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Old 07-01-2004, 09:33 AM   #2791
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Nope bone stock TA04pro ones are 8 degree, 415, evo 3 and the racing front c hub set are all 4 degree ones. Rick
Doh, guess this answers my 2nd post, then again it was quite late by the time i got to this page last night.....

And Evo_Uk are you the same Tarnjit (edited) off of Racechat? Guess who.... names a hint.
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Last edited by TryHard; 07-22-2004 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 07-01-2004, 10:20 AM   #2792
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erm...

Im definetly Tarnjit from rcracecrap ... dont know who tarjin is.... ( dont you just hate it when people get your name wrong! )

And yeah, i guessed lol

TARNJIT
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Old 07-01-2004, 10:35 AM   #2793
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
now that you mension rear diff i have a bit of a puzzler!

The track i run at is super fast flowing but also has some really right turns. I found the car to be really back endy at first time out then TRf driver told me that i should tighten up the rear diff more then "just until it dont slip" as its way too free ( i guess it would be awesome indoors or for twisty tracks though ), anywya i tightened my diff up and it solved the problem , car was awesome BUT the diff feels really "clicky" and not smooth at all, it wants to lock up when it click when i spin the wheel by hand. if i loosen it off, its fine.

any idea anyone?

thanks

Tarnjit
huh, guess that explains why my car started to spin out when the diff bolt backed out in the main last sunday, lol, at least I now know what the problem was.
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Old 07-01-2004, 10:38 AM   #2794
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Whoops sorry Tarnjit, it's kida like when people spell my surname with an e (clarke instead of clark), narks me off something cronic....

racecrap...hehehe, if a little harsh...
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Old 07-01-2004, 10:39 AM   #2795
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard

Anyway, just to check, I've gleaned from the thread there might be a few parts worth picking up at the same time as the kit. feel free to correct and errors or add anything in.

1) Rear Alu hubs (for the inboard rear toe, and camber link options)
2) 3 hole pistons
3) sets of blue and white tam springs
4) carbide balls for the rear diff


Regards
Ed
well, I just picked up my car last week, and did not buy anything with the kit. I raced it on saturday and sunday, and did not need anything that was not already included...BUT!!!....I would get:
1.Front Bridge block (A) (to narrow the front end to get more steering)
2. Rear 1 degree alu hubs (you already mentioned)
3. some extra hinge pins (these bend, instead of cracking plastic)
4. extra o-rings that go inside the shock, rayspeed ones work well
5. extra diff parts.
6. extra shock towers, I hear they can break so i bought one of each

then I bought a Ti screw set from speedtech, and some other stuff, cant remember what though, lol, guess I will find out when the box gets here.
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Old 07-01-2004, 02:45 PM   #2796
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iam having trouble with my cars handling.
i race on a tight low bite ashphelt track.
iam using cs27 with medium inserts and lrp traction additive.
cars set-up
front/back
springs;yellow/yellow
shock oil;35/40
shock position on mount;inner/2nd one in from outer
shock position on wishbone;outer/outer
spacers under top link;7mm/0mm
wheelbase;fully back/fully back
toe;2 degrees out/c-d
camber;-1.5/-1
double one ways

the trouble is the car understeers on kit settings or even with other peoples settings.
could this be due to drag brakes?
i use no drag brake bt maybe just a tiny bit would help the understeer?
the cars netral with this set up but it shouldnt be like this.
any help would be gratefull.
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Old 07-01-2004, 06:27 PM   #2797
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
iam having trouble with my cars handling.
i race on a tight low bite ashphelt track.
iam using cs27 with medium inserts and lrp traction additive.
cars set-up
front/back
springs;yellow/yellow
shock oil;35/40
shock position on mount;inner/2nd one in from outer
shock position on wishbone;outer/outer
spacers under top link;7mm/0mm
wheelbase;fully back/fully back
toe;2 degrees out/c-d
camber;-1.5/-1
double one ways

the trouble is the car understeers on kit settings or even with other peoples settings.
could this be due to drag brakes?
i use no drag brake bt maybe just a tiny bit would help the understeer?
the cars netral with this set up but it shouldnt be like this.
any help would be gratefull.
My observations:

