R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-31-2007, 06:51 AM   #18556
Tech Champion
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,172
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAG_ON
anyone can please help-- i'm planing using MRE wide pitch pulley (white) -- for front spool and rear diff. Do i need to change the belt? currently i'm using MSX belt........
You useing 35T pulley black color ?
U can use this MRE new belts with 36T pulley
http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPa...sort=1a&page=3
RC MARKET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 07:02 AM   #18557
Tech Elite
 
yyhayyim's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Weston, FL
Posts: 3,424
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Talking

Looking to get an MSXX but need some info:

1) for us who live in the US, how do we get parts for the car?

2) How tough is it?

3) Is it easy to work on?

4) Can it take Orion 4800 lipo packs?
__________________
Yohan Hayyim [Associated RC10B4.1]

"Release the Kraken"
yyhayyim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 07:11 AM   #18558
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,284
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Looking to get an MSXX but need some info:

1) for us who live in the US, how do we get parts for the car?
Tamiya USA, or Speedtech. RC Champ, Rainbow Ten, and others also all deliver to the US

Quote:
2) How tough is it?
Like any 415... very

Quote:
3) Is it easy to work on?
Yup

Quote:
4) Can it take Orion 4800 lipo packs?
without using the Stick pack bulkheads (avaliable seperatly), no.

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 09:36 AM   #18559
Tech Elite
 
rtypec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,969
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruisaaja
You didn`t make the same things to your car like Marc did.
I'll be the first to admit that I do have a LOFT problem (2004 Barry Baker) and wanted to keep my setup within my comfort zone. I simply can't wheel as well as the some of the world's finest LOFT=Lack of freaking talent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rampal
excellent!! Rod, quick request, can you please post a picture of your car from the "other" side?? It seems you're not using the air scoop and where the hell did you put the GTB condenser?? It looks indeed a very clean setup!!

Another question, if you don't mind.... how much weight your car end up with? I've noticed you have some lead around... did the Reedy have any weight limitation (more than 1350g) or that was just for balancing the car?? and you're using hotbodies sway bar holders, right??

thanks a lot,
al
The other side of the car is a rat's nest lol. I didn't use the air scoop because I ran out of room. The big capacitor is taped to the the side of the GTB. Regarding the weight. When I built the car, I peeled off the tape of some lead weights and shoe-gooed them under the steering rack. My car was about 20g over weight (minimum was 1450 for 5 cell) and I could have removed them, but never got around to it.

The sway bar holders are from the Evo5. The rears were cut down and the front was a direct bolt on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Cheers Rod,
One question, how was your steering setup? spacers behind ball joint, type of ball joint used etc

Cheers
Ed
I used the MSXX/MRE steering system with a 1mm spacer behind the older 53640 ball nuts/3x10mm droop screws. This was something we adjusted to personal preference.
rtypec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 11:01 AM   #18560
Tech Elite
 
JayL's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 2,880
Default

for the center 18t pulley, I bet they used the new trf501x ones as it's lay is similar to the ta-05 like the mre/msxx

Tamiya TRF501X 18t center pulley: part 53989
JayL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 11:23 AM   #18561
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Finland
Posts: 243
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtypec
I'll be the first to admit that I do have a LOFT problem (2004 Barry Baker) and wanted to keep my setup within my comfort zone. I simply can't wheel as well as the some of the world's finest LOFT=Lack of freaking talent.
Thanks Rod for your input. I also made my mind to keep my gear as simple as possible = KISS ( Keep it simple stupid ) That`s the way it is...
__________________
Racingfactory.fi -> GM - LRP - Futaba - Tamiya Mini M03 - Tamiya 415MSX MRE - Tamiya 416 WE
Cruisaaja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 04:32 PM   #18562
Tech Regular
 
daveaustin5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 464
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi guys,

I've recently purchased a used MSX and plan to race it indoors on carpet using rubber tyres (VTEC 24R). I'm going to need to buy a spring set for it and was wondering which I should get. Do they have to be Tamiya or will other brands fit (I have many Team Associated springs already)

What are the hard milky blue set like (TA-49389)? Too hard for carpet rubber?

Also my MSX is stock apart from a front solid axel, do I need to buy a front diff and a solid centre gear to race indoor rubber?

