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Old 07-11-2008, 01:42 PM   #19906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
http://www.thard.co.uk/415/415info.html

The 415 didn't stop being a good car since the 416 came out, it's just the 416 has moved the game on a bit. The 415 is still a very capable car, and easily good enough to win races

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Yea I know its a capable car....same goes for shafters like Pro 4......but the question is is it still worth getting??? Or is the fear of being phase out by a newer model affects parts availability in the next 2-3years or so....

I hate getting a car knowing that its gonna get phase out and hard to get parts down the road....
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Old 07-11-2008, 04:28 PM   #19907
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I have had no problem getting parts for mine, I just bought another one (TRF 415 MSXX MRE) for $310 at Tamiya:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104

If you look at Tamiya's site they have already discontinued the TRF 416:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42106
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:33 AM   #19908
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Default TRF parts for sale from Australia

Hi guys

I have a few items for sales suitable for TRF

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=231959

and

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=231955.

Willing to post to anywhere but please state address for postage quote in your PM reply.

Thanks
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:29 PM   #19909
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I have a 415 MRE and is considering buying the stick pack conversion (49436) so I can have the bulkhead over the battery to get the clearance I need for the li-po batteries. Can I use the top bulkhead and top chassis from the conversion kit with the original MRE chassis or I need to change the whole thing to fit?

Can the conversion kit bulkhead clear 5000mah li-po like SMC, Core, etc? Thanks.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:40 PM   #19910
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The stick pack conversion is not all it is cracked up to be. I run a Checkpoint 5400 lipo in my msx mre with the stick pack conversion and I had to do some serious modification.

A checkpoint lipo with the PPD lipo weight are too tall to fit under the stick pack conversion.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:44 PM   #19911
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Can the top desk for the conversion kit work with the original chassis?
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:54 PM   #19912
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Yes, everything is the same as the TRF-415 MSX MRE except the front bumper, the chassis in the kit uses the bumper from the MSXX, MSXX MRE.
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:16 PM   #19913
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Default 415 diff upgrade

Does the 415 and 416 share parts? Can the diff of the 416 be use on the 415?
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:54 PM   #19914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowless View Post
Does the 415 and 416 share parts? Can the diff of the 416 be use on the 415?
Never with the diff hub, nor plates and pulleys(instead you could change longer belts). Only diff balls and thrust bearings.
Bumper, arms are still usable.
If you buy 416, you have to start everything from 0, that's why 415 is still used in the races.

Could anybody tell me the advantage and disadvantage between old(MSX) and new(MRE) steering linkage?

Best regards
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:46 PM   #19915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Never with the diff hub, nor plates and pulleys(instead you could change longer belts). Only diff balls and thrust bearings.
Bumper, arms are still usable.
If you buy 416, you have to start everything from 0, that's why 415 is still used in the races.

Could anybody tell me the advantage and disadvantage between old(MSX) and new(MRE) steering linkage?

Best regards
If you use the 415 outdrives, all the other 416 parts would work just fine. People have been using the 501x plates & pulleys for some time now to make 36T/37T diffs with 16 diff-balls for the 415. It works like a charm. The only catch is that you need longer belts...
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Old 07-16-2008, 01:20 AM   #19916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
If you use the 415 outdrives, all the other 416 parts would work just fine. People have been using the 501x plates & pulleys for some time now to make 36T/37T diffs with 16 diff-balls for the 415. It works like a charm. The only catch is that you need longer belts...
Yeah, you right!
I was just comparing the whole original parts, without thinking the tips, not to complicating so much.
I am not sure if Xray rear belt is enough long, maybe you should using your "dremel" to make a little fixation on the: RF sus. mount, damper stay and rear upper brace to have bigger space to fit the pulley .
About the front, if you want to use 37T, you could not use Jaad Spool, that's why i am still using 36T.

Finally, could anybody tell me difference between old(MSX) and new(MRE) steering linkage?

Last edited by mac853; 07-16-2008 at 05:44 AM.
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:40 AM   #19917
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I can tell you the physical differences...

MSX = carbon bridge, short bell-cranks, regular ball-nuts located outside bell cranks, 32mm tie rods

MSX-MRE = alloy bridge (EVO-IV) with adjustable ackerman, long bell-cranks, short ball-nuts located between bell-cranks, 42mm tie rods

MSXX = same as MSX-MRE except uses 5x8 hex-balls for easier adjustment of ackerman

MSXX-MRE = same as MSXX except steering bridge now hangs below the bell cranks. This moves the bell cranks up, and requires a special 1A bridge suspension mount that's been notched to clear the tie-rods...
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:30 AM   #19918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
I can tell you the physical differences...

MSX = carbon bridge, short bell-cranks, regular ball-nuts located outside bell cranks, 32mm tie rods

MSX-MRE = alloy bridge (EVO-IV) with adjustable ackerman, long bell-cranks, short ball-nuts located between bell-cranks, 42mm tie rods

MSXX = same as MSX-MRE except uses 5x8 hex-balls for easier adjustment of ackerman

MSXX-MRE = same as MSXX except steering bridge now hangs below the bell cranks. This moves the bell cranks up, and requires a special 1A bridge suspension mount that's been notched to clear the tie-rods...
No, thanks. I am not meaning the whole chassis.
Just the car behaviour of that 2 types of steering, the old 1(short turnbuckle(MS-MSX)) and last 1(long turnbuckle(MRE-MSXX))
Just want to ensure if the old 1 is better on small tracks and with average traction.
In the case my car was on totally understeer with new linkage, almost hit when is outing on the curves, then i want to change it to try something else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpg racer View Post
Also is it still worth getting the 415 considering the 416 is already out??? The fear of being phase out is there....

Thnx in advance guys...
Just depend which type of race track and class you are running.
I think, large highbite traction tracks(WC or EC style tracks) and 5min mod. race(with 3.5T BL) should be better with 416.
For example, if you are running any kind of stock(23T,27T or 540) and on average traction track(bouncy asphalt or polished concrete) like myself, you could keeping 415.
Even you have got the latest chassis, but your setup and driving skill are not mature or matched the track you are running, the result will not improve nothing then prejudicing yourself.
My friend got to podium with a Ta04 in C main among 3 or 4 TRF416 cars, and these guys don't adapted well the new chassis, is less performed than when were driving TT01.

Last edited by mac853; 07-16-2008 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:42 PM   #19919
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I have always found the 415 (I have owned an original one, and the MSX) to be very fussy with setup compared to the TA04s that I used to run. The TA04 could run with negative camber on one side and positive on the other and still do good laps. Do that to a 415 and it'll drive you insane
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:49 PM   #19920
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Higher performance cars generally have less tolerance for tweak or wrong setup, but the car will react to setup changes better. Assuming it's a tub ta04, it'll be alot more forgiving, but not respond to setup change as well as carbon decks.
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