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Old 02-09-2010, 04:33 AM   #20776
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The MSXX deck is thinner than the MRE. I would like to confirm if it's 2mm or 2.25mm...

And yes, the TA05 sway-bar kit fits the MSX and later and includes all hardware and 6 different bars. You can buy them in rainbow colors 53842, black 49383, or milky blue 49414...



OH, It's a good news.
Thanks a lot.
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:25 AM   #20777
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A question about front uprights on the 415msxx...

I broke the stock ones, #51103, is #51296 a direct replacement?

Or will I need to change the bearings in the upright too? (I want to avoid this if I can)...

ty
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:26 PM   #20778
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
A question about front uprights on the 415msxx...

I broke the stock ones, #51103, is #51296 a direct replacement?

Or will I need to change the bearings in the upright too? (I want to avoid this if I can)...

ty

Those are a direct replacment for your stock carbon ones (950 bearings and all). The IFS had a cheaper plastic version of the same lightweight suspension of the 415. Keep in mind these steering knuckles are softer/flexier...

I even keep a set of IFS arms (51297 long "plastic" arms) on hand in case I break all my carbon ones. They get the job done in a pinch and cost half as much for twice as many. If you run the short arms, you can get the plastic version of them too from the TB03 (51353).
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:42 PM   #20779
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Was messing around w/ the camera at work today, and snapped this photo. Car has many years of racing on it. It originally started life as an MSX MRE that I bought used off this site. I just finished updated it to MSXX-MRE status. I didn't buy the left bulkhead, but rather shave the original MRE one to lift it off the deck and even up the flex. I've also shaved the right bulkhead and center "T" post to accomodate the Intellect 3800/35C lipo. I even took the extra time to file, glue, sand & polish each of the carbon pieces. Some came out nicer than others. Too bad it's running on asphalt. I will take better photos after I get the receiver and new lower shock hex-balls on it...

Short arms will be the next mod. Need to drill holes for the split 1C blocks at the front though...


Last edited by 94eg!; 02-09-2010 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:23 PM   #20780
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Very nice! Do you have any shots of the right side bulkhead without the battery in? I would like to see where you shaved material to fit the battery.
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:01 PM   #20781
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Very nice! Do you have any shots of the right side bulkhead without the battery in? I would like to see where you shaved material to fit the battery.
I don't have one, but I can show the pic I followed to make it work. You need to modify the 3 spots circled in red, as well as the roof of the center post (behind the right-most circle). I also spaced the upper deck screw in that circle out with a 1.5mm spacer to keep it from sticking out the bottom of the center post (you can see this in my pic above). A hand file works best cause it cuts a lot flatter and more consistent than a dremel. Just be sure to go deep enough to give yourself at least .5mm of clearance over top of the pack. When driving, the chassis twist will cause the center brace will cut into the pack case and cause a little damage (just cosmetic).

I found that removing the labels from the top and bottom of the battery pack helped quite a bit to lay the pack lower and get extra clearance.



BTW: If you want to run your battery wires under the top deck as I've done, you need to dremel the crap out of the upper deck. I've cut into the bottom side at an angle, and the 12 gauge wires have been flattened a bit to clear without stress. I'm sure a lot of people will cry fowl on this technique, but I got this upper deck cheap and didn't want to re-wire my ESC from it's round-cell setup.
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:41 AM   #20782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
Was messing around w/ the camera at work today, and snapped this photo. Car has many years of racing on it. It originally started life as an MSX MRE that I bought used off this site. I just finished updated it to MSXX-MRE status. I didn't buy the left bulkhead, but rather shave the original MRE one to lift it off the deck and even up the flex. I've also shaved the right bulkhead and center "T" post to accomodate the Intellect 3800/35C lipo. I even took the extra time to file, glue, sand & polish each of the carbon pieces. Some came out nicer than others. Too bad it's running on asphalt. I will take better photos after I get the receiver and new lower shock hex-balls on it...

Short arms will be the next mod. Need to drill holes for the split 1C blocks at the front though...


Very nice car!
Wich Battery hav you installed on this picture?
Will post a pic of mine with my new SXX SP Speedo installed.

Greetz Rainer!
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:17 AM   #20783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
Those are a direct replacment for your stock carbon ones (950 bearings and all). The IFS had a cheaper plastic version of the same lightweight suspension of the 415. Keep in mind these steering knuckles are softer/flexier...

