3LikesTamiya TRF415
07-01-2004, 08:33 AM
#2791
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Nope bone stock TA04pro ones are 8 degree, 415, evo 3 and the racing front c hub set are all 4 degree ones. Rick
Nope bone stock TA04pro ones are 8 degree, 415, evo 3 and the racing front c hub set are all 4 degree ones. Rick
And Evo_Uk are you the same Tarnjit (edited) off of Racechat? Guess who.... names a hint.
Last edited by TryHard; 07-22-2004 at 04:20 PM.
07-01-2004, 09:20 AM
#2792
Tech Regular
erm...
Im definetly Tarnjit from rcracecrap ... dont know who tarjin is.... ( dont you just hate it when people get your name wrong! )
And yeah, i guessed lol
TARNJIT
Im definetly Tarnjit from rcracecrap ... dont know who tarjin is.... ( dont you just hate it when people get your name wrong! )
And yeah, i guessed lol
TARNJIT
07-01-2004, 09:35 AM
#2793
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
now that you mension rear diff i have a bit of a puzzler!
The track i run at is super fast flowing but also has some really right turns. I found the car to be really back endy at first time out then TRf driver told me that i should tighten up the rear diff more then "just until it dont slip" as its way too free ( i guess it would be awesome indoors or for twisty tracks though ), anywya i tightened my diff up and it solved the problem , car was awesome BUT the diff feels really "clicky" and not smooth at all, it wants to lock up when it click when i spin the wheel by hand. if i loosen it off, its fine.
any idea anyone?
thanks
Tarnjit
now that you mension rear diff i have a bit of a puzzler!
The track i run at is super fast flowing but also has some really right turns. I found the car to be really back endy at first time out then TRf driver told me that i should tighten up the rear diff more then "just until it dont slip" as its way too free ( i guess it would be awesome indoors or for twisty tracks though ), anywya i tightened my diff up and it solved the problem , car was awesome BUT the diff feels really "clicky" and not smooth at all, it wants to lock up when it click when i spin the wheel by hand. if i loosen it off, its fine.
any idea anyone?
thanks
Tarnjit
07-01-2004, 09:39 AM
#2795
Originally posted by TryHard
Anyway, just to check, I've gleaned from the thread there might be a few parts worth picking up at the same time as the kit. feel free to correct and errors or add anything in.
1) Rear Alu hubs (for the inboard rear toe, and camber link options)
2) 3 hole pistons
3) sets of blue and white tam springs
4) carbide balls for the rear diff
Regards
Ed
Anyway, just to check, I've gleaned from the thread there might be a few parts worth picking up at the same time as the kit. feel free to correct and errors or add anything in.
1) Rear Alu hubs (for the inboard rear toe, and camber link options)
2) 3 hole pistons
3) sets of blue and white tam springs
4) carbide balls for the rear diff
Regards
Ed
1.Front Bridge block (A) (to narrow the front end to get more steering)
2. Rear 1 degree alu hubs (you already mentioned)
3. some extra hinge pins (these bend, instead of cracking plastic)
4. extra o-rings that go inside the shock, rayspeed ones work well
5. extra diff parts.
6. extra shock towers, I hear they can break so i bought one of each
then I bought a Ti screw set from speedtech, and some other stuff, cant remember what though, lol, guess I will find out when the box gets here.
07-01-2004, 01:45 PM
#2796
Tech Master
iam having trouble with my cars handling.
i race on a tight low bite ashphelt track.
iam using cs27 with medium inserts and lrp traction additive.
cars set-up
front/back
springs;yellow/yellow
shock oil;35/40
shock position on mount;inner/2nd one in from outer
shock position on wishbone;outer/outer
spacers under top link;7mm/0mm
wheelbase;fully back/fully back
toe;2 degrees out/c-d
camber;-1.5/-1
double one ways
the trouble is the car understeers on kit settings or even with other peoples settings.
could this be due to drag brakes?
i use no drag brake bt maybe just a tiny bit would help the understeer?
the cars netral with this set up but it shouldnt be like this.
any help would be gratefull.
i race on a tight low bite ashphelt track.
iam using cs27 with medium inserts and lrp traction additive.
cars set-up
front/back
springs;yellow/yellow
shock oil;35/40
shock position on mount;inner/2nd one in from outer
shock position on wishbone;outer/outer
spacers under top link;7mm/0mm
wheelbase;fully back/fully back
toe;2 degrees out/c-d
camber;-1.5/-1
double one ways
the trouble is the car understeers on kit settings or even with other peoples settings.
could this be due to drag brakes?
i use no drag brake bt maybe just a tiny bit would help the understeer?
the cars netral with this set up but it shouldnt be like this.
any help would be gratefull.
07-01-2004, 05:27 PM
#2797
Originally posted by trf racer
iam having trouble with my cars handling.
i race on a tight low bite ashphelt track.
iam using cs27 with medium inserts and lrp traction additive.
cars set-up
front/back
springs;yellow/yellow
shock oil;35/40
shock position on mount;inner/2nd one in from outer
shock position on wishbone;outer/outer
spacers under top link;7mm/0mm
wheelbase;fully back/fully back
toe;2 degrees out/c-d
camber;-1.5/-1
double one ways
the trouble is the car understeers on kit settings or even with other peoples settings.
could this be due to drag brakes?
i use no drag brake bt maybe just a tiny bit would help the understeer?
the cars netral with this set up but it shouldnt be like this.
any help would be gratefull.
iam having trouble with my cars handling.
i race on a tight low bite ashphelt track.
iam using cs27 with medium inserts and lrp traction additive.
cars set-up
front/back
springs;yellow/yellow
shock oil;35/40
shock position on mount;inner/2nd one in from outer
shock position on wishbone;outer/outer
spacers under top link;7mm/0mm
wheelbase;fully back/fully back
toe;2 degrees out/c-d
camber;-1.5/-1
double one ways
the trouble is the car understeers on kit settings or even with other peoples settings.
could this be due to drag brakes?
i use no drag brake bt maybe just a tiny bit would help the understeer?
the cars netral with this set up but it shouldnt be like this.
any help would be gratefull.
