak?)
Thanks!!!!
I know the 415 is a world class, champion and fast car!!
But anyone here, who owns a 415 and a TA04-R?
Could you make a comparison? I have hopped up my 04 to kingdom come and would love another belt car and 415 is my first choice!!!
QUestion is.......Is it worth it?
Any tweak issues? since I prefer a tub chassis (less tweak?)
Thanks!!!!
