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Old 05-03-2007, 06:44 AM   #18241
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I just installed a new lower deck for stick type batteries on my TRF415MS and thought I would share some pics.

And in a previous post I asked the question: Besides the maintenance issue, are there any other things about the MSX that make it better than the MS? I am running 540, so would upgrading make much of a difference?

Last edited by miccal; 10-08-2007 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:37 AM   #18242
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Miccal: The MSX is far better maintence wize. As for as performance, the MS is a dialed car. It just has that 3mm chassis, which on many tracks is too stiff.
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:25 AM   #18243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Stark
Miccal: The MSX is far better maintence wize. As for as performance, the MS is a dialed car. It just has that 3mm chassis, which on many tracks is too stiff.
MS has a 2.5mm chassis not 3mm.
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:59 AM   #18244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
MS has a 2.5mm chassis not 3mm.

Actually it's 2.7
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Old 05-03-2007, 10:11 AM   #18245
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Wich parts do i need to put the "old" steering on the 415MSXX?
Can someone give me the part numbers of the needed stuff?

Thanks

Arjen
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:01 PM   #18246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miccal
Besides the maintenance issue, are there any other things about the MSX that make it better than the MS? I am running 540, so would upgrading make much of a difference?
One change that can be noticed is how the camber links are mounted.. the 415/415MS has the carbon plates (plate in the rear, top deck in the front) on the bulkhead where the links were attached, and while it can be tight, the ball end inside the carbon holes can shift when it takes a hit, often enough after a round your settings and tweak is skewed.

The MSX corrects this by screwing the links directly into the bulkhead, no chance of wiggling there, not to mention there are now multiple positions for the links to mount, not just one.
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Old 05-03-2007, 02:01 PM   #18247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL
marc prob running brushed as checkpoint doesnt make brushless......



TRYHARD: what size shim are you running under your mre steering? and where exactly do these shims go? thanks!
Currently use 1.5mm. They go behind the ball stud on steering cross brace. I'm finding that for stock, this works quite well. Also using the rear ball joint on the hub, just remember to re-set your steering links length, as the different positions affect the link length.

I'm going to try more this weekend, see what the change is

Nexxus; if you find the MRE steering too sensitive, simply move the link back on the hub, this really helps to calm the steering down.

HiH
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Old 05-03-2007, 04:28 PM   #18248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
Actually it's 2.7
Actually, since I have the lower deck for stick batteries it is 3mm.
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Old 05-03-2007, 04:48 PM   #18249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Currently use 1.5mm. They go behind the ball stud on steering cross brace. I'm finding that for stock, this works quite well. Also using the rear ball joint on the hub, just remember to re-set your steering links length, as the different positions affect the link length.

I'm going to try more this weekend, see what the change is

Nexxus; if you find the MRE steering too sensitive, simply move the link back on the hub, this really helps to calm the steering down.

HiH
Ed
Should mention on this point, I'm actually using the hex headed ball joints (as per the MSXX). These are 0.5mm shorter than the MRE spec steering ball joints, and 1mm shorter than the standard ball joints.
If your using the standard MRE balls, use 1mm in place of the 0.5mm shim

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Old 05-04-2007, 06:07 AM   #18250
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Hello guys,

I have a little question:

I bought some wheel-hub bearings (5x9x3) and when i placed them in the hub put the axle true it and placed the little 0.1mm shim on the axle ,then i tryed to put the wheelpin true the hole but i cant get it in...then i took the 0.1mm shim out and its ok...can i drive without the 0.1mm shim between the bearing and wheelpin????I hope the wheelpin dont rub against the wheelhub bearing.

hope some advice!
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:13 AM   #18251
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I had to do that for some reason when i changed to the standard steel axles. It runs fine now. Just expect to see a bit of the blue anodizing to be worn away next time you take the hexes off.

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Old 05-04-2007, 06:42 AM   #18252
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Ok, thx m8 for the advice...

somebody has a good setup or tips to run on dusty,small,technical,very-lowtraction,sandtracks?Yes we have a track in BE that has all the things what i sayed above! Maybe a good parking lot setup?

I run the MRE and mod 5cell on LRP vtec30 tires .I placed the short arms on my car...i dont no it will give more grip but it will give more steering to get true all the technical parts of the track.

I heard the HPI gold-silver springs are good to run very-low grip tracks...

And what do u think about 2a3mm shock rebound or full rebound?

I know there are some low-grip or dusty parking lot tracks around the world and some guys build a good setup or know some tricks to get more traction around the car...thx 4 the advice!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-04-2007, 07:48 AM   #18253
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This month RC Magazine Tamiya in Hobby show have Blue SSG upper deck & lower deck for 415MSXX !
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:28 AM   #18254
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How often do you guys replace the front CVD's? Mine have started clicking, I replaced the axle and cross joint, and have noticed wear on the shaft (didn't have one to replace it though) is it a regular thing that needs to be done or should these never need replacing? I lube with a light coating of Tamiya antiwear grease and then add graphite powder.
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Old 05-05-2007, 02:08 AM   #18255
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Are they the lightweight axles?

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