2LikesTamiya TRF415
04-27-2004, 06:00 PM
#1967
Originally posted by tones
does anyone have the part number for the 1° aluminium rear hubs?
cheers
does anyone have the part number for the 1° aluminium rear hubs?
cheers
04-27-2004, 06:43 PM
#1968
Tom, did you make it in? 
My hand is up also!
Two years ago Tamiya had most of the people driving tamiya cars together. Don't know if it will happen again, as there were a lot of cars last year that were Tamiya. I think over 15 anyhow. I know AE had most but this is a big change since tamiya cars are getting to be much more popular than years past.
My hand is up also!
Two years ago Tamiya had most of the people driving tamiya cars together. Don't know if it will happen again, as there were a lot of cars last year that were Tamiya. I think over 15 anyhow. I know AE had most but this is a big change since tamiya cars are getting to be much more popular than years past.
04-27-2004, 09:19 PM
#1969
Originally posted by KilRuf
I'll probably try different gearing this weekend too on the 415. But I'm also experimenting with 1° toe on each side. Basically I run the optional rear 1° hubs with 2 D Blocks. Car is plenty fast down the straight. Just tricky getting it just right in the turns. But I too agree, the car handles changes very good and noticable. I can easily feel the difference just adding a 1mm shim under the rear camber link. Once again, it's a very nice car!
I'll probably try different gearing this weekend too on the 415. But I'm also experimenting with 1° toe on each side. Basically I run the optional rear 1° hubs with 2 D Blocks. Car is plenty fast down the straight. Just tricky getting it just right in the turns. But I too agree, the car handles changes very good and noticable. I can easily feel the difference just adding a 1mm shim under the rear camber link. Once again, it's a very nice car!
04-27-2004, 09:55 PM
#1970
Jeffreylin, what exactly do you mean wheel play? First, as far as bearing fitment into the aluminium hubs, they are nice and snug. So only play on axle is the bearing itself. As far as pulling the axle side to side, you could shim right between the bearing and the wheel hex. But I have not done this. I've even noticed this "play" with the stock plastic hubs. I haven't really looking into shimming it yet.
Hmmmmm. I think a .7 shim might be fine. But something that more or less spaces the bearing out farther without the shim "touching" the axle. Something same diameter as a bearing but with a larger center hole. Place it into the hub. Then place the bearing over it. Sounds good... now where to find a shim that size.... That or a bearing that is alittle "wider" than normal.
Anyways, I haven't noticed my transitions being slow. But this could "tighten" up the car feel. Not that mine needs it hehe....
Hmmmmm. I think a .7 shim might be fine. But something that more or less spaces the bearing out farther without the shim "touching" the axle. Something same diameter as a bearing but with a larger center hole. Place it into the hub. Then place the bearing over it. Sounds good... now where to find a shim that size.... That or a bearing that is alittle "wider" than normal.
Anyways, I haven't noticed my transitions being slow. But this could "tighten" up the car feel. Not that mine needs it hehe....
04-27-2004, 10:03 PM
#1971
Tech Initiate
hi everyone...i know this isn't the for sale forum, but since you guys run 415s, you may know someone who wants one. i'm trying to get rid of the ones i have left. $370 + ship. thanks.
04-27-2004, 10:05 PM
#1972
Originally posted by KilRuf
Jeffreylin, what exactly do you mean wheel play? First, as far as bearing fitment into the aluminium hubs, they are nice and snug. So only play on axle is the bearing itself. As far as pulling the axle side to side, you could shim right between the bearing and the wheel hex. But I have not done this. I've even noticed this "play" with the stock plastic hubs. I haven't really looking into shimming it yet.
Hmmmmm. I think a .7 shim might be fine. But something that more or less spaces the bearing out farther without the shim "touching" the axle. Something same diameter as a bearing but with a larger center hole. Place it into the hub. Then place the bearing over it. Sounds good... now where to find a shim that size.... That or a bearing that is alittle "wider" than normal.
Anyways, I haven't noticed my transitions being slow. But this could "tighten" up the car feel. Not that mine needs it hehe....
Jeffreylin, what exactly do you mean wheel play? First, as far as bearing fitment into the aluminium hubs, they are nice and snug. So only play on axle is the bearing itself. As far as pulling the axle side to side, you could shim right between the bearing and the wheel hex. But I have not done this. I've even noticed this "play" with the stock plastic hubs. I haven't really looking into shimming it yet.
Hmmmmm. I think a .7 shim might be fine. But something that more or less spaces the bearing out farther without the shim "touching" the axle. Something same diameter as a bearing but with a larger center hole. Place it into the hub. Then place the bearing over it. Sounds good... now where to find a shim that size.... That or a bearing that is alittle "wider" than normal.
Anyways, I haven't noticed my transitions being slow. But this could "tighten" up the car feel. Not that mine needs it hehe....
04-28-2004, 08:33 AM
#1973
Place shims on the inside of the hubs not on the outside before the hex. It may sound like a pain esp. for the front but by doing so you are not changing the width of the car. I add shims until everything is nice and slop free (with wheel bolted on) and doesn't bind. I then remove 0.1-0.2mm of shimming just to be safe.
04-28-2004, 10:52 AM
#1975
Originally posted by rtypec
Place shims on the inside of the hubs not on the outside before the hex. It may sound like a pain esp. for the front but by doing so you are not changing the width of the car. I add shims until everything is nice and slop free (with wheel bolted on) and doesn't bind. I then remove 0.1-0.2mm of shimming just to be safe.
Place shims on the inside of the hubs not on the outside before the hex. It may sound like a pain esp. for the front but by doing so you are not changing the width of the car. I add shims until everything is nice and slop free (with wheel bolted on) and doesn't bind. I then remove 0.1-0.2mm of shimming just to be safe.
shim inside the bearing? so it'd be ... hub + shim + bearing then alum. hex? i have mine right now inbetween the bearing and hex.. which widens the car just a tad. i used one .25mm shim on each alum. hub and the play is very minimal.
- c
04-28-2004, 11:44 AM
#1976
Hey Rod, has Fred got the new A front bridge block in yet?
Chris also by shimming between the bearings there is less deflection in the CVD because the bearings are a touch wider it is very minor but it all adds up. This will keep camber more cinsistent at the wheel itself.
Chris also by shimming between the bearings there is less deflection in the CVD because the bearings are a touch wider it is very minor but it all adds up. This will keep camber more cinsistent at the wheel itself.
04-28-2004, 12:03 PM
#1977
I was thinking along the lines of hex-bearing/hub/bearing-shims-axle. But yeah, you could put spacers inside of the hub between the bearings like Dan said. I just use shims.
Dan, the front A bridge blocks are in. I picked one up to do some testing with you-know-what
I hope it works as well as it does on the Evo3.
Dan, the front A bridge blocks are in. I picked one up to do some testing with you-know-what
I hope it works as well as it does on the Evo3.
04-28-2004, 12:42 PM
#1980
Originally posted by Difuser
If you see him on Saturday can you tell him to mail one up he has the numbers.
It definately helps I want to put the narrower hinge pins on the front to see if that helps also.
If you see him on Saturday can you tell him to mail one up he has the numbers.
It definately helps I want to put the narrower hinge pins on the front to see if that helps also.
there's current two D blocks right? narrower i assuming?
