V12

iTrader: (1)

The lightweight balls are the ones supplied with the EVO3 kit. I think for the 415 should be the same. But arenīt really good.
Carbide is way better.
Ceramic even more.

FUK_WRX

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys i have not raced in carpet in a long time i was wondering if you guys have tried rubbers on carpet? I really dont want to use foam tires. I was planning to use Tamiya type a, Sorex 28R, 24R and 20R which would be better?

Any set up suggestions? I do not have any spools or front diff.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

On my MR4-TC, I found the narrow Pit D20 wets to be good, better than any slicks I had. These are coated with Jack the Gripper before the run, to help with generating grip for the first few laps. With out the addititve, it would usually take 5 laps or so for the tyres to heat up fully, however with additive, it more like 2.

I'll be able to tell you about how they go on the 415 next week, mines gonna be here soon


Hope it helps

nosNjection

When is the US going to get all the hopup like the outdrives, the belt...yadda yadda

Evo_Uk

Im having proberlys getting my rear diff built up consistantly. After its first build its nice and smooth then one or two uses and it goes all "clicky" and sticky and really unsmooth.
Im using ceramic squatt balls. I think maybe the balls couldve left dents in the diff plate causeing it to stick.

any idea?

PS: i ran stock yesterday with the belt setting at 1 click looser each side with white belts, was sooooo much better, span for AGES and no slipping! my friend Rob was alot quicker then me ( i had lots of bad luck, wait till we race at bedworth again ) he ran running 2 clicks looser and was no slipping. i may try this setting with my 19t soon also
thanks

Tarnjit

John Patterson

My son just bought a 415 recently, ran it two weekends here locally, then went to the nationals last week. Just curious why there aren't more 415s running at major events, or for that matter, at local races. Looks like a great car, Michael did pretty well finishing in 5th in the 19t class.

Barry White

The Tamiya lightweght balls are crome alloy. For more info look at the acer racing website.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

John great run by Mike in PDX. he did a good job tailending the A and finishing 5th.

As for major races and factory there are only a few supported drivers in the program. Rod and Charlie were there along with myself. There were also a few unsupported drivers besides Mike. Corey Lewis, Edgar Fiallos and Korey Harbke who switched to the 415 mid event. Great driving by all of them also

John Patterson

Thanks for the info, Difuser! Glad to hear there were several other racers running the Tamiyas. I haven't spoken to Mike in much detail yet, sorry, I could not have been there to watch the event.

Evo_Uk

so guys running the new suspension, any regrets at all? Also how easy is it to set your car up, becasue the original suspension was cool

is it worth it? does the purchase reflact in results?

thanks alot

Tarnjit

can anyone reply to my diff question?

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

John you got a great kid who represented himself well from all that I had seen. I wish I had had some time to talk with him but never got the chance. I know he spent some time with Rod though.

EVO noone here at the Nats event had the new susp pieces I wish they would have I think it would have helped the car.

As far as the clicking I have been building the diffs with a little extra thick grease on the perimeter, to act as a dust seal it help but also flings off. Have you tried new rings since putting the balls? Also when building also tighten slowly when you feel a little resistance tighten 1/4 turn then spin the outdrives to let the balls free up then repeat until tight. I run mine all the way tight and back off to desired tension. This way I can rebuild consistently and not have to worry inbetween races that the setting is not quite right.

Kenshin

It is caused by the ceramic diff balls. The eat diff rings rather quickly. Stick with carbide diff balls. Just as smooth, but easier on the rings.

John Patterson

Thanks for the nice compliments, Difuser! I have not been to this forum before until yesterday. I don't usually help Mike at all with his electric sedan racing; he takes care of building kits, chassis setup, and motor tuning, but I think he would like for me to learn how to turn an arm, cycle batteries and glue tires, lol. I have always helped him with his gas racing since you need a pitman and I also enjoy working and tuning the nitro engines and clutches.

I think Mike ran the stock suspension parts except for the rear alum uprights.

=MisFitz= NuKe

Hey guys,
thanks for the nice compliments, Anyways, big thanks to Rod Canare, Corey Lewis, and Edgar. I just wish I had stayed with the one-way all through the week. Instead, I ran the one-way in all of practice, then went to the spool before the first day of quals. and my car sucked. Then I went back to the one-way, for the next day of quals. I ended up running the one-way in the mains, with a center locked pulley.
-Mike

tcmerf

I was looking back at the Reedy race pictures and I noticed a lot of guys were not running the supports for the mid decks. What would this do? My car felt pretty good at Tamiya Saturday although i would still like to find some more on power steering. I still have not ventured far from the kit setup other than the aluminum uprights in the back. Suspension mounts are all flush except for .07 up front for a little kick up. I also switched to the red sway bars. Where do you guys start when you are tuning?
The car is so tunable it is a little unnerving.