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Old 12-13-2006, 03:29 PM   #16711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
I'll post my MRE setup I used last weekend when I get off from work in an hour. BTW - work sux. Does anyone have a fix for that?
Agreed... started at 8:30am this morning... its now 10:30 PM, and I won't be getting out of here till midnight. Damm production support

And then I need to be back up for 8:30 tomorrow too, oh joy!
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Old 12-13-2006, 03:35 PM   #16712
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The joys of going to school lol, start at 8.40am finish at 3.05pm , anyone doing 19t BRCA next year?

Charles
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Old 12-13-2006, 04:22 PM   #16713
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try staring at 12am and finnishing at 8am and then racing on sats is at 3pm and i go to work right after racing.
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Old 12-13-2006, 04:35 PM   #16714
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@ WRXTC

If I were you I'd go back to the stock MSX setup and start from there. Just don't use the roll bars, and use 40W oil all round (3 holes pistons front and back), with either HPI blue or Tamiya blue springs. This is mainly what I've used all BRCA season, and I finished 7th overall in 19T. I can tell you it works even on bumpy, dusty tracks (anyone said ashby ???).

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Last edited by TRF415boy; 12-13-2006 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 12-13-2006, 05:36 PM   #16715
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chris_m: Here's my MRE setup. It really worked for me in 19T with foams on carpet. Mod, you will need to stiffen it up even more. The best thing about this setup...no hpi, old MS or any other front end parts. I used the stock front knuckles and carriers. The catch is, you do have to run 26mm front foams. I cut PARMA CYAN to 26mm and left the rear MAGENTA 28mm. They worked great. I hope this helps.
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Last edited by sohlman; 12-13-2006 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 12-13-2006, 06:00 PM   #16716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
chris_m: Here's my MRE setup. It really worked for me in 19T with foams on carpet. Mod, you will need to stiffen it up even more. The best thing about this setup...no hpi, old MS or any other front end parts. I used the stock front knuckles and carriers. The catch is, you do have to run 26mm front foams. I cut PARMA CYAN to 26mm and left the rear MAGENTA 28mm. They worked great. I hope this helps.

Thanks for the set up.
New car to me i just finnished the kit not long ago.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:10 PM   #16717
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One other thing: If you didn't notice from the sheet, I CA glued two top decks together to help stiffen the chassis. The bottom one was milled to allow for the bulkhead and braces to fit flush.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:13 PM   #16718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Agreed... started at 8:30am this morning... its now 10:30 PM, and I won't be getting out of here till midnight. Damm production support

And then I need to be back up for 8:30 tomorrow too, oh joy!
15+ hours a day...THAT sux more! Sorry Ed.
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Old 12-13-2006, 09:15 PM   #16719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
I'm in agreement with TRF415boy.
Shims under the front block = Kickup/Pro-dive
Less initial steering, more mid to exit. This is mainly due to the extra castor caused by running the arms at an angle.

Shims under the rear block = Anti-dive
More initial steering, less mid to exit. Reduced castor angle...
Charles is closer to the answer. Kick-up has a dual purpose. One -to reduce weight transfer to the front and two - it will also increase off-power steering by increasing the caster. If, you add spacers to the rear of the front suspension block, you'll make the car push - which is not what WRXTC was trying to achieve. WRXTC was looking to maintain rear traction and keep the rear end from kicking out, right? Look at the rest of the set-up I suggested for the front. This will make it more clear. Always remember, one thing effects another.
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Old 12-14-2006, 01:52 AM   #16720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
15+ hours a day...THAT sux more! Sorry Ed.
well, I ended up getting out by 3:30am... 19 hours yay

.... and I'm back here by 8:30am, I must be mad.
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Old 12-14-2006, 02:34 AM   #16721
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Hi Guy's
I don't no what the hell happened, I pulled my car down and cleaned it and put it back together and now when I put the car under power looses the tail end to the left.The car want's to spin out to the right. Prior to this the car was so good.
I checked my ride height thats fine 6 at the back 5 1/2 at the front.
Droop 3 mm front and back
I did not change anything at all except pulled down the front and back diff and cleaned and relubed them. I have checked the camber front and back and toe in and out and all exactly the same as they where before.
Is there anything I should check over that I am missing or have could the diffs be to tight or loose but I set them up right I think.

Also when I stop the car and try to do a full lock turn under power to the left the car pushes , but when I turn the car to the right and do a full lock and power the car does a donut easy with no pushing.
Really strange,is there a christmas gremlin in my car. Ha ha.
Any input would be great.
Thanks Guy
Addam

Last edited by TRFMAD; 12-14-2006 at 02:47 AM.
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Old 12-14-2006, 02:43 AM   #16722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
I am really struggling to get rear end grip. The car is oversteering lots when backing off to enter a corner. Under throttle it is very stable. The front end is planted and awesome just the rear likes to step out when I lift off the throttle. I have attached my current setup, would really appreciate it if someone can give me some tips regarding setup and how to make the rear more stable off throttle. I have tried the yellow springs on the rear and no stabilizer bar and it's even worse.
Thanks Jay.
I know you've already been given advice but I thought I'd put an aussie perspective forward, as from what I've heard the Victorian tracks are quite similar in grip to what we have up here in Brisbane.

The reason the back end is sliding out into corners is because you're running too much caster combined with a stiff front roll-bar.

Running a stiff roll-bar on the front makes the car VERY twitchy on our tracks.

Running 2mm spacer under the front block is also giving you too much caster.

Finally, red springs on the rear are making the rear roll too much into corners - which I've found is a major contributor to having the back slide out into corners.

So, the fixes are easy:

Remove 2mm spacer from under the front block.
Use the softest roll-ar on the front (or none at all)
Put Yellow (or preferrably Blue) springs on the rear.

If you like I can send you a good setup for low grip tracks - it might help you out.
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Old 12-14-2006, 02:46 AM   #16723
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Addam,

Firstly check the diff outdrive bearings - if one side is not gritty whilst the other side is nice and smooth that will effect the car.

Secondly, can the diffs move side-to-side slightly in the bulkheads? If not then they could be binding which again would cause the problems you've described.
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Old 12-14-2006, 03:20 AM   #16724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Charles is closer to the answer. Kick-up has a dual purpose. One -to reduce weight transfer to the front and two - it will also increase off-power steering by increasing the caster. If, you add spacers to the rear of the front suspension block, you'll make the car push - which is not what WRXTC was trying to achieve. WRXTC was looking to maintain rear traction and keep the rear end from kicking out, right? Look at the rest of the set-up I suggested for the front. This will make it more clear. Always remember, one thing effects another.
Once again I'm in disagreement with you on the weigth transfer issue. Kick up (or pro-dive) increases weight transfer and due to the way or suspensions are built (i.e. C-Hubs) increases the castor, which BOTH have the effect of increasing turn in. This is why adding spacers under the blocks have so much effect on the car's handling, which is why my first suggestion was to remove those 2mm of spacers.
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Old 12-14-2006, 04:00 AM   #16725
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I agree with TRF415boy, running Kick-Up will give allot more turn inn and can cause the rear end to step out!!
Also, running too much camber change in the rear will upset the balance, understeers on power and oversteers off power!!
I am running 2mm washer under the link on the innside and only 0.5mm on the outside. This gives a nice balance and makes the rear end much more controllable.

If you have problems with the car it is always a good idea to go back to the kit setting. This setup works very good and is always a good starting point
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