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Old 08-09-2007, 01:37 PM   #19006
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Thanks

If i looked right that pic i notice at he run 37th pulley rear and 16th in the middle?

IR is 2.312?
YES !
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Old 08-09-2007, 03:12 PM   #19007
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An 82 tooth fits flush with the bottom of the chassis
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:03 PM   #19008
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so what the IR if u run the 18t 501 center pully and the 36t diff pullys?

how about IR with the 18t center and 37 diff?
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Old 08-09-2007, 11:44 PM   #19009
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so what the IR if u run the 18t 501 center pully and the 36t diff pullys?

how about IR with the 18t center and 37 diff?
36/18 = IR of 2.0

37/18 = IR of 2.056
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Old 08-10-2007, 02:20 AM   #19010
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So if they are planning to go lower on IR why dont they use 35/18?

another question (totally unrelated): to make the car turn in harder will it help to at some kickup (shims under front toe block)

the problem I have is that the car turns ok but I have alot of chassis play. I use 40wt 2 hole yellow spring/sways droops 3mm frt/5mm rear. ride height 5mm

to slow the chassis play and weight transfer I tried increasing the dampening and the spring rate but this time the car starts to "swim". looks more like the puck of a air hockey table.

I am sure I am not looking at something here but I am just too lost and way too tired at the moment
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Old 08-10-2007, 02:25 AM   #19011
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An 82 tooth fits flush with the bottom of the chassis
+1
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Old 08-10-2007, 03:58 AM   #19012
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36/18 = IR of 2.0

37/18 = IR of 2.056
if 37/18 use which belt ?
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Old 08-10-2007, 04:04 AM   #19013
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if 37/18 use which belt ?
501 or the Cyclone may fit need to test it though dont quote me on it

IF any one has these parts, you can put a string around the pulleys (with the tensioner half tight) and tell me the lenght. I can calculate how many teeth belt you need then all you need is find the right one.
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:12 AM   #19014
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if 37/18 use which belt ?
For the front the xray belt works, but in the rear the xray or mre belt (both are 180mm long) is one tooth short. I believe the hb cyclone belt is our only hope to get it to work.
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:49 AM   #19015
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Originally Posted by Toughbeard View Post
So if they are planning to go lower on IR why dont they use 35/18?

another question (totally unrelated): to make the car turn in harder will it help to at some kickup (shims under front toe block)

the problem I have is that the car turns ok but I have alot of chassis play. I use 40wt 2 hole yellow spring/sways droops 3mm frt/5mm rear. ride height 5mm

to slow the chassis play and weight transfer I tried increasing the dampening and the spring rate but this time the car starts to "swim". looks more like the puck of a air hockey table.

I am sure I am not looking at something here but I am just too lost and way too tired at the moment
The purpose of going with bigger pulleys, foremost centerpullies, is to increase the beltwrap around the pulley. With bigger beltwrap the belt bends less which inturn reduce friction and wear on both belt and pulley. Lower IR is just a sideeffect of increasing pulleysizes and could hinder proper gearing (corally rdx is a prime example). My only reason for using the 37T pulley is that it accepts 12 balls instead of just 8. By the way, you need a JAAD spool upfront to fit the 37T pulley, there are no oneway pullies yet. Regarding setup, try to reduce droop some, I use 24.5mm front, 25mm rear with spool.
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:54 AM   #19016
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The purpose of going with bigger pulleys, foremost centerpullies, is to increase the beltwrap around the pulley. With bigger beltwrap the belt bends less which inturn reduce friction and wear on both belt and pulley. Lower IR is just a sideeffect of increasing pulleysizes and could hinder proper gearing (corally rdx is a prime example). My only reason for using the 37T pulley is that it accepts 12 balls instead of just 8. By the way, you need a JAAD spool upfront to fit the 37T pulley, there are no oneway pullies yet. Regarding setup, try to reduce droop some, I use 24.5mm front, 25mm rear with spool.
Actually increasing the belt wrap will increase the friction but as you said it will increase the belt turnin radius which will help reduce the slip and unnesseary belt wear. So a side from belt life I would perefer to go with a smaller puller. and smaller is lighter...

