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Old 08-07-2008, 07:13 AM   #19951
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can anyone advise me with an issue, can i flip a non bridge setup block over on the front of my 415 to clear the belt or do I need to use a bridge block???

cheers
scott
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:31 AM   #19952
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Originally Posted by barts71m View Post
can anyone advise me with an issue, can i flip a non bridge setup block over on the front of my 415 to clear the belt or do I need to use a bridge block???

cheers
scott
Hy scott

The new 416/TB03 suspension block series, are all flipable with a 3mm shim i think (then the rollcenter is not affected).

The "old" 415 blocks only the "X" ones are flipable.

Greetings Blueman
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Old 08-07-2008, 06:23 PM   #19953
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Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
First off if it is assembled per MSXX MRE then yours isnt assembled right. The steering bridge goes under the steering arms not above as you have it. Also make sure you used the right size end ball on the steering linkage. There is a addmen that comes with the MRE kits and shows the "new" assembly. Looks like you assembled it via the normal MSXX instructions and the steering posts spacing is different which would casue your rubbing. Also when you put it to MRE make sure your servo is spaced right so the linkage doesnt rub the top deck.
Hi vr6cj, after checked the instruction manual and found that there is nothing wrong with the steering assembly. After that I found out that the root cause is the Universal Joint issue due to my steering EPA on my radio set too high. May I know what is the solution for this? I need more steer angle on my steering. Pls help and thanks in advance.

Greetings Jonathan
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:45 AM   #19954
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i compared the 415 and 416 blocks,for the same 1d blocks...the 416 blocks seems to have its holes wider apart...anybody agrees with that??
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:02 AM   #19955
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Originally Posted by black4G93 View Post
Hi vr6cj, after checked the instruction manual and found that there is nothing wrong with the steering assembly. After that I found out that the root cause is the Universal Joint issue due to my steering EPA on my radio set too high. May I know what is the solution for this? I need more steer angle on my steering. Pls help and thanks in advance.

Greetings Jonathan

Here's a few pics I took of my car and the instructions. EPA is set by what your ESC wants you to have it at. Says in the instructions. Just make sure the tires dont rub the shocks too.

Blurry but you can get the idea.



My MSXX MRE



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Old 08-08-2008, 01:11 AM   #19956
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Could somebody is really could not run diff in front?
In the case rear diff can't install on it.
If really exist own front diff for MSX?
Where could i find it?
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:27 AM   #19957
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Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
Here's a few pics I took of my car and the instructions. EPA is set by what your ESC wants you to have it at. Says in the instructions. Just make sure the tires dont rub the shocks too.
Pictures worth a thousand words. Glad to see your solution with few clear pictures. It really help. Big thanks. A++

Greetings Jonathan
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Old 08-08-2008, 02:11 AM   #19958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Hy scott

The new 416/TB03 suspension block series, are all flipable with a 3mm shim i think (then the rollcenter is not affected).

The "old" 415 blocks only the "X" ones are flipable.

Greetings Blueman
so i can use and XA with no issues then???

wanna get too about 2.0 deg wanna use a C and an XA, but my XA is a non bridge 1.
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Old 08-08-2008, 04:36 AM   #19959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barts71m View Post
so i can use and XA with no issues then???

wanna get too about 2.0 deg wanna use a C and an XA, but my XA is a non bridge 1.

Yes t the 415 blocks from XA-XD are flipable with no issue.

I have attached a pic of the "manual" wich is included in the suspension mounts XA-XD. There you can see wich spacer should be mounted.

Greetings Blueman
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Tamiya TRF415-08082008391%7E1.jpg  
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Old 08-08-2008, 04:42 AM   #19960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Could somebody is really could not run diff in front?
In the case rear diff can't install on it.
If really exist own front diff for MSX?
Where could i find it?
The number for the front diff is 53921.

I think i seen it at rcmart, and also on other onlineshops.
I have one in my pitbox, but i havent build it or tried it yet...

Greetz Blueman
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:53 AM   #19961
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Some set up help please

I have a 415 msx
medium grip track ashphalt, night racing cold nights

running 540 class, lipo, dodge stratus shell, sorex 28s medium inserts GTX

currently:

yellow springs all round
red bar at the back and yellow at front
4mm droop all round, 5.5mm ride height
-1 camber and + 1 toe out on the front

The problem i am having is understeer/pushing in the low speed corners. it wont turn in nice, always pushes wide.

any hints on helping increase the steering

more toe out?
softer front springs?
i tried raising the rear roll center by using 1mm shims but the rear arms rubbed against the bulkhead, so i will get some .05 shims and try them.

any info will help
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:04 AM   #19962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Yes t the 415 blocks from XA-XD are flipable with no issue.

I have attached a pic of the "manual" wich is included in the suspension mounts XA-XD. There you can see wich spacer should be mounted.

Greetings Blueman
cheers again...didnt have a manual for blocks too c how to install them the other way.
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Old 08-08-2008, 10:31 AM   #19963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
The number for the front diff is 53921.

I think i seen it at rcmart, and also on other onlineshops.
I have one in my pitbox, but i havent build it or tried it yet...

Greetz Blueman
Oh, i saw it in Rcmart!
Thanks
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Old 08-09-2008, 01:50 AM   #19964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisk View Post
Some set up help please

I have a 415 msx
medium grip track ashphalt, night racing cold nights

running 540 class, lipo, dodge stratus shell, sorex 28s medium inserts GTX

currently:

yellow springs all round
red bar at the back and yellow at front
4mm droop all round, 5.5mm ride height
-1 camber and + 1 toe out on the front

The problem i am having is understeer/pushing in the low speed corners. it wont turn in nice, always pushes wide.

any hints on helping increase the steering

more toe out?
softer front springs?
i tried raising the rear roll center by using 1mm shims but the rear arms rubbed against the bulkhead, so i will get some .05 shims and try them.

any info will help
Try a few laps without a front roll bar, it sounds like the car is pushing because there isnt enough flex in the front end of the car, by keeping the back of the car stiffer with a light roll bar and removing the front roll bar you should get a bit more rotation through the sharper turns.

Id be inclined to try a little less rear droop too on a seperate run, with or without the front roll bar and see how that goes too.
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Old 08-09-2008, 11:10 PM   #19965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisk View Post
Some set up help please

I have a 415 msx
medium grip track ashphalt, night racing cold nights

running 540 class, lipo, dodge stratus shell, sorex 28s medium inserts GTX

currently:

yellow springs all round
red bar at the back and yellow at front
4mm droop all round, 5.5mm ride height
-1 camber and + 1 toe out on the front

The problem i am having is understeer/pushing in the low speed corners. it wont turn in nice, always pushes wide.

any hints on helping increase the steering

more toe out?
softer front springs?
i tried raising the rear roll center by using 1mm shims but the rear arms rubbed against the bulkhead, so i will get some .05 shims and try them.

any info will help
I race a similar class, at night, same shell, but my MSX has the MRE/EVO V steering in it. However changes I suggest:

Take off the stabilizer bars.

Harden the springs and oils at both ends. Softer front end will give you more understeer, as it will increase the front end grip. I have found blue springs plus 50wt oil at the front, and yellow springs with 40wt oil at the back.

I usually run more rear droop than front, which does allow for oversteer, but I have found it helps with getting the power down in the corner a lot quicker.

I have always left the roll centres as per manual, as I don't really know too much about them, and the car seems to go well enough with no adjustment there.
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