Tamiya TRF415
Tech Rookie
Questions, Questions
Hello!
Just picked up a 415MSX and I have come across some minor issues.
First off should I bother with putting the small foam neon-orange in the shock? I know this provides rebound for the shocks, how would the handling change from rebound to no rebound spacers. Also whats the appropriate shock shaft length from the body to the ball cup?
Second, do you guys have any suggestions on removing slop from the camber links, ie replacing the ball cups with newer ones? After market ones like RPM?
Third, suspension mounts. I understand there are several combinations you can come up with for toe in and out. But when you change the mounts do you change the width?
Fourth, I am currently running a 4mm chassis, and the 3mm upper deck is this good for racing in rubber sedan class? I have heard that the stiffer the chassis the better because your suspension should be doing the work not the flex of the chassis.
Fifth, I notice you can buy a Hudy Balancing tool which has 2 spikes and you rest the chassis on to configure you electronic so the chassis is balanced. Is there a technique similar to this where I can balance the chassis by re-positioning my electronics with out buying these tool.
Where can I get the all white TRF spring kit???
Just picked up a 415MSX and I have come across some minor issues.
First off should I bother with putting the small foam neon-orange in the shock? I know this provides rebound for the shocks, how would the handling change from rebound to no rebound spacers. Also whats the appropriate shock shaft length from the body to the ball cup?
Second, do you guys have any suggestions on removing slop from the camber links, ie replacing the ball cups with newer ones? After market ones like RPM?
Third, suspension mounts. I understand there are several combinations you can come up with for toe in and out. But when you change the mounts do you change the width?
Fourth, I am currently running a 4mm chassis, and the 3mm upper deck is this good for racing in rubber sedan class? I have heard that the stiffer the chassis the better because your suspension should be doing the work not the flex of the chassis.
Fifth, I notice you can buy a Hudy Balancing tool which has 2 spikes and you rest the chassis on to configure you electronic so the chassis is balanced. Is there a technique similar to this where I can balance the chassis by re-positioning my electronics with out buying these tool.
Where can I get the all white TRF spring kit???
THX for your reply´s !
I am gona pick up a MSXXMRE07, and i wanted to know wich stabilizers fit the car.
I also plan to get a front oneway to. Should i get a center onway also, or is the effect so minor that it is not realy necassary?
I thought along wich one i should get, the 416 ore these one, but i think the 415MSXXMRE07 is for me the better choise because i have the complete suspension parts already from my Evo´s in my pitcase (knuckles, toeblocks, uprights, bearings, ...)
One other question. The lower deck from the MSXXMRE07 is a 2,5mm one right? Is this the one wich have on the battery side holes for Stick pack mounting?
Greetings from Austria
Blueman
I am gona pick up a MSXXMRE07, and i wanted to know wich stabilizers fit the car.
I also plan to get a front oneway to. Should i get a center onway also, or is the effect so minor that it is not realy necassary?
I thought along wich one i should get, the 416 ore these one, but i think the 415MSXXMRE07 is for me the better choise because i have the complete suspension parts already from my Evo´s in my pitcase (knuckles, toeblocks, uprights, bearings, ...)
One other question. The lower deck from the MSXXMRE07 is a 2,5mm one right? Is this the one wich have on the battery side holes for Stick pack mounting?
Greetings from Austria
Blueman
The front one way is more noticable than the centre one way, it will "roll" off power for longer. Using both will give you a lot of off power "roll"
Very easy to overshoot the corners as you'll have less brakes and is more suited to open,flowing tracks.
Very easy to overshoot the corners as you'll have less brakes and is more suited to open,flowing tracks.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Hello!
Just picked up a 415MSX and I have come across some minor issues.
First off should I bother with putting the small foam neon-orange in the shock? I know this provides rebound for the shocks, how would the handling change from rebound to no rebound spacers. Also whats the appropriate shock shaft length from the body to the ball cup?
Just picked up a 415MSX and I have come across some minor issues.
First off should I bother with putting the small foam neon-orange in the shock? I know this provides rebound for the shocks, how would the handling change from rebound to no rebound spacers. Also whats the appropriate shock shaft length from the body to the ball cup?
Shock length, I go for between 63.0 and 62.0mm, depending on droop setting.
Second, do you guys have any suggestions on removing slop from the camber links, ie replacing the ball cups with newer ones? After market ones like RPM?
Otherwise, have a look at this Thard.co.uk 415 pages. You can help prolong the ball cups by using the hex headed ball joints, and then drilling a hole through the cup large enough to fit an allen driver. This means you don't have to pop the ball joint off, as this is what introduces more slop than anything else.
Third, suspension mounts. I understand there are several combinations you can come up with for toe in and out. But when you change the mounts do you change the width?
Fourth, I am currently running a 4mm chassis, and the 3mm upper deck is this good for racing in rubber sedan class? I have heard that the stiffer the chassis the better because your suspension should be doing the work not the flex of the chassis.
Have a look at some of the setups on the 415 pages, plenty of rubber tyre setups there.
Fifth, I notice you can buy a Hudy Balancing tool which has 2 spikes and you rest the chassis on to configure you electronic so the chassis is balanced. Is there a technique similar to this where I can balance the chassis by re-positioning my electronics with out buying these tool.
