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Old 03-18-2007, 10:11 PM   #17881
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Has anyone got any suggestions for a carpet set up on an MSX. Took it out first run for state titles, and well, dead last in 540

Am intending to do a rebuild, as the arms have a lot of slop and there is no spacer between the wheel bearings, (Replaced the C Hubs and Flanged tubes before the event as the tubes were installed upside down and the hubs were stripped) and I think a twin ball diff set up would work better as it's quite a technical tight track.

Any ideas for ride height, shock locations, springs etc?

Using Take Off CS22's and Mazda Speed 6 Shell.

Would pro module suspension help? One thing that most competitive drivers had was rear shocks laying right in.
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:45 AM   #17882
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My set up guide for the MSX on carpet.

1. Check that there is no excessive friction or slop in the suspension, dampers and wheel axles. It is also impartant that the diff is smooth.

2. Put the chassis to rest on support blocks (for example Hudy Chassis Droop Gauge Support Blocks) one just behind the motor and the other under the steering system.

3. Loosen the screws to the top deck, push down the chassis to the support blocks and tighten the screws to the top deck. Now the chassis is straight.

4. Measure that the damper springs are preloaded equally L to R with a 5 mm ride height. Now the corner weights L to R are about equal.

5. Put a 0.5 or 1 mm aluminium roll center spacer under both rear suspension blocks.

Now you have a good base to try different springs, damping and droop settings front and rear to find a good balance. If it still isn't handling well the problem should be the tyres.

I recommend to always use a spool with rubber tyres. You will loose some corner speed into tight corners but still use the spool until the car and driving is perfect then you can try the one way.
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:53 PM   #17883
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Default JAAD Front Diff

Has anybody built a JAAD front diff ?

It is built without using all the parts , ie the shim(betweent the 860 bearings) and plastic 2mm nut retainer.

I find the nut just undoes ... seems all bit odd.

Thanks for any reply
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Old 03-19-2007, 02:03 PM   #17884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyuk99
Has anybody built a JAAD front diff ?

It is built without using all the parts , ie the shim(betweent the 860 bearings) and plastic 2mm nut retainer.

I find the nut just undoes ... seems all bit odd.

Thanks for any reply
I've built one andy... and I think I know your issue. You don't need the nut retainer, as the nut sits in a hex cut out in one of the outdrives.

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Old 03-19-2007, 02:18 PM   #17885
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I bought two ... guess what no machined hex in one of the drives ..

So deffective part .. I will email them for another

Thanks for the reply Ed


Last edited by Andyg01; 03-19-2007 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 03-19-2007, 02:45 PM   #17886
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no worries andy,
Got the scoop today btw, already fitted it
Thanks
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Old 03-19-2007, 02:46 PM   #17887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
Has anyone got any suggestions for a carpet set up on an MSX. Took it out first run for state titles, and well, dead last in 540

Am intending to do a rebuild, as the arms have a lot of slop and there is no spacer between the wheel bearings, (Replaced the C Hubs and Flanged tubes before the event as the tubes were installed upside down and the hubs were stripped) and I think a twin ball diff set up would work better as it's quite a technical tight track.

Any ideas for ride height, shock locations, springs etc?

Using Take Off CS22's and Mazda Speed 6 Shell.

Would pro module suspension help? One thing that most competitive drivers had was rear shocks laying right in.
Nex,

Twin Ball diff is the way id go also with a locked centre diff. Pro Mod suspension wont help, havent heard anyone using that anymore. I heard the results showed it didnt help... in any conditions really. Nothing that changing a few std things on the car would do. Laying in the rear shocks gives the car more rear grip on corner entry, so the car isnt twitchy when you enter the corner. Good idea on rubber tires, but you can go too far. Id prefer to run a little more rear toe in before i layed the shocks right over (id prefer to have some room to move the shocks, at least one hole)

Id start with tamiya yellow springs, about 50-60wt oil, 3 piston shocks, id run 5mm front and rear, id limit the droop to .5-2mm on the rear for sure (try it and see) and leave the front droop around 5-7mm. I remember trying red sway bars also (its been a long while since i tried rubber on carpet!) Id change your blocks to give you 2 deg toe in on the rear (at least). Id have about 1 deg camber all round. Id get aggresive on the upper links tho. Id run .5mm shim on the inside rear upper link, 3mm on the outer rear upper link, and 1mm under the inside front upper link. add more shims under the front inside link if you get too much oversteer. Id raise it until you get a decent amount of steering, while making sure its not too aggressive for your driving.

Ive been running foam on carpet for too long now, but id reckon it might be in the ballpark on those specs. id try stiffer front springs also.... and softer rear. If i make it back to perth sometime in the future, ill bring along my gear and have a go again at precc. Later
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Old 03-19-2007, 03:01 PM   #17888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
Has anyone got any suggestions for a carpet set up on an MSX. Took it out first run for state titles, and well, dead last in 540

Am intending to do a rebuild, as the arms have a lot of slop and there is no spacer between the wheel bearings, (Replaced the C Hubs and Flanged tubes before the event as the tubes were installed upside down and the hubs were stripped) and I think a twin ball diff set up would work better as it's quite a technical tight track.

