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Old 09-02-2007, 01:04 PM   #19231
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Guys,I really need your help or advice on this one.I race 19T with foam tires.I have off-power steering and on-power steering,but I dont seem to get the car to turn in on our super bowl when I come down the straight.I even went to 32 fronts and 38 rear tires and it just changes my off-power steering.I have a pre-nats this coming and have no idea what to try next.Here is a link to our site if you want to see what the track looks like www.prccc.co.za.
Thanks
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Old 09-02-2007, 05:40 PM   #19232
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
I solve that different way. If you have problem with 42mm shafts are too short, you can use # 53704 lw one-way joints, because they are longer than regular ones. I use them and no problem at all.
I had not realized that the lightweight cups were longer, thanks for that.
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:48 AM   #19233
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Thanks Rampal! I needed That!
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Old 09-03-2007, 08:39 AM   #19234
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Quick question about damping effect.

60wt 3holes and 40wt 2holes, are they act the same, or one have slightly bigger damping rate?
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Old 09-04-2007, 02:31 PM   #19235
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Can someone post some pictures of a finished (16 ball) ball diff on the web site that shows you what you need and how to do it, dosn't show you a finished diff. I have bought all the things need to build one but the trf501 diff plates will only just touch the bearings edge is this correct or ahould the bearings be completly covered by the trf501 diff plate. Pictures would be great. Thanks
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Old 09-04-2007, 02:35 PM   #19236
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http://racingfactory.wordpress.com/2...l-trf415-diff/
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Old 09-04-2007, 03:14 PM   #19237
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Tamiya was confirm 20th OCT release TRF415MSXX MRE
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/new...ews1.htm#42104
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Old 09-04-2007, 05:01 PM   #19238
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
Tamiya was confirm 20th OCT release TRF415MSXX MRE
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/new...ews1.htm#42104
Thanks for the post
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Old 09-05-2007, 10:27 AM   #19239
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Personally I don't see the need to modify the diffs at all. My diffs are always butter smooth for easily 30+ runs without needing a bebuild. Outdoors I probably need to clean the thrust bearing about once every 10 packs, but that doesn't even requires taking the diff out of the car.

All I do is throw the rubbish tamiya diff balls away and put a set of acer ceramic instead ($10 a set and they last for ages). I have had the same balls in my diff for 5 years now. Then use AE black stealth grease. That's it. I have been racing 5 cell brushless this season and haven't noticed anything different as to how often i rebuild my diffs.

Just my 2 cents...
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Old 09-05-2007, 12:22 PM   #19240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy View Post
Personally I don't see the need to modify the diffs at all. My diffs are always butter smooth for easily 30+ runs without needing a bebuild. Outdoors I probably need to clean the thrust bearing about once every 10 packs, but that doesn't even requires taking the diff out of the car.

All I do is throw the rubbish tamiya diff balls away and put a set of acer ceramic instead ($10 a set and they last for ages). I have had the same balls in my diff for 5 years now. Then use AE black stealth grease. That's it. I have been racing 5 cell brushless this season and haven't noticed anything different as to how often i rebuild my diffs.

Just my 2 cents...
I will agree ceramic balls are a very good investment. I have to admit to being a little unconvinced on the worth of the 16ball for stock too....
Mine is good, and certainly now feels no different to when first built and bedded (and thats after about 20 runs with a stock and 3 with a 7x1...)
I do think I can get mine better though, may have mucked up the pulley a little when I modified it, thankfully I have a spare so I'm going to rebuild it for the coming weekend, and see the results.

Regards
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:16 PM   #19241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy View Post
Personally I don't see the need to modify the diffs at all. My diffs are always butter smooth for easily 30+ runs without needing a bebuild. Outdoors I probably need to clean the thrust bearing about once every 10 packs, but that doesn't even requires taking the diff out of the car.

All I do is throw the rubbish tamiya diff balls away and put a set of acer ceramic instead ($10 a set and they last for ages). I have had the same balls in my diff for 5 years now. Then use AE black stealth grease. That's it. I have been racing 5 cell brushless this season and haven't noticed anything different as to how often i rebuild my diffs.

Just my 2 cents...
Black grease on the diff balls and plates? Does it work well?
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Old 09-05-2007, 09:20 PM   #19242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tek Nickal View Post
Black grease on the diff balls and plates? Does it work well?
I too use ceramic balls with the AE blackgrease and I sware by them. Although a lot of the Tamiya factory drivers prefer the Tamiya carbides with the Tamiya diff grease. This may have something to do with them getting theirs at a very good price and they have to promote Tamiya products of coarse.
I talked with two Tamiya factory drivers that ran the Reedy here in Aliso and they both said they were able to run the whole weekend without rebuilding the diff. Compared to them rebuilding them every 3 to 4 runs! I'm sure this freed up a lot of their time to concentrate on set-up etc,etc,.
But, if you run the 16 ball diff. the ceramics are 3 times lighter then the Tamiya carbides if your trying to keep the weight down, then I believe these would be better and you can get 16 for the price of 8 carbides!
Just my 2$
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Old 09-05-2007, 10:21 PM   #19243
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Then, wouldn't using 16 balls, all ceramic, with black grease be somewhat of an ultimate diff? I've had bad luck with ceramic diff balls before, so I never used them again.
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:10 PM   #19244
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I use the AE Black for the thrust only and the AE red for the diff balls. Less sticky and freer.

Hey Max good seeing you guys at Nats we'll see you guys up here for Regionals next year.
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Old 09-06-2007, 02:58 AM   #19245
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I have recently brought an MSXX. What are the part numbers for the items to do the 18t locked pulley conversion? and also what spool will fit the car? do tamiya do one with steel outdrives?

I think Ed's site covers the topics in question but the pages don't display :-(

Cheers
Matt

Last edited by Smartypants; 09-06-2007 at 04:07 AM.
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