For the droop, those values I am assuming are from the top of the axle to the setup board right? David June method?
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:50 AM   #19017
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Just came back from my LHS.....he got the new TA05MS and was in a panic with his old 415MSX....so i helped him of his pain by buying a NIB MSX at 350 usd
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:52 AM   #19018
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Actually increasing the belt wrap will increase the friction
Actually, it does decrease friction as well as reduce belt skipping. Once the “meshing and un-meshing” of the pulley to the belt is complete (which occurs only at the top and bottom of the pulley), in-between this area is more or less in static (not moving) contact which introduces virtually no additional friction to the drive train. The increase diameter will aid in efficiency because the belt doesn’t have to bend around as tight of a radius. A significant amount of drag in belt systems is caused by this. In addition, in the event of potential skipping due to heavy load, the belt would have to stretch more to clear the larger pulley diameter which inherently reduces the likely hood of skipping. Also, the larger diameter pulley will of course increase the number of teeth holding the belt which also helps to reduce potential skipping.
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Old 08-10-2007, 05:05 PM   #19019
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Actually, it does decrease friction as well as reduce belt skipping. Once the “meshing and un-meshing” of the pulley to the belt is complete (which occurs only at the top and bottom of the pulley), in-between this area is more or less in static (not moving) contact which introduces virtually no additional friction to the drive train. The increase diameter will aid in efficiency because the belt doesn’t have to bend around as tight of a radius. A significant amount of drag in belt systems is caused by this. In addition, in the event of potential skipping due to heavy load, the belt would have to stretch more to clear the larger pulley diameter which inherently reduces the likely hood of skipping. Also, the larger diameter pulley will of course increase the number of teeth holding the belt which also helps to reduce potential skipping.

Here a test rub your arm with your finger/than rub you arm with you arm.
Which produce the the most friction.....

these Belts never Bend.....they guide....

So not true....Friction is measured by contact. The more Contact the more Friction....That is why tamiya went with the wide pitch pullies....to reduce friction...by having less teeth have contact with the pulley. Less contact less fricton. This not a "corner" these belts are turning......The belt tension/er is what help lessen belt hopping......Not the a larger pulley...if that was the case Cars would not have tension guides. Plus a larger pulley is to help the motor run more effecient(less work)......Plus alot of other reasons......not just gearing......it make no sense to take off pullies when you can change a spur gear to change your ratios.


43*C in Raleigh North Carolina or 112*F
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Old 08-10-2007, 05:56 PM   #19020
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Originally Posted by m3ndo5a View Post
Here a test rub your arm with your finger/than rub you arm with you arm.
Which produce the the most friction.....

these Belts never Bend.....they guide....

So not true....Friction is measured by contact. The more Contact the more Friction....That is why tamiya went with the wide pitch pullies....to reduce friction...by having less teeth have contact with the pulley. Less contact less fricton. This not a "corner" these belts are turning......The belt tension/er is what help lessen belt hopping......Not the a larger pulley...if that was the case Cars would not have tension guides. Plus a larger pulley is to help the motor run more effecient(less work)......Plus alot of other reasons......not just gearing......it make no sense to take off pullies when you can change a spur gear to change your ratios.


43*C in Raleigh North Carolina or 112*F
Actually, contact alone does not equal friction. Contact is just that, contact. If I "touch" my arm with my finger vs. my whole arm, there is no more friction/heat being generated between the two. Friction requires two things. One is of course contact with another object but this alone is not friction. It is when these two objects are also moving against each other, rubbing or apposing. So if I "rubbed" my arm with my finger vs. whole arm your analogy would be correct but that’s not how a belt interacts with a larger or smaller pulley. Once the belt has wrapped around the pulley, the teeth of each body is not producing significant friction, they are just contacting each other. Like I said before, it is the meshing and un-meshing of the pulley and belt, the point in which the belt and teeth meet. It’s at this point there is rubbing. Also, the belt does bend around the pulley and this is friction as well. The tighter the radius the belt must bend around, the more friction is produced. The optional Tamiya pulleys have half the number of teeth which cuts the number of mesh and un-mesh cycles in half.
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