Any ideas for ride height, shock locations, springs etc?

Using Take Off CS22's and Mazda Speed 6 Shell.

Would pro module suspension help? One thing that most competitive drivers had was rear shocks laying right in.
Have a look at the setup I posted a few pages back, works really well with rubbers on the rug. If you find you struggle in the first few mins to generate grip, drop down to 0.5mm under the suspension blocks. Raising the suspension blocks will make the car more reactive too, which it sounds like you need for the tight and twisty.

Personally, I'm not a massive fan of a front ball diff... I think in over 3years of racing a 415, I've used one about 3 times, and that was only at one track which was very small and tight (probably 30ft x 50ft total area I guess). Still doesn't stop me having two in my pit box though...
All other times, I've used dual one-ways indoors. I have tried a spool, but switched back to the one-way. For a 540, I would really try to get the one-way working, simply as it makes the car more efficient. Hopefully that setup will give you a good starting point.

If you don't have the Short Lightweight arms, just run the car with the Std LWT Arms, and shocks in position 3.... and look to get the short ones with your next parts order, they really do work better than the long ones indoors.

Hope it helps.
Ed
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Old 03-19-2007, 03:51 PM   #17889
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HYBRID Alum. servo saver
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:10 PM   #17890
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Default Setup for Southend outdoor track STCC Coming

Hey guys, with the summer outdoor season starting next sunday I will hopefully be running in the STCC Corally champ if I ever get off reserve!!
First Race is at the notoriously bumpy Southend track which I have never ran at and will not be able to get any practice as I am turning up on the day. Has anyone got a quick but consistant setup for this track.
Apparently it used to be a buggy track and you need to run about 7mm ride height!!!!
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:33 PM   #17891
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Blue247carz; Which car are you running? MRE or MSX?
I did the national at Southend last year with my MSX... and for the life of me can't find the setup I used (or any of the other national ones...), still a good starting point would be...

Drive; Spool + Locked centre
Shocks; HPI Blue or Tam Yellow Springs all round 30-35wt oil, 3 hole pistons, Front hole 2 in tower, 3 in arm, rear 4 tower, 3 arm.
Roll bars; Yellow all round
Suspension block; B/XB front, XC/B rear, no shims (although you could also try the now favoured B/A, and XA/D combination)
Camber links; Front 2mm, Hole 3, rear bulkhead 1mm hole 2, rear hub position B, 1mm.
Rideheight, 5.5mm Front, 6mm Rear
Droop; 5 Front, 3 rear (the rear setting is an important one, as otherwise the car will ride the droop screw round the sweeper, then snap out before the chicane at the end of the straight)

If you don't want to run roll bars, try HPI silver or Tam blue springs instead.

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Last edited by TryHard; 03-20-2007 at 02:32 AM.
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Old 03-20-2007, 01:34 AM   #17892
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Ok so sounds like the short arms are a must, would I have to change the swingshafts to a different length, or could I still use the 46mm (if so, what suspension blocks could accommodate this.)

Spoke to some of the guys running Stock, seems Ball Diff for 540/Stock and Spool for Mod given the track, simply too technical for a one way (so will leave that to my TA05 which runs on a larger asphalt track)

Blue springs front, Yellow rear work if I didn't go for stabilizers?
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Old 03-20-2007, 02:31 AM   #17893
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Nexxus; Nope shouldn't be a need to change the swingshafts.
A few of us over here have been using wide blocks on the car on carpet (effectively using the MRE setup). For a Diff, I'd try B/A on the front, with X/D on the rear (giving 2deg of toe in).

Try and stick with White/Blue springs, as the stiffer spring will help intial reaction, and hold more corner speed. Roll bars aren't really needed on the rug (i find) as there shouldn't be any bumps... Try Blue/Blue if the car feels a little difficult to turn in, as you'll lose some steering with a diff over a one-way.

BTW, the setup I posted (here) has been used in both stock and 19t with good effect (both made A Finals at the Carpet Wars over here in the UK) so is pretty effective...

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Old 03-20-2007, 02:51 AM   #17894
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i need some help with my setup.

i am currently running foams on outdoor asphalt. brushless mod. the biggest problem is have been experiencing is major understeer on mid corner and corner exit.

how can i try and overcome this problem?

my setup is as follows.
front
60w Oil
3 hole piston
Tam Blue spring
no stabilizer bar
5.5mm ride height
5mm rebound stroke/droop
.5mm spacer under inner camber link
4degree caster
2degree camber
1 degree toe out
Locked centre shaft and spool in front
shocks are on 2nd hole from inside on tower and outer hole on suspension arm

rear
50w Oil
3 hole piston
Tam Yellow Spring
5.5mm ride height
yellow stabilizer bar
6mm rebound stroke/droop
.5mm spacer under inner camber link
3mm spacer under outer camber link
0degree hub
3 degrees toe in
shocks are on 2nd hole from inside on tower and outer hole on suspension arm
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Old 03-20-2007, 04:02 AM   #17895
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Hi Nexxus
I found a few spares,(sway bars,springs and odds and ends i will be more than glad to send to you for free if you want then.I am sorry about the stripped arms, The cups i always run upsisde down to make them smoother.
Let me know if you want the freebies
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