Where can I get the all white TRF spring kit???
HiH
Ed
White PTFE tape is good to use to reduce slop on ball joints etc.its pennies for a roll at hardware shops and apparently it works well as a lubricant.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I have never thought of that, sounds interesting, got plenty of that laying around from doing plumbing work at home.
Cheers burlap,Beats the shit out of plastic bags.But at least MR ED is recycling so their is method in the madness
No! My Evo is running very good now. I race it definatly in the 13,5 Class, but i also will try a new car, for 9,5 and stronger motors.
But my friend told me that the MSXMRE07 is sold out right now
Our favorite shop made a special deal on it 360 USD. We were to late.
Looks like i have to buy a 416. Maybe after the worlds this year, there came a new kit with spool and tit. screws included.
Greetings Blueman
But my friend told me that the MSXMRE07 is sold out right now
Our favorite shop made a special deal on it 360 USD. We were to late.
Looks like i have to buy a 416. Maybe after the worlds this year, there came a new kit with spool and tit. screws included.
Greetings Blueman
Tech Rookie
The Stiffer the Better?
Thanks Ed for your quick responses much appreciated.
Back to the question of the mm chassis, isn't stiffer better?
Stiffer the chassis causes the suspension to do all the work. Isn't that the whole idea behind tuning your suspension... for it to do all the work?
If you have flex in your chassis does this create a buffering for a poorly tuned suspension? I understand that the flex helps with weight transfer, could you not tune weight transfer within your suspension setup?
Also..the suspension blocks I am running on the front are (f D r D) and
Rear( f A r E). Does this push my track width to maximum mm?? I am running mm Blue Clamping hex? Is it wise to run wider track in the rear and narrow in the front? What conditions should I run wide and narrow for rubber tires?
Thanks
Edward
Back to the question of the mm chassis, isn't stiffer better?
Stiffer the chassis causes the suspension to do all the work. Isn't that the whole idea behind tuning your suspension... for it to do all the work?
If you have flex in your chassis does this create a buffering for a poorly tuned suspension? I understand that the flex helps with weight transfer, could you not tune weight transfer within your suspension setup?
Also..the suspension blocks I am running on the front are (f D r D) and
Rear( f A r E). Does this push my track width to maximum mm?? I am running mm Blue Clamping hex? Is it wise to run wider track in the rear and narrow in the front? What conditions should I run wide and narrow for rubber tires?
Thanks
Edward
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Thanks Ed for your quick responses much appreciated.
Back to the question of the mm chassis, isn't stiffer better?
Stiffer the chassis causes the suspension to do all the work. Isn't that the whole idea behind tuning your suspension... for it to do all the work?
If you have flex in your chassis does this create a buffering for a poorly tuned suspension? I understand that the flex helps with weight transfer, could you not tune weight transfer within your suspension setup?
Also..the suspension blocks I am running on the front are (f D r D) and
Rear( f A r E). Does this push my track width to maximum mm?? I am running mm Blue Clamping hex? Is it wise to run wider track in the rear and narrow in the front? What conditions should I run wide and narrow for rubber tires?
Thanks
Edward
Back to the question of the mm chassis, isn't stiffer better?
Stiffer the chassis causes the suspension to do all the work. Isn't that the whole idea behind tuning your suspension... for it to do all the work?
If you have flex in your chassis does this create a buffering for a poorly tuned suspension? I understand that the flex helps with weight transfer, could you not tune weight transfer within your suspension setup?
Also..the suspension blocks I am running on the front are (f D r D) and
Rear( f A r E). Does this push my track width to maximum mm?? I am running mm Blue Clamping hex? Is it wise to run wider track in the rear and narrow in the front? What conditions should I run wide and narrow for rubber tires?
Thanks
Edward
Given the way the carbon plates are laid up, the flex is pretty well controlled too, with lots in torsion, but very little longitudinally or laterally (ie, you can twist, but not bend). It's why some manufactuers can make very stiff, but thin chassis plates (Schui springs to mind), as they orientate the fibres to absorb some of the torsional flex.
Something else to consider is that the dual top deck creates a box section, so technically, you get some stiffness back by having the top deck. Obviously this is still controlled in some respects by the thickness of the plates.
In terms of narrow and wide. I ended up running the rear of the car as wide is it can go (so same as you have), and very rarely touched. Only time i would change the setting would be if I wanted less toe-in, then I would make a decision as to wheather I wanted more stability (change the front block), or more mid-corner rotation (change the rear block) to go with it.
As for the front, D/D is a good combination to go with, especially when running a front one-way, works well with a spool too though indoors. Generally I would go D/D indoors on carpet, and B/A or C/A outdoors (so wider in, narrower out). Generally, most outdoor tracks have less grip, and narrowing the front down helps to give overall front end back to the car. The arm sweep (caused by running different width front and rear blocks) helps to give the car extra entry and mid corner steering too.
HiH
Ed
Tech Rookie
Thanks!
Thanks for your help!
I will have many questions coming soon!
Cheers!
Edward
I will have many questions coming soon!
Cheers!
Edward
Can i use TRF415MSXX lowerdeck on TRF415MSX?
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)