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Old 02-11-2009, 06:53 AM   #20206
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Default 415 belt issues

Hi guys I wonder anyone can help ?

I have a 415msx mre and I am running 6 cell nimh's, 4.0 brushless motor with foam tires on a asphalt track, I am having serious belt issues, everytime I take the car out it strips either the front or back belt ! I have tried the std belts and the low friction belts none last !! is this because the car was not designed for this horse power or what ?

or is there other belts that I could fit that will work ???
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:05 AM   #20207
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Hi guys I wonder anyone can help ?

I have a 415msx mre and I am running 6 cell nimh's, 4.0 brushless motor with foam tires on a asphalt track, I am having serious belt issues, everytime I take the car out it strips either the front or back belt ! I have tried the std belts and the low friction belts none last !! is this because the car was not designed for this horse power or what ?

or is there other belts that I could fit that will work ???
The only thing I can think of is how thick are your cell bars? they might be close to the belt and wearing them. How long are the belts lasting?

Also make sure there is nothing stuck in the teeth of the differentials. side play should be minimal.
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:18 AM   #20208
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tx for the prompt response,

there is sufficient clearence for the belt and there is no debris on any of the pully's, I think posibly its just too much power for the belts to handle??? the last rear belt only lasted 3 minutes !!!!!! but I think the rear diff teeth had somthing to do with that

the belts are just ripping the teeth off

I have in the mean time ordered new pully's belts and diff pullys's basically replacing the entire internal drive components!
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:22 AM   #20209
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Also, if you are using the aluminum pulleys, theyu can wear the teeth of the belt quicker so ive heard, as the edges can turn sharp

Bad teeth of any kind are not good, so you are doing the right thing by getting them changed first.

I've had a set of belts on a stock powered ta05 last for 3 seasons, they've stretched a bit, but no problem so maybe see if you can tame the motor down a little on the starting power too, and see if that helps.
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:36 AM   #20210
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I'm refering to the last run with my cyclone

Oh I remember that race, that's the one were you drove through me on the first lap!!!



To bad you didnt break a knuckle when you did that!!!


.
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:16 PM   #20211
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No it wouldnt !

When you attach the lipo normaly (without the offset tray), you have a much hevier "motor side".

The moving outwards of the lipo (with the offset tray) and the little extra weight of it, cases that the balance of the car will be nearly optimal, without attach any extra wheight.

The second plus is that you now can install extra weight easyly under the belt (centerline) of the car to get it legal for races.

I have not tested it yet on the track, but i think it is the best way to attach lipos in a TRF415.

Greetings Blueman
Thanks for the info. Currently I have weight shoe gooed to my battery so with it going out away from the center of the car I would have to take it off and rebalance it placing them elsewhere. My buddy is getting the tray first so I will probably play with his. I only need the tray if I want to run mod as my bulk heads have already been milled to perfectly fit an Orion 3800.
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:19 PM   #20212
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Oh I remember that race, that's the one were you drove through me on the first lap!!!



To bad you didnt break a knuckle when you did that!!!


.
That was my way of thanking you for everything you have done for me.... The Cuclone is still the best car I have ever driven. The Tamiya felt pretty good the first time out and I don't have to always get my parts over seas. Hopefully you will someday be able to actually order from HB USA rather than over seas. Take care and remember.......there are more blue guys at the track than purple.
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:01 PM   #20213
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Default 415 MSX/MRE sellout

Please visit this thread in the For Sale forum if you are interested in a 415 MSX/MRE in fantastic condition and a ton of extra parts.

I will ship worldwide.

Thank you.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post5424459


Last edited by afr0sch; 02-12-2009 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:54 AM   #20214
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TOP.....where's all my 415 buddies at???
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:37 AM   #20215
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right here right here!
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:50 PM   #20216
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Originally Posted by SlideMasteR View Post
Hi guys I wonder anyone can help ?

I have a 415msx mre and I am running 6 cell nimh's, 4.0 brushless motor with foam tires on a asphalt track, I am having serious belt issues, everytime I take the car out it strips either the front or back belt ! I have tried the std belts and the low friction belts none last !! is this because the car was not designed for this horse power or what ?

or is there other belts that I could fit that will work ???
Check front and rear belt tension. If it's to loose you can hear the belt skip off the pullies when you nail the throttle. You can adjust the tension by advancing the the teeth on the front and rear diff bearing holders to the splines on the front and rear bulkheads. You can afford to run your belts a little tighter when running mod and a little looser when running 17.5, 13.5. Hope that works for you.
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:42 AM   #20217
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As soon as my new parts get here I can put my shocks and the rest of the car back together. I was told that it was better to run the #2 pistons on carpet instead of the #3. Is this what most of you find to be true as well?? This car feels just like the cyclone so I'm wondering if I should try a few things that have worked with it? My biggest question is that the cyclone always required the roll centers to be raised by 1.5mm and most of the 415 set up's have the pivot blocks flat on the chassis. Has anyone played around with raising them slightly? I'd like to possibly raise them 2mm but I was told that there may be clearence issues. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:28 PM   #20218
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hi there all

i am new to this site and run a TRF415MSXX Marc Reinhard Edition

i am english and living in holland , i race at Real80 , Groningen

we have an utdoor track and we have just finished our new indoor track

i really like my tamiya but i think this year i will be the only one as the other lads have turn tail and bought the new Xray 009 so i guess i have my work cut out this year with the "old" TRF

eres some piccys
my new shell (smashed to bits now)




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Old 02-16-2009, 02:07 PM   #20219
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As soon as my new parts get here I can put my shocks and the rest of the car back together. I was told that it was better to run the #2 pistons on carpet instead of the #3. Is this what most of you find to be true as well?? This car feels just like the cyclone so I'm wondering if I should try a few things that have worked with it? My biggest question is that the cyclone always required the roll centers to be raised by 1.5mm and most of the 415 set up's have the pivot blocks flat on the chassis. Has anyone played around with raising them slightly? I'd like to possibly raise them 2mm but I was told that there may be clearence issues. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
hmmm, not sure about that...

Most of the time, we ended up running 3-hole pistons, with slightly heavier oil. Also removed the red foam piece from on-top of the shock, which helps reduce the pack and make the car smoother overall.
Raising the roll centres does work... but I personally never went above 1.5mm (and that was on a very quick track, with a 27t), but that did carry awesome corner speed.
Something else that was done as a general rule of thumb was white/blue springs, and no roll bars. Have a look here, if you haven't already for a number of setups that work well THard 415 pages.

HiH
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Old 02-16-2009, 02:24 PM   #20220
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hmmm, not sure about that...

Most of the time, we ended up running 3-hole pistons, with slightly heavier oil. Also removed the red foam piece from on-top of the shock, which helps reduce the pack and make the car smoother overall.
Raising the roll centres does work... but I personally never went above 1.5mm (and that was on a very quick track, with a 27t), but that did carry awesome corner speed.
Something else that was done as a general rule of thumb was white/blue springs, and no roll bars. Have a look here, if you haven't already for a number of setups that work well THard 415 pages.

HiH
Ed
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