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Old 07-13-2004, 10:38 AM   #2926
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Default Motor Problem

Not sure where to post this question, but you guys are knowledgeable I have a 17T GM GP Motor and have a really strange problem: I can accelerate well and then brake ok, but then when I go onto the throttle again, the car wont move. I have to turn the motor a little by hand and then it works ok again
When I look at the motor when it is in the "Stopped" state, when I give gas, it seems to try and move, but can't turn over. When I turn the motor by hand, there is no unusual resistance.

I've look at the internals of the motor and it looks ok. The small blocks (oh man I don't know what they're called in English hilf mir V12: wie heißen Kohlen auf Englisch? ) the things held in by the springs look ok and don't seem to be worn

Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 07-13-2004, 10:42 AM   #2927
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i think the english term you are looking for is "brush"? sounds like it is sticking. sometimes taking them out and running a pipe cleaner with some motor cleaner thru the hood (where the brush is, looks like this: [ ] )will take care of it.. or maybe try some new ones if these have been run a bit...
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Old 07-13-2004, 10:46 AM   #2928
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Quote:
Originally posted by tamiyadriver
i think the english term you are looking for is "brush"? sounds like it is sticking. sometimes taking them out and running a pipe cleaner with some motor cleaner thru the hood (where the brush is, looks like this: [ ] )will take care of it.. or maybe try some new ones if these have been run a bit...
I think I remember the word now You wouldn't think my first language was english been in Germany too long

I'll try cleaning the brushes - thanks!
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Old 07-13-2004, 10:48 AM   #2929
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no problem! i had that happen at a big race last year.. heard the tone, pulled the trigger... nothing! if someone hadnt tapped me from behind, i wouldnt have gotten to run!
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Old 07-13-2004, 10:59 AM   #2930
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Besides cleaning your brushes, you might need to replace them after awhile. They do get worn down and when they are too short your springs will no longer be able push them onto the comm effectively.
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:05 AM   #2931
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as tamiyadriver already said, the "Brushes" could stick.
Also look for the springs, maybe a spring got overheated and is too soft now. You could find out easily as the GM brushes are very hard when working OK.

Mark
Forgive me but I really had to laugh when you didnīt find the word for Kohlen. As youīre Englishman.
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:13 AM   #2932
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12

Mark
Forgive me but I really had to laugh when you didnīt find the word for Kohlen. As youīre Englishman.
I'm the biggest joke at work - I'm often asked how to write something in English from the German guys and most of the time I don't know how to write it
My biggest success so far was when my boss asked my how to write "aus persönlichen Gründen" in english - I thought for a bit and said, "oh, yes, there's away of saying this in english....hmm....after a couple of minutes I came out with "out of personal grounds" ---- a word-for-word translation from German My boss nearly hit me Now he doesn't ask any more

OH yeah, my Girlfriend has given up learning english from me - her teacher says I make too many German mistakes and my pronunciation is getting very German Ich will nach Hause
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:16 AM   #2933
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Thanks for the tips guys! I'll check to see if everything is ok. Just 2.9 weeks until i get my 415

Are the bearings good enough as standard? I was thinking of getting some Acer bearings if they aren't so good - I'm ordering some for my Serpent 710 and thought I could order some for the 415 if necessary.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:22 AM   #2934
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Thanks for the tips guys! I'll check to see if everything is ok. Just 2.9 weeks until i get my 415

Are the bearings good enough as standard? I was thinking of getting some Acer bearings if they aren't so good - I'm ordering some for my Serpent 710 and thought I could order some for the 415 if necessary.

Cheers, Mark.
Some time ago I also was thinking of the Acer bearings but these had been for the EVO3 then and some of the 415 bearings are different. With the EVO 4 itīs even worser as maybe only the 10x15 bearings for oneway and rear diff are the same.
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:27 AM   #2935
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Mark
I just think for another reason as the GM 17T is a machine wound motor. Maybe the wire of the armature lost contact to the commutator on one pole. This could happen with every machine wound armature as these arenīt soldered.
Next thing is the wire on one pole could have been broken. Both situations will have the affect as you have with your motor. The motor doesnīt turn but will turn again when you just give the armatureshaft a small push.

But this is only if checking/replacing of brushes or springs arenīt working.
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:29 AM   #2936
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Some time ago I also was thinking of the Acer bearings but these had been for the EVO3 then and some of the 415 bearings are different. With the EVO 4 itīs even worser as maybe only the 10x15 bearings for oneway and rear diff are the same.
Yeah, I saw this - do you think the bearings are better than the standard ones? I only have the standard ones for the EVO III and won't be driving it once I get my 415, so I won't be getting a set of bearings for the III and a set for the 415.
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:31 AM   #2937
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Mark
I just think for another reason as the GM 17T is a machine wound motor. Maybe the wire of the armature lost contact to the commutator on one pole. This could happen with every machine wound armature as these arenīt soldered.
Next thing is the wire on one pole could have been broken. Both situations will have the affect as you have with your motor. The motor doesnīt turn but will turn again when you just give the armatureshaft a small push.

But this is only if checking/replacing of brushes or springs arenīt working.
If the wire has no contact anymore, can it be re-soldered?
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:48 AM   #2938
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with this motor the wire isnīt soldered but clamped and you canīt fix this. But anyway usual soldering doesnīt work with the motors as it canīt stand the high temperatures. A special high temperature solder is required.

But just look for the brushes and springs. Maybe this is the problem.
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:52 AM   #2939
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rick draper could i have your set -up and feedback on the maritime track that you raced on?
i race in the summer championship and have some problems on set up.
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:40 PM   #2940
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I did not use my 415 as grip was quite low on the A tyres we have to run so i used my evo 3 locked up and that was best.

I did try my 415 on the saturday with CS22 pre glued tyres and it was spot on, that was with the following setup:

Front,
600wt shock oil,
3 hole pistons,
White springs,
shocks in middle hole on tower and outer on the arm,
4mm of spacers under inner camber link,
1.5 deg of camber,
8 deg of caster,
A block rear,
C block front,
0.5mm of anti dive,
droop set so springs do not unload off spring cups,
0.5 deg of toe out,
No roll bar.

Rear,
600wt oil,
3 hole pistons,
Blue springs,
shock in outer hole on tower and outer on arm,
1.5 deg of camber,
1 deg rear toe blocks, (outer hole on block with 0.7mm spacer)
D block rear,
B block front,
1mm spacers under the rear blocks,
droop set so springs do not unload off spring cups,
no roll bar.

Rick
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