1. front shocks should stand up more for tight tracks for more steering response.
2. less suspension link spacers in front will lower your roll center and improve steering. Stock is only 4mm
3. 2 degree toe out might compensate for lack of initial steering response but it will make your car understeer in mid corner and exit on power.
4. double one-ways? does that mean you are running one way in the rear or center?
07-02-2004, 02:50 AM
#2798
For the double oneways I think he is refering to the front and mid oneways. Rear oneway? I don't know of anyone trying that before.
07-02-2004, 03:37 AM
#2799
Tech Regular
i know someone who did , it was quite stupid lol. plus its not possible i dont think with the 415
07-02-2004, 04:52 AM
#2800
Tech Master
Originally posted by jeffreylin
My observations:
1. front shocks should stand up more for tight tracks for more steering response.
2. less suspension link spacers in front will lower your roll center and improve steering. Stock is only 4mm
3. 2 degree toe out might compensate for lack of initial steering response but it will make your car understeer in mid corner and exit on power.
4. double one-ways? does that mean you are running one way in the rear or center?
My observations:
1. front shocks should stand up more for tight tracks for more steering response.
2. less suspension link spacers in front will lower your roll center and improve steering. Stock is only 4mm
3. 2 degree toe out might compensate for lack of initial steering response but it will make your car understeer in mid corner and exit on power.
4. double one-ways? does that mean you are running one way in the rear or center?
double one ways mean centre and front.
what i was asking origially is that does this set up look a bit odd compared to others,ie this set up should have loads of steering but it doesntits neutral.
if i lay the shocks up it gives less grip.
07-02-2004, 04:54 AM
#2801
Tech Master
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
i know someone who did , it was quite stupid lol. plus its not possible i dont think with the 415
i know someone who did , it was quite stupid lol. plus its not possible i dont think with the 415
i think though that the 414 one way would fit in the back.
iam not sure as i havent tried it and to me theres no point.
07-02-2004, 08:02 AM
#2802
Originally posted by trf racer
thanks but laying the shocks down softens the suspension thus giving more front grip,less suspension link spacers raise roll centre producing less front grip bt high stabalilty.
double one ways mean centre and front.
what i was asking origially is that does this set up look a bit odd compared to others,ie this set up should have loads of steering but it doesntits neutral.
if i lay the shocks up it gives less grip.
thanks but laying the shocks down softens the suspension thus giving more front grip,less suspension link spacers raise roll centre producing less front grip bt high stabalilty.
double one ways mean centre and front.
what i was asking origially is that does this set up look a bit odd compared to others,ie this set up should have loads of steering but it doesntits neutral.
if i lay the shocks up it gives less grip.
Contrary to popular belief (and I know I'm going to get some "wtf?'s" for this one) reducing the number of spacers under the front inner camber link CAN give you more steering. The increased camber rate offsets the roll center change to a certain extent, giving you more "steering".
Edit: Also, you didn't mention your downtravel/droop settings. These can play a vital role in how your car behaves, coming in and exiting a corner. Does your car have an overall push or only under certain instances.
Another Edit: You can flip your C1 and C2 around. That will give you MAD steering...personally, I don't do this
Last edited by rtypec; 07-02-2004 at 08:14 AM.
07-02-2004, 03:38 PM
#2803
EVOIV Sus arm conversion
Hey guys just picked up the conversion set the other day and I am going to take the car out to test this sunday
..a few things for your future EVO4 guys to know... the bearing size is a Odd one 950`s front and rear..??
and the Axles are really short.. so no Ti action on them ........yet 
but I Know Square is in the works for them.
I`ll post a pic of the conversion set for you all in a bit..
-Dave
..a few things for your future EVO4 guys to know... the bearing size is a Odd one 950`s front and rear..?? and the Axles are really short.. so no Ti action on them ........yet but I Know Square is in the works for them. I`ll post a pic of the conversion set for you all in a bit..
-Dave
07-02-2004, 03:53 PM
#2804
@ JDM_DOHC_SiR
what is included in the kit?
Just got the message my suspension kit is on itīs way but I think I will have to wait until end of next week.
I have heard before about these small bearings to be used on the EVO4 and I couldnīt believe this. I had this bearing size with a different car before and you had to change all the time.
Maybe Iīm selling the kit again as I donīt want messing around with those bearing again. But if Square maybe will be making hubs for a different size....
what is included in the kit?
Just got the message my suspension kit is on itīs way but I think I will have to wait until end of next week.
I have heard before about these small bearings to be used on the EVO4 and I couldnīt believe this. I had this bearing size with a different car before and you had to change all the time.
Maybe Iīm selling the kit again as I donīt want messing around with those bearing again. But if Square maybe will be making hubs for a different size....
07-02-2004, 04:05 PM
#2805
Originally posted by V12
JDM_DOHC_SiR
what is included in the kit?
JDM_DOHC_SiR
what is included in the kit?
1 set of sus arms
2 sets of front c-hubs 2d & 4d
1 set of rear hubs
1 set of steering knuckles
1 set of 46mm blue alloy dogbones
1 set of 46mm steel dongbones
8 , 950 sized bearings
2 one way drive cups ..seem to be a bit shorter than the normal ones
1 bag of shims
3 sets of tie rod ends
thats about it..
-Dave