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Old 06-16-2009, 09:00 AM   #20581
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For a outdoor asphalt parking lot race, what's a good starting point for droop? I looked at Jilles ETS setup and he uses 6mm downstop with a 5mm RH. So is that roughly 1mm over RH?

BTW, I'm running the 415 MSX with the short suspension arms.
Typically that means that it's 6mm from the underside of the chassis pan, up to the bottom of the suspension arm. It could also mean the bottom of the outer hinge pin. It really depends on how droop was originally measured. There are many different ways to do it. Typically a higher number means less droop, while a lower number means more.

4 front & 5 rear is what I was told to run. This means the front arms hang 1mm lower than the rear...
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:56 PM   #20582
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Default 415ms

Guys,just wondering I switched out the front diff for a one-way and now one of the front cvds seems to bind up the steering when in just the right spot!What could this be?
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:38 PM   #20583
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Guys,just wondering I switched out the front diff for a one-way and now one of the front cvds seems to bind up the steering when in just the right spot!What could this be?
Check that the outdrive is located properly, sounds like one of them is sitting out of the one-way.
To stop them moving, put either an o-ring, or a bit of shock foam (the red bushing) into the outdrive.

HiH
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:03 PM   #20584
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Default Gearing for Team Orion 10.5R

anyone run BL Team Orion Vortex 10.5R? May i know what will be the best ratio to run? I currently running a TRF415MSXX (Converted from MRE), and final drive ratio of 5.88, high speed seems not fast enough
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:42 PM   #20585
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Default gearing

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anyone run BL Team Orion Vortex 10.5R? May i know what will be the best ratio to run? I currently running a TRF415MSXX (Converted from MRE), and final drive ratio of 5.88, high speed seems not fast enough
HI I run at 4.6 at our longer track and 4.9 at the tighter track , check the temp though as they are NOT tollerant to heat.

Mark M
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:28 AM   #20586
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HI I run at 4.6 at our longer track and 4.9 at the tighter track , check the temp though as they are NOT tollerant to heat.

Mark M
That is very low, i am running 5.88

4.6 wont it affect the top speed? I thought longer track should have higher FGR to get higher top speed?
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:34 AM   #20587
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what belts should i use if i run 36T pulleys for front n rear n 18T center pulleys..? thanks...
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:40 AM   #20588
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Cyclone front belt and T2, T2'007 rear belt
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:06 AM   #20589
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That is very low, i am running 5.88

4.6 wont it affect the top speed? I thought longer track should have higher FGR to get higher top speed?
Actually you've got it backwards. A lower FD means you get more top-speed. A higher final drive gets you more torque...

Longer gears = numerically lower
Shorter gears = numerically higher
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:49 AM   #20590
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Cyclone front belt and T2, T2'007 rear belt
thanks...
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:19 PM   #20591
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Default 415 MS

I ran my 415 for the first time last night and I broke a RF arm and pulled the screw out the bottom of the c hub or some call it upright.Does anyone make a aftermarket c hub or would you suggest sticking with the stock one and just stop hitting the wall?
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:59 PM   #20592
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I ran my 415 for the first time last night and I broke a RF arm and pulled the screw out the bottom of the c hub or some call it upright.Does anyone make a aftermarket c hub or would you suggest sticking with the stock one and just stop hitting the wall?
Use an 3x10mm button head screw instead of the same size countersunk screw, up into the bottom of the knuckle. The extra thread will keep it from falling out. I pre-tap my knuckles before installing, and I've never had one of these button-head screws fall out.
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:35 AM   #20593
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Can anyone point me to a guide to understand the suspension blocks, I want to increase my track width but need to understand all the 1XA 1E 1X 1D etc etc.....
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:35 AM   #20594
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Have a look here

http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:46 PM   #20595
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Use an 3x10mm button head screw instead of the same size countersunk screw, up into the bottom of the knuckle. The extra thread will keep it from falling out. I pre-tap my knuckles before installing, and I've never had one of these button-head screws fall out.
Thank you,one other question,Do I need to convert to HB knuckles or find different hex adapters to run my larger VTA tires so they stop rubbing?
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