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Old 06-30-2004, 02:02 PM   #2776
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Quote:
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
there is enough room to fit a second locked pulley? I am not seeing it, or are you modifying the second pulley to fit in the same amount of space the one way did? Also, are you grinding a flat spot on the shaft for the set-screw?
-Mike
Mike,

i did this getting ready for reedy.. you can fit another locked pulley on there. one pulley tho will have to slide into the bulkhead. loosen the bulkhead (the one that doesnt hold the motor) and slide it outwards... then assemble the entire center portion..then slide back in. its kinda tricky.. but enough room to do. hope this helps.

- Chris
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Old 06-30-2004, 02:10 PM   #2777
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i was just browsing the tamiya japan site... new stuff released for the 415.

Item 53704 TRF415 Lightweight One-way Cup Joint
Item 53706 TRF415 Low Friction Belt (Front)
Item 53707 TRF415 Low Friction Belt (Rear)
Item 53708 TRF415 Direct Center Pulley
Item 49342 TRF415 Motor Mount Bulkhead (Heat Sink Type)
Item 49343 TRF415 Belt Stabilizer
Item 49344 TRF415 Heat Sink Beam
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Old 06-30-2004, 02:24 PM   #2778
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Quote:
Originally posted by Paul_Kultcha
Someone posted a few pages back that the TA04 blocks - the 8 degree blocks - where actually the same as the stock TRF415 blocks. The difference in Castor comes in the amount built into the chassis mounted toe blocks and the spacers underneath (amount of anti-squat).
Nope bone stock TA04pro ones are 8 degree, 415, evo 3 and the racing front c hub set are all 4 degree ones. Rick
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Old 06-30-2004, 03:08 PM   #2779
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now im confused
PS: i just TQ'ed our 19t meeting
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Old 06-30-2004, 03:26 PM   #2780
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Thumbs up

thank you very much to tamiyadriver.

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Old 06-30-2004, 03:52 PM   #2781
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Post Blocks

curious... what kind of blocks are you guys using up front?

C / A ?
B / A ?
A / A ?
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Old 06-30-2004, 04:21 PM   #2782
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
i was just browsing the tamiya japan site... new stuff released for the 415.

Item 53704 TRF415 Lightweight One-way Cup Joint
Item 53706 TRF415 Low Friction Belt (Front)
Item 53707 TRF415 Low Friction Belt (Rear)
Item 53708 TRF415 Direct Center Pulley
Item 49342 TRF415 Motor Mount Bulkhead (Heat Sink Type)
Item 49343 TRF415 Belt Stabilizer
Item 49344 TRF415 Heat Sink Beam
Yep July 9th on sale
-Dave
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Old 06-30-2004, 04:23 PM   #2783
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Try 50870 for 8 Blocks.

I use C/A up front.
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Old 06-30-2004, 04:40 PM   #2784
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Quote:
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
there is enough room to fit a second locked pulley? I am not seeing it, or are you modifying the second pulley to fit in the same amount of space the one way did? Also, are you grinding a flat spot on the shaft for the set-screw?
-Mike
i did file a flat on the shaft... and filed down the spur hub a bit, and one of the pulleys, too. ill see if i can find a pic. its prolly on my pc at home, so it'll be this evening.

i actually went back to the oneway setup on the primary car to be ready for the Memphis TCS race... although, ill prolly run the 414 anyway.
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Old 06-30-2004, 05:05 PM   #2785
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Hi all,
Right. First post in here me thinks...
I've only just got back into Rcing after having spent a few years away, and the YokoMR4-TC (belt version... good for a front 415 diff!) i have is a little on the out dated side, so I've begun looking for new car. Oringially I was swayed by the Pro4, then the T1-FK, but then i found out about speedtech and the price of importing kits.... so I started to consider the TRF415 too.

I've just spent most of the day reading through the thread, and I have to say, there will be a new member to the club as soon as speedtech get some back in stock

What really helped was, purely by chance, meeting Ben Cosgrove earlier this week, and he mentioned about how good the car felt over the xray, and the results speak for themselves....

Anyway, just to check, I've gleaned from the thread there might be a few parts worth picking up at the same time as the kit. feel free to correct and errors or add anything in.

1) Rear Alu hubs (for the inboard rear toe, and camber link options)
2) 3 hole pistons
3) sets of blue and white tam springs
4) carbide balls for the rear diff

I've looked at the spool too, but i might wait on that until the fixed lay shaft is out, as too be honest all my racing at the mo is indoors, and i've run double one-ways in the yok for as long as i can remember (even when racing indoors on slippy wood floor ), so i'm quite happy driving with them.

I have to say I deffiently feel like i've learnt alot about the car today, from reading through the thread, makes me quite excited......

Regards
Ed
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Old 06-30-2004, 05:09 PM   #2786
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Default 8 deg hubs

As an add on wont the TA04 8deg hubs actually provide 6deg on the 415?
My reasoning is form what Rick posted earlier....
Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
I hate to upset you all but there is no 6 degree front C hub. Me and jonny boy were looking at them today and cracked open a 415 hub carrier set and also a TA04 racing hub carrier set and the sprues both had exactly the same part numbers on. The reason the TA04 racing set is labled as a 6 degree set is the fact a TA04 has 2 Degrees of kickup on the wishbone meaning it has 4 degrees on the C hub and 2 Degrees of kickup = 6 Degrees. Rick
So 8 deg - 2deg (kickup) = 6 deg

just a thought...
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Old 06-30-2004, 05:31 PM   #2787
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Nope bone stock TA04pro ones are 8 degree, 415, evo 3 and the racing front c hub set are all 4 degree ones. Rick
Rick Draper,

Thank you for the info!
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Old 06-30-2004, 05:36 PM   #2788
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whats the belt stabilzer and sink beam all about
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Old 06-30-2004, 05:41 PM   #2789
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
whats the belt stabilzer and sink beam all about
The belt Stabilizer is basicaly a belt tension bearing that bolts on under the upper deck where the ant. mounts...I belive it`s so you can run your belts a tad bit losser..?? who knows and the heat sink beam is a nice little finned bar that goes between the rear bulkheads that...well acts as a heak sink and a stiffener at the same time.. be belive it`s a trick By Tamiya to make getting the rear diff out or adjusting rear belt tension more difficult j/k
-Dave
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Old 07-01-2004, 02:39 AM   #2790
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now that you mension rear diff i have a bit of a puzzler!

The track i run at is super fast flowing but also has some really right turns. I found the car to be really back endy at first time out then TRf driver told me that i should tighten up the rear diff more then "just until it dont slip" as its way too free ( i guess it would be awesome indoors or for twisty tracks though ), anywya i tightened my diff up and it solved the problem , car was awesome BUT the diff feels really "clicky" and not smooth at all, it wants to lock up when it click when i spin the wheel by hand. if i loosen it off, its fine.

any idea anyone?

thanks

Tarnjit
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