1. front shocks should stand up more for tight tracks for more steering response.
2. less suspension link spacers in front will lower your roll center and improve steering. Stock is only 4mm
3. 2 degree toe out might compensate for lack of initial steering response but it will make your car understeer in mid corner and exit on power.
4. double one-ways? does that mean you are running one way in the rear or center?
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:50 AM   #2798
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For the double oneways I think he is refering to the front and mid oneways. Rear oneway? I don't know of anyone trying that before.
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Old 07-02-2004, 04:37 AM   #2799
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i know someone who did , it was quite stupid lol. plus its not possible i dont think with the 415
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:52 AM   #2800
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
My observations:

1. front shocks should stand up more for tight tracks for more steering response.
2. less suspension link spacers in front will lower your roll center and improve steering. Stock is only 4mm
3. 2 degree toe out might compensate for lack of initial steering response but it will make your car understeer in mid corner and exit on power.
4. double one-ways? does that mean you are running one way in the rear or center?
thanks but laying the shocks down softens the suspension thus giving more front grip,less suspension link spacers raise roll centre producing less front grip bt high stabalilty.
double one ways mean centre and front.
what i was asking origially is that does this set up look a bit odd compared to others,ie this set up should have loads of steering but it doesntits neutral.
if i lay the shocks up it gives less grip.
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:54 AM   #2801
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
i know someone who did , it was quite stupid lol. plus its not possible i dont think with the 415
even though there would be no advantage to it as far as i can see,
i think though that the 414 one way would fit in the back.
iam not sure as i havent tried it and to me theres no point.
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Old 07-02-2004, 09:02 AM   #2802
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
thanks but laying the shocks down softens the suspension thus giving more front grip,less suspension link spacers raise roll centre producing less front grip bt high stabalilty.
double one ways mean centre and front.
what i was asking origially is that does this set up look a bit odd compared to others,ie this set up should have loads of steering but it doesntits neutral.
if i lay the shocks up it gives less grip.
Standing the shocks up will make the car more responsive and the chassis will take a "set" going into corners more quickly. Try standing them up and then...go down in dampening if you feel like it. Also, during the Reedy Race, the TRF drivers had an extra set of holes drilled into their rear shock towers. This added some steering but suprisingly did not take away any stability out of the rear. I have a set but have not used it or found a situtation that would justify me gluing/sanding/polishing the tower...yet

Contrary to popular belief (and I know I'm going to get some "wtf?'s" for this one) reducing the number of spacers under the front inner camber link CAN give you more steering. The increased camber rate offsets the roll center change to a certain extent, giving you more "steering".

Edit: Also, you didn't mention your downtravel/droop settings. These can play a vital role in how your car behaves, coming in and exiting a corner. Does your car have an overall push or only under certain instances.

Another Edit: You can flip your C1 and C2 around. That will give you MAD steering...personally, I don't do this

Last edited by rtypec; 07-02-2004 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 07-02-2004, 04:38 PM   #2803
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Wink EVOIV Sus arm conversion

Hey guys just picked up the conversion set the other day and I am going to take the car out to test this sunday..a few things for your future EVO4 guys to know... the bearing size is a Odd one 950`s front and rear..?? and the Axles are really short.. so no Ti action on them ........yet but I Know Square is in the works for them.

I`ll post a pic of the conversion set for you all in a bit..
-Dave
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Old 07-02-2004, 04:53 PM   #2804
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@ JDM_DOHC_SiR
what is included in the kit?

Just got the message my suspension kit is on it´s way but I think I will have to wait until end of next week.

I have heard before about these small bearings to be used on the EVO4 and I couldn´t believe this. I had this bearing size with a different car before and you had to change all the time.
Maybe I´m selling the kit again as I don´t want messing around with those bearing again. But if Square maybe will be making hubs for a different size....
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Old 07-02-2004, 05:05 PM   #2805
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
JDM_DOHC_SiR
what is included in the kit?

Well the kit comes with EVERYTHING!!
1 set of sus arms
2 sets of front c-hubs 2d & 4d
1 set of rear hubs
1 set of steering knuckles
1 set of 46mm blue alloy dogbones
1 set of 46mm steel dongbones
8 , 950 sized bearings
2 one way drive cups ..seem to be a bit shorter than the normal ones
1 bag of shims
3 sets of tie rod ends

thats about it..
-Dave
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