R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-20-2007, 05:08 PM   #17911
Tech Master
 
Burlap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,277
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Burlap
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRacer
TryHard, do you have a possible base setup for my situation. Mod, foams, outdoor,asphalt. i am running a 3.5 Brushless motor in my MSXX. any help would be much appreciated.

When I ran foams on my 415 outdoors, I found the white springs were firm enough to get grip. 50-60wt oil. YMMV with the faster motor however.
Burlap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 05:18 PM   #17912
Tech Master
 
nikkiesteban's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,649
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to nikkiesteban
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
MSX is a very capable car it can work on any surface, i think Hupo still runs his instead of the MRE. MSX has LW suspension so it can change direction quicker and is usually the standard for outdoor racing. The MSX has also other little things such as blue shocks, gold Ti shock and suspension shafts and aluminion rear hubs.

Charles
i see.. going to MRE is a bit pricey for me.. About the drive train how free is the drive train of the msx?
nikkiesteban is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 08:37 PM   #17913
Tech Master
 
veecee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,439
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
Also. can I run the MRE lower deck (to make use of the air vents for the motor) or does it need some mods? Have heard some stories of changing steering positions, want to keep with the MSX set up, so the option is an MRE/MSXX lower deck, or a 4mm MSX lower deck.
As I've mentioned before (though a few pages ago now), MRE lower deck has holes for both MSX and MRE steering setups. So you can run either steering setup. However the upper decks are specific.
__________________
SMOKEM --- XPRESS --- MONTECH --- SRT
veecee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 05:36 PM   #17914
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: UK, Bedfordshire
Posts: 47
Default

[QUOTE=TryHard]Blue247carz; Which car are you running? MRE or MSX?
I did the national at Southend last year with my MSX... and for the life of me can't find the setup I used (or any of the other national ones...), still a good starting point would be...

Drive; Spool + Locked centre
Shocks; HPI Blue or Tam Yellow Springs all round 30-35wt oil, 3 hole pistons, Front hole 2 in tower, 3 in arm, rear 4 tower, 3 arm.
Roll bars; Yellow all round
Suspension block; B/XB front, XC/B rear, no shims (although you could also try the now favoured B/A, and XA/D combination)
Camber links; Front 2mm, Hole 3, rear bulkhead 1mm hole 2, rear hub position B, 1mm.
Rideheight, 5.5mm Front, 6mm Rear
Droop; 5 Front, 3 rear (the rear setting is an important one, as otherwise the car will ride the droop screw round the sweeper, then snap out before the chicane at the end of the straight)

If you don't want to run roll bars, try HPI silver or Tam blue springs instead.

Cheers for the reply, I am currently running the MRE with the short reversable arms and the mounts B/A front & XB/D rear = 2.5mm
I will be running 19t KD Demon not Mod.
I have tried the softer yellow and blue springs but they seem to give slower times around the local outdoor Bedworth track than the combination I currently run which is White front 40wt & Yellow rear 35wt with the red foam spacers in the top of shock and 3 holes. I have seen people run without the spacer but do not know what this does?
I have also found that the blue thick roll bar all round gives the car more grip than the original black ones.
But as you are saying the top boys do run yellow springs all round and soft roll bars. Is this just a modified thing or will it work for a slower 19t speed?

I can send my current setup for you to have a gander if you like, see if you can see any probs.
I do tend to find the car has nice turn in but washes a bit on mid corner, also can be difficult to drive on the limit. Springs may be the prob but just always found whites quicker especially for 27t class.

Cheers Paul Pinkney
blue247carz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 09:06 PM   #17915
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Janesville, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,861
Trader Rating: 112 (100%+)
Default New 415 Owner

Hello,
I bought a 415(1st version).
What is the internal gear ratio?
Also what parts can I use to make a ball diff for the front?
I have a oneway in now.
Thank you for the help
Dave
__________________
Sponsors: YuK-Foo Tire Prep
dragracer72nova is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 09:10 PM   #17916
Tech Master
 
g12314's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Chicago, IL.
Posts: 1,281
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to g12314 Send a message via Yahoo to g12314
Default

2.1875

Yokomo parts were used to make the first diffs. I believe Tamiya sells one now however. If your running indoor Carpet w\ rubber Tires I would stick w\ the one-way.

Jimmy
__________________
"PREPARE TO QUALIFY"
g12314 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 10:25 PM   #17917
Tech Master
 
f1larry's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Buffalo Grove, IL
Posts: 1,770
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to f1larry
Default

53921 aluminum diff for the 415
51055 35 tooth diff gear
__________________
Windy City RC Raceway & Hobbies, Arlington Heights, IL
Exotek F1R3|X-Ray T4 16|CRC Xti Altered Ego|Associated B5M|TT02|TA05|TL01RA|TL01|
f1larry is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 11:28 PM   #17918
Tech Master
 
buboy28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: manila,philippines
Posts: 1,601
Send a message via AIM to buboy28 Send a message via Yahoo to buboy28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikkiesteban
i see.. going to MRE is a bit pricey for me.. About the drive train how free is the drive train of the msx?
MSX drivetrain are nice no need to worry plus it is using the white low friction belts so its a very free drivetrain
buboy28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 12:34 AM   #17919
Tech Champion
 
nexxus's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,100
Trader Rating: 302 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Attached is a base setup to try, it's a combination of the maritime one, with updates that I know work from my recent setups for the MRE.