As you can probably tell: I know very little about setting up cars, my dad used to do it all for me! I've recently been racing my old TC3 completely stock and it seemed to run pretty well at my old club. I've never used a spool or one-way pulleys before so know little about them!

Any help would be much appreciated.
daveaustin5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 04:48 PM   #18563
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,284
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveaustin5
Hi guys,

I've recently purchased a used MSX and plan to race it indoors on carpet using rubber tyres (VTEC 24R). I'm going to need to buy a spring set for it and was wondering which I should get. Do they have to be Tamiya or will other brands fit (I have many Team Associated springs already)

What are the hard milky blue set like (TA-49389)? Too hard for carpet rubber?

Also my MSX is stock apart from a front solid axel, do I need to buy a front diff and a solid centre gear to race indoor rubber?

As you can probably tell: I know very little about setting up cars, my dad used to do it all for me! I've recently been racing my old TC3 completely stock and it seemed to run pretty well at my old club. I've never used a spool or one-way pulleys before so know little about them!

Any help would be much appreciated.
Hi Dave,
I believe AE springs fit, but I have personally only used Tamiya or HPI springs.
For indoor rubber carpet, you really can't go far wrong from Tamiya white on the front, and Blue on the rear. The milkey blue set will be fine, as it contains four rates (Red/soft, yellow/medium, blue/hard, white/extra hard) but all with the same colour coating. It does only contain a pair of each, so if you want to run blue or whites all round, you'll need two sets.
How big is the track you are going to be running on? I personally prefer to use a one-way with the car indoors on rubber, never used a spool, and only used a diff when it was a very tight and twisty track.

If you have any more questions, ask away

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 05:07 PM   #18564
Tech Regular
 
daveaustin5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 464
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Post

Thanks for the quick response!

I race here: http://rvrccc.awardspace.com/

It's quite tight in places. White and blue are hard and very hard, does everyone run springs so hard? I don't suppose you know the weights? On my TC3 I used 19.5lbs (medium) on the front and 14.5lbs (soft) on the back.

If they worked on my TC3 are they likely to work on the MSX or is it not that simple (different cars need different weight springs etc...)

As for the rest of the car, do I start with similar settings to my TC3? (camber toe-in etc...)

Sorry for the newbie questions! Despite racing for many years I clearly don't have a clue how to set up cars!
daveaustin5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 05:13 PM   #18565
Tech Regular
 
stuey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TOP Racer
U guys mentioned that u are useing 3racing pulleys?Do any of u know where i can find some and what all do I need to do the conversion?I have an 415 msxx.Thanx

precision rc
stuey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 05:43 PM   #18566
Super Moderator
 
Grizzbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sand Springs, OK
Posts: 3,063
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveaustin5
Thanks for the quick response!

I race here: http://rvrccc.awardspace.com/

It's quite tight in places. White and blue are hard and very hard, does everyone run springs so hard? I don't suppose you know the weights? On my TC3 I used 19.5lbs (medium) on the front and 14.5lbs (soft) on the back.

If they worked on my TC3 are they likely to work on the MSX or is it not that simple (different cars need different weight springs etc...)

As for the rest of the car, do I start with similar settings to my TC3? (camber toe-in etc...)

Sorry for the newbie questions! Despite racing for many years I clearly don't have a clue how to set up cars!
It also depends alot on how much grip you have on that track. Even with carpet, it's possible to not get alot of grip, & in those conditions a diff or spool can be a VERY useful goody to have(I've just recently started using a spool on my MSX on our local carpet track, & I'm liking it, calmed the rear end down considerably, but didn't make me lose all my steering). Now about springs, yes, Associated springs will work, as I've used them quite a bit on my cars(converted over to Tamiyas back in November when I got fed up with chasing after setups on my TC4's, & I'm MUCH happier now ), though I don't quite remember where Tamiya's springs compare in stiffness(but TryHard's website does have that info available). As for the other settings, yes, I think they should be useful to at least some degree, though to start I'd suggest trying the car as it comes to you(you might find you like it better as is, or it could be very close to what you need out of the box, as mine was).....
__________________
Bob Seay
Tamiya TRF417, TA05v.2, TRF211XM, M-05ver.2R, XRAY X12, Associated B5m Factory Lite

Go Pokes!!!
Grizzbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 05:47 PM   #18567
Tech Regular
 
daveaustin5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 464
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks,

I've just come across tryhards website, it's very useful. I'l give the car a run as is and if it's off I'll adjust it to be similar to my TC3.

