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Old 08-16-2004, 03:56 PM   #3301
s2
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with 2deg hubs the d closest to the motor and the b at the rear, hovever with this setup youll have 1 degree of inboard toe-in and i dont know if this affect the car in anyway?
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:01 PM   #3302
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Quote:
Originally posted by s2
with 2deg hubs the d closest to the motor and the b at the rear, hovever with this setup youll have 1 degree of inboard toe-in and i dont know if this affect the car in anyway?
Slightly wrong there, the B block should be at the front with the D on the rear. That will give you a total of 2 degrees of toe.

Hopefully this will help.
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:07 PM   #3303
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
I have tried it on a tight indoor track, but with rubber tyres. I found that AE blue springs, and Tam whites on the rear, with medium sway bar on the front worked well. Cambers were 1.5 all round, with 5mm front and 5.5mm rear ride heights, droop at 3mm front and 5mm rear (using Yokomo gauge). Had B/D blocks on the rear (2deg toe total), and D/D on the front (0deg toe total).
All the camber links etc were as per the suspension instructions, except I'm running 0.7mm spacers under the front suspension block at the front, giving a bit of anti dive.

I was using Sorex 24R's, with med JB foam inserts, and Xray wheels (borrowed set from a fellow racer). However there was a lot of grip, as we had 1:12th cars running at the same time. In fact it was too much for my PitD20 narrow wets (what I usually run on the carpet), they were squealling all over the place, and whilst having massive grip to start, had overheated within about 3laps, and just had nothing left.

Anyway hope it helps.
Ed
How is the new suspension when compared to the stock 415 suspension on a tight carpet track?
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:07 PM   #3304
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Quote:
Originally posted by misterntc3
Can someone help i want to run 1 degree rear toe in which blocks should i be running
thanks for your help
b/d will give 3deg overall
d/b wil give 1deg overall


ps what effect will the inboard toe have?

stew
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:16 PM   #3305
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Slightly wrong there, the B block should be at the front with the D on the rear. That will give you a total of 2 degrees of toe.

Hopefully this will help.
Nice chart there... I'm going to add that to my pit box!!
-Dave
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:27 PM   #3306
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Quote:
Originally posted by s2
b/d will give 3deg overall
d/b wil give 1deg overall


ps what effect will the inboard toe have?

stew
Sorry quite right you are, read the first post wrong. Thought it said that he wanted to run the 1 deg rear toe blocks. opps.

However, if you run the D front, B rear blocks with the std hubs, as you can see in the chart, you actually end up with inboard toe out. I'm not exactly sure what effect this would have on the car, bar lengthening the wheelbase slightly (due to the angle of the arms).
However in all honestly, I would stick with at a min 2deg, I would expect 1 deg to have a very nervous rear end on it, and it may not be particulary stable in a straight line.

The lightweight arms deffiently fell faster btw, it was very noticeable in the way the car could change from direction stupid quick.

Oh and JDM, I have some other ones I use too, namely a spring chart, gearing chart, and setup crib-sheet. PM me if youd like them (there all in EXCEL btw.

Ed
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:01 PM   #3307
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TryHard,

That is a great chart. It definately will be going in my folder for set ups. If you have anything else it would be greatly appreciated. I have a spring rate chart combining all of the manufactures but that is about it.
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Old 08-16-2004, 10:33 PM   #3308
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does anyone have a rollout chart?
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:34 AM   #3309
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1190&item=59149974 90
Thanks Ngo8 but their out of stock

Looks like their ALL gone. Pay to get in quick next time.

Cheers
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Old 08-17-2004, 02:47 AM   #3310
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Quote:
Originally posted by ngo8
does anyone have a rollout chart?
I have a gearing chart, but I don't really bother with roll out, as most of the tyres I use have simiar Diamter, so the gearing is pretty much spot on most of the time.
I did however do one for my Yoko a while back, when i was running on the Proline H13 (evil tyres) that were the BRCA spec tyres. They were considerably smaller in diameter, so really screwed with the gearing....

I'll have a look tonight, see if i can remember the formula for roll out, and then might add it to my gear chart.

If any one wants a copy, just PM your email addresses, and I'll send the Excel sheets with them on.

HiH
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Old 08-17-2004, 04:20 AM   #3311
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On another note, I founs out a few things the yesterday

1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...

2) I have a feeling that the lightweight arms are desgined to be used with 24mm wheels and tyres. I use HPI 1540 tyres inddoors at Don Valley, and unfortuantly the tyres seem to rub on the front kunckle arms. I've tried shaving off some of the material on the arms, but I'm loathe ot go any further, as it might weaken the knuckle. Any ideas as to what to do here? I'm using all the spacers on the axles already.

Ed
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Old 08-17-2004, 05:13 AM   #3312
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
On another note, I founs out a few things the yesterday

1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...

2) I have a feeling that the lightweight arms are desgined to be used with 24mm wheels and tyres. I use HPI 1540 tyres inddoors at Don Valley, and unfortuantly the tyres seem to rub on the front kunckle arms. I've tried shaving off some of the material on the arms, but I'm loathe ot go any further, as it might weaken the knuckle. Any ideas as to what to do here? I'm using all the spacers on the axles already.

Ed
try the hpi pro4 hubs.
ive stripped the screw in the hubs and cant find any replacements so i will try the pro4 hubs as i heard the ackerman and steering geometry doesnt change with these.
plus the arms were the steering link goes are thinner
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Old 08-17-2004, 09:00 AM   #3313
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard

1) EVO3 suspension pins are too long for the 415, by about 2-3mm. However the pins can easily be cut dwon using a dremel...
You can use the TA04 hingepin set including the low friction ones...they are a direct replacement for the 415 standard suspension hinge pins.
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Old 08-17-2004, 09:31 AM   #3314
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Originally posted by rtypec
You can use the TA04 hingepin set including the low friction ones...they are a direct replacement for the 415 standard suspension hinge pins.
Excellent, cheers for the info. I'll use my cut down ones first... I have 8 to get through

Ed
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Old 08-17-2004, 09:38 AM   #3315
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Default QUestion.........

okay--- it's a stupid question.......

I know the 415 is a world class, champion and fast car!!

But anyone here, who owns a 415 and a TA04-R?

Could you make a comparison? I have hopped up my 04 to kingdom come and would love another belt car and 415 is my first choice!!!

QUestion is.......Is it worth it?

Any tweak issues? since I prefer a tub chassis (less tweak?)

Thanks!!!!
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