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Old 03-22-2007, 01:49 PM   #17926
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guys, need help.
My MSXX front wheels rattles badly when steering is at max or near max, both left and right.
Does any MSXX owner has this problem?
The steering cranks did not touch the belt.
BTW setup was B/A at front, balldiff & center direct. The rest are pretty much default. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 03-22-2007, 01:58 PM   #17927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTO2
guys, need help.
My MSXX front wheels rattles badly when steering is at max or near max, both left and right.
Does any MSXX owner has this problem?
The steering cranks did not touch the belt.
BTW setup was B/A at front, balldiff & center direct. The rest are pretty much default. Any help is appreciated.
Check to make sure there is no bind in the CVA's at full turn. You may have gotten loctite on the coupler by accident.
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Old 03-22-2007, 01:59 PM   #17928
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Hey Mr Caster,

Where ya been? long time no post in here...
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:23 PM   #17929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Check to make sure there is no bind in the CVA's at full turn. You may have gotten loctite on the coupler by accident.
thanks for the input dude..
i removed both CVAs, dismantle them and put them back together, no bind.
But the CVA itself was not smooth at full angle, feels 'bumpy', not sure if this is normal and would it have anything to do with the rattle.

After mounting all back in place, i removed the linkages to the steering cranks so that the knuckles are free to move. As i set fix throttle and move the knuckles towards it max turning position, it happened again... haiz..
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:08 PM   #17930
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Could be worth replacing the cross joint in the CVD, that that issue in my TA05, replaced the cross joint and all good!
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:43 PM   #17931
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i swapped the rear alloy CVAs to the front, felt better. Both are of 46mm.
Had a 2nd look on the steel CVA that was having problem, no bent no bind, no damage.... clueless...
I'm still waiting if other MSXX owner opinion if they have similar problem to confirm.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:02 AM   #17932
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i have only run a front oneway and spool in my MSXX. i did notice that there was alot more chatter with the spool than the oneway. i am not sure about the chatter with a diff in front though.

i the only possible causes i could think of would be a grub screw binding on the wheel axle at full lock, the screw that comes up through the C Hub into the steering knuckle could be too long and is touching the whee axle.

i think the problem would definitely be around the the steering knuckle and hub carrier area, including the wheel axle and swing shaft. the best i can suggest is a complete teardown and rebuild of the front suspension. it might be time consuming, but is the best way to eliminate all possible causes.

hope that helps.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:19 AM   #17933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTO2
i swapped the rear alloy CVAs to the front, felt better. Both are of 46mm.
Had a 2nd look on the steel CVA that was having problem, no bent no bind, no damage.... clueless...
I'm still waiting if other MSXX owner opinion if they have similar problem to confirm.
Did you physically pull it apart and replace the cross joint (the thing that holds the shaft to the axle) as 90% of wear is in that thing.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:30 AM   #17934
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Hi Guy's
I need a little help
I am using the David Jun droop system and need help.
Okay
My tyres are sorex 36 R = 63.0mm
I half that = 31.5mm
add 2mm for the axle Total = 33.5mm
Minus height from Axle to base of set up board = 24.5mm
Difference between is 9.00mm
Minus ride height is Front 5.5/ droop total 3.5mm
rear ride height 6.0/ droop total is 3.0mm
Is this correct please
Can some one please tell me If I am using the correct Jun method here, I have done as i have read and just wanted to make sure
Thanks
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:50 AM   #17935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRacer
i have only run a front oneway and spool in my MSXX. i did notice that there was alot more chatter with the spool than the oneway. i am not sure about the chatter with a diff in front though.

i the only possible causes i could think of would be a grub screw binding on the wheel axle at full lock, the screw that comes up through the C Hub into the steering knuckle could be too long and is touching the whee axle.

i think the problem would definitely be around the the steering knuckle and hub carrier area, including the wheel axle and swing shaft. the best i can suggest is a complete teardown and rebuild of the front suspension. it might be time consuming, but is the best way to eliminate all possible causes.

hope that helps.
I think the chatter is normal. It has something to do with the Universal Joints snagging at a certain angle. You can reduce the chatter by having the driveshafts in alternate positions in the drive cups in relation to the each other.
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:20 AM   #17936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRacer
i have only run a front oneway and spool in my MSXX. i did notice that there was alot more chatter with the spool than the oneway. i am not sure about the chatter with a diff in front though.

i the only possible causes i could think of would be a grub screw binding on the wheel axle at full lock, the screw that comes up through the C Hub into the steering knuckle could be too long and is touching the whee axle.

i think the problem would definitely be around the the steering knuckle and hub carrier area, including the wheel axle and swing shaft. the best i can suggest is a complete teardown and rebuild of the front suspension. it might be time consuming, but is the best way to eliminate all possible causes.

hope that helps.
thanks for your input RocketRacer.
grub screw was properly secured. Nothing comes in contact with the wheels except the hex hub, checked.
wheel axle are true (even confirmed with replacing both with rear alloy CVA-still feel very mild chatter, not as worse as the steel ones).
I've tear down numerous times, compare part by part left to right to spot any abnormalities, twist, deformation etc, zilch finding.
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:26 AM   #17937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
I think the chatter is normal. It has something to do with the Universal Joints snagging at a certain angle. You can reduce the chatter by having the driveshafts in alternate positions in the drive cups in relation to the each other.
Thanks Racing4Evo,
that would probably is the case. Comparing the alloy CVA and the steel ones, dimensionally they are the same but the alloy CVA felt less chattering. Could it be the rotating mass (long shot) but... can't help scratching head here.
Driveshafts in alternate positions? you mean try other susp arm's mounting blocks combination? I suppose i can make certain amount of CVA angle corrections with that. Thanks, i'll try.
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:30 AM   #17938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
Did you physically pull it apart and replace the cross joint (the thing that holds the shaft to the axle) as 90% of wear is in that thing.
i did physically dismantle the whole thing but didn't replace the cross joint. It practically has no wear yet as i've just had the car for less than a month, mostly run with 23T motor. No major accidents.
I do notice that TA05 has much less steering angle on the CVA at max steering position and obviously no ratlle.
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:31 AM   #17939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Hey Mr Caster,

Where ya been? long time no post in here...
Just been taking a little break to concentrate on work. Asphault season is here and I'll be at the track again
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:38 AM   #17940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTO2
Thanks Racing4Evo,
that would probably is the case. Comparing the alloy CVA and the steel ones, dimensionally they are the same but the alloy CVA felt less chattering. Could it be the rotating mass (long shot) but... can't help scratching head here.
Driveshafts in alternate positions? you mean try other susp arm's mounting blocks combination? I suppose i can make certain amount of CVA angle corrections with that. Thanks, i'll try.
There will always be some chatter and you shouldn't worry about it. Unless you can come up with a CVD that is actually a real CVD and not a fake CVD. The reason why you have less chatter with the alloy ones is that aluminium is a lot softer and consequently twists slightly where the steel one stay a lot straighter under vibration.
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