Thanks for the info guys.
daveaustin5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 06:01 PM   #18568
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,284
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveaustin5
Thanks for the quick response!

I race here: http://rvrccc.awardspace.com/

It's quite tight in places. White and blue are hard and very hard, does everyone run springs so hard? I don't suppose you know the weights? On my TC3 I used 19.5lbs (medium) on the front and 14.5lbs (soft) on the back.

If they worked on my TC3 are they likely to work on the MSX or is it not that simple (different cars need different weight springs etc...)

As for the rest of the car, do I start with similar settings to my TC3? (camber toe-in etc...)

Sorry for the newbie questions! Despite racing for many years I clearly don't have a clue how to set up cars!
Hi Dave,
track looks a decent size... I personally would start out with one-ways for that track, I don't think a diff would work too well (for rubbers).
Spring wise, Very Hard (white) are only 15.27lb, and Hard (blue) 14.08lb... so pretty similar to your TC3 really.
As for a setup...
Start off with something like this (and I'm assuming your car is box stock MSX)
Front;
Camber = 1.5
Droop = 5 on a gauge (measured under outer hinge pin) go to 6 if pushing on power
Toe-in = -0
Front arm sweep = 2 (B/XB blocks... if you have spares try B/A or D/D. B/XB gives a LOT of steering, maybe too much for rubber)
Front Shocks = Very Hard (White) Springs, 3 hole pistons, 40wt oil, no red foam (from above bladder inside shock)
Shock position = 3 on tower, 3 on arm
Front Axle = One-way
Camber link = 2mm under ball stud, hole 3 on bulkhead (just makes the car smoother and easier to drive

Rear;
Camber = 1.5
Droop = 4 on a gauge (measured under outer hinge pin)
Toe-in = -3 (XD/B rear blocks, if you have any extras try XA/D = 2.5 + Wider rear track)
Front Shocks = Hard (blue) Springs, 3 hole pistons, 35wt oil, no red foam (from above bladder inside shock)
Shock position = 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link = 2mm under ball stud, hole 2 on bulkhead (just makes the car smoother and easier to drive
Rear hub = Hole C, 1mm under ball stud
Centre drive = fixed or one-way

Now, that should be a pretty close base setup for running on carpet. however I should point out, that it will probably have a LOT more steering than your TC3. There may even be too much (given the front blocks... I'll explain in a bit), if so, try a harder front spring (17-18lb), or less rear droop (3 on a gauge).
If there is too much steering, I would put his down mainly too the front blocks on the car. B/XB is a very aggressive setup, with a lot of inital and mid corner steering, good for asphalt, not so good for carpet. Current front setup for the TRF guys seems to be B/A (indoors and out), which I've run and like very much.
What I'm refering too with the B/A etc codes is the blocks that the hinge pins mount into. Tamiya offer a range of these blocks in different widths, which allow you to vary the rear toe in and front arm sweep, and also vary the track width of the car. Most people (myself included) refer to them in Front to rear order, ie, front-front/front-rear, rear-front/rear-rear (for your MSX... B/XB, XD/B).
For indoors, a wider car is generally better, as it is more stable. Hence my suggestion to change the rear blocks to XA/D, which gives a wider rear, with less rear toe-in (I assume your running stock, if so 3 toe in is excessive, 2.5 - 2 is best).

Obviously, this may require buying some bits, however the setup I posted should be a good starting point if you've got itchy fingers and want to run it

If it helps, having a full range of suspension blocks is one of the tuning parts I would suggest are required for the 415, along with;
full spring set
full roll bar set
Spool and one-way front axle
fixed and one-way centre drives
apart from that there really aren't any other parts required that are vital to tune the car to rubber/carpet

(there are other tuning parts that help... but for just starting out with a 415, they'll cover you)

HiH... be prepared to take a leap in laptimes when you first run it
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 06:05 PM   #18569
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,284
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

forgot to mention the most prolific answer in this thread....

block widths, widest to narrowest

1E, 1D, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1X, 1XA, 1XB, 1XC, 1XD

0.5 of toe/sweep between each step.

if you find blocks without a 1 infront of the letter, they are for the Evo4 and are 1mm higher, which raises the roll centre of the car.

