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Old 01-30-2007, 05:29 AM   #17326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pug 205 gti
ed its hard sometimes when your running against the grain.
but stick at it im sure lady luck will popup and shine on you again

on a good note myside ive found a track that only 20mins away instead of the 1 hr 20 mins i used to travel and the track is much bigger.i cant wait to get going but im still needing servo,esc.lipo.and avionics charger.
servo futaba s9550 or ko 2413ics
team orion lipo 3200 carbon(will it fit ok) the 4800 is huge!!! overkill on 19t???
esc ???? still looking at my options.waiting on the lrp tc just in case brushless taskes of here in the 19t

is there any of the uk lads offering a magnet zapping service???
ive got a can that could do with a zap!
Servo - I have two s9550, there fine. I've been told before that the 2413 is just an OEM version of the s9550... but I'm not too sure about the truth regarding that.
Batts - 3200LiPo should do fine... you'll have more than enough capacity in it and power in it. Was looking at getting one myself a while back.
ESC - MRT MX Very good (british) ESC... new Team version (better spec fets, more setup options) is out very soon. You can also get custom built ones, in the colours you want

Have a look in the UK racers thread here on rcTech (you'll find it in the Racing forum), I'm sure there'll be some one around who can help with the zapping.
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:13 AM   #17327
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Hey Guy's
Are the Orion GP Matched 4300 V-Max Plus RDS cells any good. Are they as good or better than 4200.
Thanks Guy's
Addam
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:53 AM   #17328
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trfmad this has been covered about five posts up
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:04 AM   #17329
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do you guys gently sand (1000grit wet and dry)your new rubber before adding adiditive??
sanwa m11 has just arrived and my ride shock air remover.im very impressed
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:20 AM   #17330
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Two options with new rubber...

1) apply additive from new, and hit the track in practise to bed the tyres in.
2) if going straight into Q or finals, take a dremel and rub off the bead in the centre of the tyres. Then additive.

Thats what I do at least
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:35 AM   #17331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hey Guy's
Are the Orion GP Matched 4300 V-Max Plus RDS cells any good. Are they as good or better than 4200.
Thanks Guy's
Addam
NO
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:29 AM   #17332
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Hi guys,
I have a recurring problem with my Rear Diff, it keeps coming loose after say 10 runs and usually I tighten it all the way in hand tight and loosen about 1 turn. What do I need to do to make it stay fit longer ? Or is this a common thing for aluminium diffs ?
Regards to all,
John
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Old 01-30-2007, 10:04 AM   #17333
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One thing is to never ever tighten fully then back off, it weakens the screw with the extra strain say the HB people...they should know . I'd replace the diff plates or sand them, replace the nut and spring. Just tighten so when you have 2 allen drivers through the diff outdrives you can't rotate the pulley. Check in the car by holding one wheel and the spur then try and rotate the other wheel. If you can rotate it tighten it

Charles
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:23 PM   #17334
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Hey John
Charles gave me the same advice a few months ago and I have not had any trouble. I run modified and my diff was doing the same as you. I did as Charles said and also changed my bearings. Useing the 2 allen key's is a great concept. My diff's DO NOT come loose now at all, and every time I rebuild them i use Charles method and I don't have any problem's anymore.
Addam
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:50 PM   #17335
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Hi Charles and Addam,
Thanks for the tips, will try doing that tonight, yea looks like the rings needs replacement, its got that deep groove already.
Cheers & thanks agains ,
John
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:30 PM   #17336
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Anyone in need of a carpet setup? Heres mine..up here in canada we do ALOT of carpet racing so heres a refined setup i have used at vegas, cleveland, novak and magma races.

Front:

x-ray 25lb spring
60wt w/ 2 hole piston
3rd hole down on shock tower
inner most hole on susp.(short arms)
4 degree caster
1.5 camber
longest front link with 3.75mm shims under inner link
D/D blocks with .5mm shim under both
.5 degree toe out
blue (kinked) swaybar
1mm droop
wheelbase: 6mm behind front arms
HPI pro4 knuckle/bearings with older tamiya axle(orig axle from 415MS)
PARMA magenta with glued edge

Rear:

x-ray 17.5lb spring
40wt w/3hole
3rd hole down on rear shock tower
inner most hole on susp. (short arm)
2 degree camber
0 degree rear hub
2.5 degree rear toe(3 when grip comes up)
camber link: inner hole on bulkhead and middle hole on hub w/ 1mm spacer under outer link and .5mm under inner
X/D blocks with .5mm shim under both
wheelbase: 6mm in front of rear arms
yellow swaybar
1.5mm droop
PARMA magenta unglued
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:30 PM   #17337
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Tis good eh?

lol cya at a race soon hopefully
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:51 PM   #17338
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Anyone know if Precision RC still actively selling stuff?


I emailed both accounts that I know of:

[email protected] on Jan. 22nd
[email protected] on Jan. 25th


also put info into the "contact us page" (Jan 25th) and filled out all the fields for checking stock on MRE parts. I wanted to make sure before ordering. Do they stock the parts that are on the website that you can put in the shopping cart?

Anybody dealt with him since the new year and received their order? I have had 2 good dealings with them in the past.
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:04 PM   #17339
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they have an live inventory
and so if it goes into your cart it is in stock

i just got $330 worth of parts from the last week
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:46 AM   #17340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proceed5
Hi Charles and Addam,
Thanks for the tips, will try doing that tonight, yea looks like the rings needs replacement, its got that deep groove already.
Cheers & thanks agains ,
John
Don't bother replacing them... take some 600 or 800 grit wet and dry, and sand them until the groove is gone. I do this to all new plates as well, as a slightly scuffed surface grips the balls better. Means you can get the same action, for less pressure in the diff...
Also, I use ACER ceramic balls... and with these two methods my diffs stay smooth for ages, I don't think I've rebuilt the diff in my evo for months now, still smooth as you like

HiH
Ed
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