With regard to the bottom plates, yes you can use the one from the MRE or MSXX, as they both still have the holes drilled for the old steering system, so just a case of bolting it on.

HiH
Ed

Panoramic view of track if anyone is interested and/or has suggestions.

http://www.rcracephotos.com/special/eponroad.html
__________________
A800 / A800X Awesomatix

Don't worry about what I'm doing.
Worry about why you're worried about what I'm doing.

"Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity."

nexxus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 03:33 AM   #17920
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,283
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue247carz
Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Blue247carz; Which car are you running? MRE or MSX?
I did the national at Southend last year with my MSX... and for the life of me can't find the setup I used (or any of the other national ones...), still a good starting point would be...

Drive; Spool + Locked centre
Shocks; HPI Blue or Tam Yellow Springs all round 30-35wt oil, 3 hole pistons, Front hole 2 in tower, 3 in arm, rear 4 tower, 3 arm.
Roll bars; Yellow all round
Suspension block; B/XB front, XC/B rear, no shims (although you could also try the now favoured B/A, and XA/D combination)
Camber links; Front 2mm, Hole 3, rear bulkhead 1mm hole 2, rear hub position B, 1mm.
Rideheight, 5.5mm Front, 6mm Rear
Droop; 5 Front, 3 rear (the rear setting is an important one, as otherwise the car will ride the droop screw round the sweeper, then snap out before the chicane at the end of the straight)

If you don't want to run roll bars, try HPI silver or Tam blue springs instead.
Cheers for the reply, I am currently running the MRE with the short reversable arms and the mounts B/A front & XB/D rear = 2.5mm
I will be running 19t KD Demon not Mod.
I have tried the softer yellow and blue springs but they seem to give slower times around the local outdoor Bedworth track than the combination I currently run which is White front 40wt & Yellow rear 35wt with the red foam spacers in the top of shock and 3 holes. I have seen people run without the spacer but do not know what this does?
I have also found that the blue thick roll bar all round gives the car more grip than the original black ones.
But as you are saying the top boys do run yellow springs all round and soft roll bars. Is this just a modified thing or will it work for a slower 19t speed?

I can send my current setup for you to have a gander if you like, see if you can see any probs.
I do tend to find the car has nice turn in but washes a bit on mid corner, also can be difficult to drive on the limit. Springs may be the prob but just always found whites quicker especially for 27t class.

Cheers Paul Pinkney
Hi Paul,
I'll admit I haven't run my MRE outside for a whie now, so am a little out of touch on the setup for it. However, if I remember, Bedworth is smoooth, something southend certainly isn't. I'm pretty sure southend is tighter and more technical too.
Sounds like your setup is not far off the kit setup for the MRE. The MRE does seem to prefer a stiffer front spring (due too the steering setup), I guess thats why it's standard setup of Blue front, yellow rear springs. Also, the std black roll bars are medium front, soft rear.
I would think of going softer for southend, mainly due too the bumps.
Have you tried blue on the front? The white could be part of the reason for washing out mid corner... although I do have another theory for that.
Where abouts are you running you steering links? front hole in hub, with 0.5mm behind? If so, I found that really tricky to drive, so I moved the steering arms back in the hub, which helped, and then recently (albeit on carpet, when I was experiencing a vacuum of mid-corner speed ) I added shims behind the ackerman ballstuds, and this settled the car down more.

Shocks don't sound far off... maybe 35/30 for southend.
The foam bushing has the effect of increasing the pack of the shock, as it stops the rubber diaphragm from collapsing under pressure. This makes the shock initially more resistant to motion, until the oil flows through the piston holes. Removing it allows the diaphragm to collapse a little under load, which softens the initial resistance of the shock, and smooths out the action. It makes the shock feel about 10wt lower in oil. (ie a 60wt/no foam feels similar to a 50wt/foam)

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 04:36 AM   #17921
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2
Default

Which is better in MSX the stock pulley pitch or the ta05 pulley pitch?

Last edited by marklitero; 03-22-2007 at 05:46 AM.
marklitero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 05:46 AM   #17922
Tech Master
 
buboy28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: manila,philippines
Posts: 1,601
Send a message via AIM to buboy28 Send a message via Yahoo to buboy28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by marklitero
oh good. thanks sir buboy28. Which is better in MSX the stock pulley pitch or the ta05 pulley pitch?
do not know if the pulley from the TA-05 will fit the MSX but if its the MRE the TA-05 pulley will fit. stock pulley of the MSX is good enough but if the TA-05 pulley will fit better get those wide pitch pulley
buboy28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 07:30 AM   #17923
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: UK, Bedfordshire
Posts: 47
Default