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2007, 06:15 PM   #18570
Tech Regular
 
daveaustin5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 464
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Hi Dave,
track looks a decent size... I personally would start out with one-ways for that track, I don't think a diff would work too well (for rubbers).
Spring wise, Very Hard (white) are only 15.27lb, and Hard (blue) 14.08lb... so pretty similar to your TC3 really.
As for a setup...
Start off with something like this (and I'm assuming your car is box stock MSX)
Front;
Camber = 1.5
Droop = 5 on a gauge (measured under outer hinge pin) go to 6 if pushing on power
Toe-in = -0
Front arm sweep = 2 (B/XB blocks... if you have spares try B/A or D/D. B/XB gives a LOT of steering, maybe too much for rubber)
Front Shocks = Very Hard (White) Springs, 3 hole pistons, 40wt oil, no red foam (from above bladder inside shock)
Shock position = 3 on tower, 3 on arm
Front Axle = One-way
Camber link = 2mm under ball stud, hole 3 on bulkhead (just makes the car smoother and easier to drive

Rear;
Camber = 1.5
Droop = 4 on a gauge (measured under outer hinge pin)
Toe-in = -3 (XD/B rear blocks, if you have any extras try XA/D = 2.5 + Wider rear track)
Front Shocks = Hard (blue) Springs, 3 hole pistons, 35wt oil, no red foam (from above bladder inside shock)
Shock position = 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link = 2mm under ball stud, hole 2 on bulkhead (just makes the car smoother and easier to drive
Rear hub = Hole C, 1mm under ball stud
Centre drive = fixed or one-way

Now, that should be a pretty close base setup for running on carpet. however I should point out, that it will probably have a LOT more steering than your TC3. There may even be too much (given the front blocks... I'll explain in a bit), if so, try a harder front spring (17-18lb), or less rear droop (3 on a gauge).
If there is too much steering, I would put his down mainly too the front blocks on the car. B/XB is a very aggressive setup, with a lot of inital and mid corner steering, good for asphalt, not so good for carpet. Current front setup for the TRF guys seems to be B/A (indoors and out), which I've run and like very much.
What I'm refering too with the B/A etc codes is the blocks that the hinge pins mount into. Tamiya offer a range of these blocks in different widths, which allow you to vary the rear toe in and front arm sweep, and also vary the track width of the car. Most people (myself included) refer to them in Front to rear order, ie, front-front/front-rear, rear-front/rear-rear (for your MSX... B/XB, XD/B).
For indoors, a wider car is generally better, as it is more stable. Hence my suggestion to change the rear blocks to XA/D, which gives a wider rear, with less rear toe-in (I assume your running stock, if so 3 toe in is excessive, 2.5 - 2 is best).

Obviously, this may require buying some bits, however the setup I posted should be a good starting point if you've got itchy fingers and want to run it

If it helps, having a full range of suspension blocks is one of the tuning parts I would suggest are required for the 415, along with;
full spring set
full roll bar set
Spool and one-way front axle
fixed and one-way centre drives
apart from that there really aren't any other parts required that are vital to tune the car to rubber/carpet

(there are other tuning parts that help... but for just starting out with a 415, they'll cover you)

HiH... be prepared to take a leap in laptimes when you first run it
Thanks for that! It really is appreciated. I love this site!

Here is a pic of my car (I'm expecting to receive it in a couple of days)

I'm guessing the blue braces are the 'blocks' you're talking about.

As for a front one way, would it have to be a Tamiya one or do others fit? Whats the difference between a one way and a solid axel?
daveaustin5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TAMIYA TRF415 Xray XB8 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 32 04-04-2008 08:50 PM
Tamiya TRF415 Crashmaster R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 12-13-2006 04:48 PM
Tamiya TRF415 MS NIB koabich R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 11-11-2005 07:28 AM
F/S Tamiya TRF415 rraden R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 20 06-10-2005 09:02 PM
Tamiya Evo IV or TRF415 TheDevil Electric On-Road 23 10-15-2004 07:27 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:02 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net