I even keep a set of IFS arms (51297 long "plastic" arms) on hand in case I break all my carbon ones. They get the job done in a pinch and cost half as much for twice as many. If you run the short arms, you can get the plastic version of them too from the TB03 (51353).

Awesome, just what I needed to hear!!!

Thanks for the reply!
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:20 AM   #20784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Very nice car!
Wich Battery hav you installed on this picture?
Will post a pic of mine with my new SXX SP Speedo installed.

Greetz Rainer!
+1, Very nice car!

how much toe out is on the front? looks quite a lot! I had my car set like that when I was lacking steering, to try and get the car to turn in quicker.

For me though, it scrubbed the tyres up pretty hard.
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:45 AM   #20785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Very nice car!
Wich Battery hav you installed on this picture?
Will post a pic of mine with my new SXX SP Speedo installed.

Greetz Rainer!
It says it in the post you quoted. Intellect 3800mah/35C...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
+1, Very nice car!

how much toe out is on the front? looks quite a lot! I had my car set like that when I was lacking steering, to try and get the car to turn in quicker.

For me though, it scrubbed the tyres up pretty hard.
It does look like a lot, but your actually seeing a bit of distortion from the cameral lens. It's nowhere near the 3* used on the back. I would sy between 1 to 2 degrees. Unfortunately I have no way of measuring (at least I don't know of one). I wonder if I can use a camber gauge with the car sitting pointing nose down?
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:16 AM   #20786
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ah ok, sure looks good to roll...

Mines been suprisingly reliable on carpet.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...6&id=527746621

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...b&id=527746621
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:34 AM   #20787
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ah ok, sure looks good to roll...

Mines been suprisingly reliable on carpet.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...6&id=527746621

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...b&id=527746621
Looks really nice. I wish I could go brushless, but cannot afford a stock-spec ESC. I already have a GTB system, but they are way too big.

BTW: I see you have a standard MSXX. Can you tell me if the upper and lower deck are the same thickness (2mm)? Also, did you already do the motor mount modification (shave ~1mm off the bottom) to even up the chassis flex?

http://www.thard.co.uk/415/tips/images/2007-8.jpg
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:32 PM   #20788
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Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
Looks really nice. I wish I could go brushless, but cannot afford a stock-spec ESC. I already have a GTB system, but they are way too big.

BTW: I see you have a standard MSXX. Can you tell me if the upper and lower deck are the same thickness (2mm)? Also, did you already do the motor mount modification (shave ~1mm off the bottom) to even up the chassis flex?

http://www.thard.co.uk/415/tips/images/2007-8.jpg
Thanks

I was with Tekin up until the end of last year (I was with the team 3.5 years) but felt I needed to spend time with family this year as I would not be with them for half of it(!!), so time with them was going to be limited.

As soon as I switched from brushed to brushless, the difference was night and day. I'm really enjoying using the RS

Ah, top/main deck thicknesses.... got a feeling the top deck is as thick as the MRE and the main deck is thinner, but it is only a guess.

If I remember to, the next time i'm racing i'll ask to borrow a mates digital caliper. Then we will know for sure what both are. Im pretty sure its only the MRE that uses a thicker lower chassis, the specs of the msxx were on the box... I think.

It still works well indoors on foam, you just need to have a good call on springs, oil, rebound and droop to get the car working well.

I built the car exactly to manual spec, except add spacers to the front hex's, so the foams do not foul the ball cups. its been nice to wrench and race once the setup is there
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Last edited by tc3team; 02-10-2010 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:00 PM   #20789
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Personally I've been having a tough time consistently setting/measuring/understanding droop. For the first time last night I actually measured how much uptravel I have at the chassis front & rear. I think this will really help me to get me repeatable results (especially with varying ride heights). With a ride height of 4.5mm front and 5mm rear, My current droop setting allows the following:

Front: Chassis lifts 5.5mm before tires loose contact
Rear: Chassis lifts 7mm before tires loose contact

Can you (or anybody else) possibly comment and/or make suggestions on this setting? I'm running Outdoor, super tight soda-prepped parking lot (asphalt), Sorex/Jaco SJR premounts and Paragon FX2 additive. Everything else is standard MSXX-MRE settings...
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:48 AM   #20790
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90+% of my racing is indoors on carpet, usually foams so i'm no use to you unfortunately
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