Hi Paul,
I'll admit I haven't run my MRE outside for a whie now, so am a little out of touch on the setup for it. However, if I remember, Bedworth is smoooth, something southend certainly isn't. I'm pretty sure southend is tighter and more technical too.
Sounds like your setup is not far off the kit setup for the MRE. The MRE does seem to prefer a stiffer front spring (due too the steering setup), I guess thats why it's standard setup of Blue front, yellow rear springs. Also, the std black roll bars are medium front, soft rear.
I would think of going softer for southend, mainly due too the bumps.
Have you tried blue on the front? The white could be part of the reason for washing out mid corner... although I do have another theory for that.
Where abouts are you running you steering links? front hole in hub, with 0.5mm behind? If so, I found that really tricky to drive, so I moved the steering arms back in the hub, which helped, and then recently (albeit on carpet, when I was experiencing a vacuum of mid-corner speed ) I added shims behind the ackerman ballstuds, and this settled the car down more.

Shocks don't sound far off... maybe 35/30 for southend.
The foam bushing has the effect of increasing the pack of the shock, as it stops the rubber diaphragm from collapsing under pressure. This makes the shock initially more resistant to motion, until the oil flows through the piston holes. Removing it allows the diaphragm to collapse a little under load, which softens the initial resistance of the shock, and smooths out the action. It makes the shock feel about 10wt lower in oil. (ie a 60wt/no foam feels similar to a 50wt/foam)

HiH
Ed

Take a look at my current setup if you will,

Front:

1B/1A bridge both spaced 1mm underneath both
Short reversable suspension with HPI hubs and Tamiya 4deg C hubs
Standard Tamiya 5mm blue hexes
Steering link rear hole which is just a tad further forward than Tam rear hole
3mm spacers to adjust acherman angle back on steering block
2mm spacers under inside front camber link
Camber link in 3rd hole
3mm top deck Fibrelyte
Tam Spool
Blue roll bar
TIR CVD's
.5deg neg camber
40wt oil white springs 3 hole
outer hole at bottom and 2nd hole down at top
6mm ride height 6mm droop

Rear:

1D/1XA with 1mm spaced underneath both
Short Reversable arms standard 0deg hubs and hexes with 1mm spacers
2mm spacers under inner camber link at inner hole
3mm spacer under outer camber link in middle hole B
6mm ride height 4mm droop
blue rool bar
35wt oil yellow springs outer hole on bottom 2nd hole down top
1 deg neg camber 2.5deg toe
standard chassis
ceramic diff balls

Car runs 186mm front & rear track

Cheers Paul
blue247carz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 07:54 AM   #17924
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,283
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hi Paul,

That all sounds pretty good. Does seem that your running a lot of spacers behind the ackerman ball-stud, any reason for this? The rule of thumb goes, more spacers = more steering, I'm just wondering if the ammount of spacers is compormising other areas of the setup (ie, if you having to take away inital steering by running a stiffer spring, you could be compromising your mid-corner and exit traction).

Then again, if your happy with the setup, run it like that, most of the changes you'll probably make would be quick and easy (spring/roll bar etc). I've nearly always found that if having to change your base setup loads to run someones track specific setup it's never that good an idea, simply as you won't be used to how it works.

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 08:49 AM   #17925
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: UK, Bedfordshire
Posts: 47
Default

[QUOTE=TryHard]Hi Paul,

That all sounds pretty good. Does seem that your running a lot of spacers behind the ackerman ball-stud, any reason for this? The rule of thumb goes, more spacers = more steering, I'm just wondering if the ammount of spacers is compormising other areas of the setup (ie, if you having to take away inital steering by running a stiffer spring, you could be compromising your mid-corner and exit traction).

Then again, if your happy with the setup, run it like that, most of the changes you'll probably make would be quick and easy (spring/roll bar etc). I've nearly always found that if having to change your base setup loads to run someones track specific setup it's never that good an idea, simply as you won't be used to how it works.

Hi Ed

Sorry the spacer is 2mm not 3mm, that would be alot.
The reason for running the larger spacer behind the steering arms is to bring the acherman angle back to the original angle when I was running the Tamiya Hubs on the outer hole. If I reduce this spacer the angle becomes greater and the steering more aggressive.

I may be dialing out the initial turn in with the use of the harder springs and just as you say once the car has rolled the spring is too hard and scrubs slightly, but I do find that the softer spring does make the car lose some corner speed as there is more roll, weight transfur and grip.
I suppose you can throttle more to compensate with 19t against 27t as long as the spool doesn't make the car understeer.
I will try the different springs if I get a chance before quali and will adjust the droop to 5 and 3 as you said for the sweeper.

Cheers for all your help, hope I don't embaress myself to much :0(

Paul
blue247carz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TAMIYA TRF415 Xray XB8 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 32 04-04-2008 08:50 PM
Tamiya TRF415 Crashmaster R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 12-13-2006 04:48 PM
Tamiya TRF415 MS NIB koabich R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 11-11-2005 07:28 AM
F/S Tamiya TRF415 rraden R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 20 06-10-2005 09:02 PM
Tamiya Evo IV or TRF415 TheDevil Electric On-Road 23 10-15-2004 07:27 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:34 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net