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Old 03-21-2009, 07:17 PM   #20326
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Sorry, I edited it your quote .... so it look bigger and clearer now.

So, how is the handling after using one ? ...... I mean compare to ball diff ?






i found this picture long time ago......... i think you have to change the rear CVA into 44 mm instead of using 46mm
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:59 PM   #20327
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I know this is 415 thread but just want to ask if the gear diff will fit in the 416we? Whats the pulley T on that? 37T?
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Old 03-21-2009, 10:03 PM   #20328
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I know this is 415 thread but just want to ask if the gear diff will fit in the 416we? Whats the pulley T on that? 37T?
dameetz
I think you will find that the 416 is not quit wide enough (26.8mm) at the rear bulk head. 46mm swing arms are fine.
Steven
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Old 03-22-2009, 05:05 PM   #20329
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Default GEAR RATIO QUESTION

i am running 540 class with my TRF 415 msx
(awsome car)

i currently run a 72 spur 36 pinion and gearing is spot on.

Johnson can motor club races only and the motor i just threw on the dyno and it has about 18000rpm

I just picked up a red dot motor of somebody here in Australia and it turns around 21700rpm and peak amp of around 5.23

what should i adjust my gearing to for me to run the better motor? or should i leave it as is?
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Old 03-23-2009, 03:00 AM   #20330
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Originally Posted by chrisk View Post
i am running 540 class with my TRF 415 msx
(awsome car)

i currently run a 72 spur 36 pinion and gearing is spot on.

Johnson can motor club races only and the motor i just threw on the dyno and it has about 18000rpm

I just picked up a red dot motor of somebody here in Australia and it turns around 21700rpm and peak amp of around 5.23

what should i adjust my gearing to for me to run the better motor? or should i leave it as is?

If I were you, I will leave it like that, and enjoy more top speed.
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Old 03-24-2009, 03:20 AM   #20331
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Default short arms

Hi people I recieved an order from O/S and Ive been sent the short arms (X) pattern instead of the std type MSXX MRE (Y) pattern , my question is does anybody use them and how does it change the cars handling.
Im using 1B/1A Front mounts and 1XC 1D rear mounts and run on low/med asphalt ....long sweeping track.

Thanks Mark
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:31 AM   #20332
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I heard that the short arms hook the car up and help with traction. But cause they are short arms you may need shorter shafts or different blocks that are wider
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Old 03-24-2009, 06:10 AM   #20333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisk View Post
I heard that the short arms hook the car up and help with traction. But cause they are short arms you may need shorter shafts or different blocks that are wider
Yeah that seems to be the case but do I have to shim or use spacers somewhere to keep the same track width or run a slightly narrower car ?

Questions questions.
thanks Mark

Adelaide
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Old 03-24-2009, 08:43 AM   #20334
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If you have the parts, you should switch to the same blocks found on the 416 Worlds Edition...
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:07 PM   #20335
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ok i was out practicing today and i got a funny rear grip problem

when i come out of a corner and start to put the power on again the rear wants to come around !!!

tried moving my 5 cells to the rear but no help

i am running a 10.5 turn LRP brushless with yellow rear springs and white front with 350wt oil in the shocks

Vtec 27 tyres and ride hight of 5mm front and 5.5 rear droop is 6mm front and 5mm rear (measured on droop blocks and measured under arms

racing on medium grip smooth tarmac

cheeRS phil
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Old 03-24-2009, 03:59 PM   #20336
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
ok i was out practicing today and i got a funny rear grip problem

when i come out of a corner and start to put the power on again the rear wants to come around !!!

tried moving my 5 cells to the rear but no help

i am running a 10.5 turn LRP brushless with yellow rear springs and white front with 350wt oil in the shocks

Vtec 27 tyres and ride hight of 5mm front and 5.5 rear droop is 6mm front and 5mm rear (measured on droop blocks and measured under arms

racing on medium grip smooth tarmac

cheeRS phil
Hi

I would try 4mm front droop to let it put more weight to rear on power

See ya
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Old 03-25-2009, 03:05 AM   #20337
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Hi

I would try 4mm front droop to let it put more weight to rear on power

See ya
He's correct and ..........use 50wt in the front

Try setting your droop with verniers from the top of the axle next to the hex
24.5mm front 25mm rear

Also be carefull that your softish spring rate has'nt cooked your rear tyres.

Cya Mark
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:53 AM   #20338
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He's correct and ..........use 50wt in the front
with how many holes in the pistons ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by penmark67 View Post
Try setting your droop with verniers from the top of the axle next to the hex
24.5mm front 25mm rear
can you show me a piccy ?? and do you rest the car on droop blocks ??

Quote:
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Also be carefull that your softish spring rate has'nt cooked your rear tyres.
they were new tyres just scrubbed in the lack of grip was from the start of my practice
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Old 03-25-2009, 12:34 PM   #20339
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This weekend is the first points race for the Reedy race. Winner gets their entry paid for if they win their class. Can't wait to run the car again and get some more track time with it on asphalt. The weather is looking real good for this weekend. It's suppose to be a high of 79 so I'm assuming the track temp will be triple digits. Should be awesome.
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Old 03-25-2009, 12:37 PM   #20340
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to droop the tamiya we use the David Jun method:

set car with chassis on setup board, no blocks, no tires, nothing.

measure the distance between the setup board and the top of each axle using the depth measuring part of your calipers


I usually end up with about 26mm in the rear
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