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Old 12-11-2006, 05:05 AM   #16666
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Hi guys I've just picked up a V2 7x2 motor and was wondering what FDR should I be running with my MSX?

As its my first time, and I've only ever run stock with this car.

Thanks.
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:39 AM   #16667
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Hi Ray
I have been running a V2 7x1 using a 102/26 ( 8.580 ) and it's good for a open fast track. I started with a 102/30 but was to high and the motor got really hot. the guy's here advised me to drop some teeth in my pinion and it's great now. Let me know if you can keep your motor wires on. I have just sent a email to Orion regarding this matter. With the Gold Coast heat it has become my only issue with the motor.
I have just added TA05 wide teeth pulleys and I highly recommend them.
It gives a smoother drive and changes the ratio from 2.187 to 2.25.
Good luck mate
Addam smith
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Old 12-11-2006, 09:13 AM   #16668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
One more thing.
I went to a bearing place and bought 100 ceramic 3mm bearings for $8.00 Australian dollars. The last time I paid $11.00 from a hobby store for 10 Tamiya 3mm Ball's.
Best wishes
Addam smith
One thing to remember Balls are not balls. There is different ratings (grade) to the balls. I think they rate 1 on up. What the difference is, is how round they are. I bought some ceramic 3mm balls, they were about $20 us DOLLARS but they are .00025mm spherical. the ones you bought might be like a .005 or something at that price. You need to look at what grade they are. If you like butter smooth diffs it makes a big difference.
On the Acer racing site the good balls are grade 5 then the next set is grade 10. they make comment to most diff balls are grade 25. Their best set makes such a smooth diff. it is hard to think about anything else.
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Old 12-11-2006, 01:08 PM   #16669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer
One thing to remember Balls are not balls.
...<snip>
On the Acer racing site ...<snip>
Would you care to post a link please.
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Old 12-11-2006, 01:12 PM   #16670
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www.acerracing.com

very nice products, and fast shipping to boot!
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:16 PM   #16671
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I am really struggling to get rear end grip. The car is oversteering lots when backing off to enter a corner. Under throttle it is very stable. The front end is planted and awesome just the rear likes to step out when I lift off the throttle. I have attached my current setup, would really appreciate it if someone can give me some tips regarding setup and how to make the rear more stable off throttle. I have tried the yellow springs on the rear and no stabilizer bar and it's even worse.
Thanks Jay.
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:27 PM   #16672
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ya...i'm looking for some descent carpet set-ups my-self. this MS is not a good boy on the rug. can anybody help me out?
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:29 PM   #16673
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WRXTC: Before I give you my opinion on the setup, how do you have your ESC setup? Drag brake? Dead band? etc. Do you apply the brakes at all? What are the track conditions like? Dusty? You mention medium grip...did you try a softer rubber. 32s or 30s? Have you tried a Mazada body?
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:41 PM   #16674
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It was a dusty track as I was just practicing, it's usually pretty grippy when a race day is on but other drivers seem to get grip when the track is a little dusty, problem is they don't drive MSX's and I tried softer rubber and it didn't make a great difference.

My ESC is a GTB and I haven't fiddled with the setup. I am using profile 1 on the GTB. I am not applying brakes as the track is pretty free flowing. I have yet to try the Mazda body but I think it's more my setup then body type.

Cheers
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:53 PM   #16675
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Different body makes a big difference. Stratus is not a good body to use when the track does not have much traction, you can try Mazda 6 or Ride Accord, they should help you out. Also, make the ground clearance of the rear to 6.0mm, with 0.5mm higher than the front now, you will give more grip to the front when you let go of your throttle, so you lose grip for the rear. Change the rear inside upper arm spacer to 1.5mm, this will lower the roll center, giving the rear more grip.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:00 PM   #16676
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Thanks I will give the ride height and spacer a try. I might have to get a couple of bodies as well the new Mazda 6 looks like it may be worth while trying.
Anyone else with some tips, feel free to post
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:05 PM   #16677
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why do you have 2mm of spacers under your front-front block ? get rid of it and run your hinge pins flat, this should sort your problem out.
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:16 PM   #16678
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On the bodyshell point of view, my car has always been great with a PF mazda 6. So much that I now will not bother buying anything else, since when I tried the Stratus 3, Moorespeed Mazda, Rayspeed Accord, etc, my lap times weren't quite there, even though the car may have felt better. It might just be me, but I think the MSX loves the Mazda 6... and the results at nationals were there so might be worth a try.
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:22 PM   #16679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
why do you have 2mm of spacers under your front-front block ? get rid of it and run your hinge pins flat, this should sort your problem out.
Someone else at my track that drives an MSX told me to try that out to make the front less twitchy? So I gave it a try and it did help the front end out and didn't contribute to the problems I was experiencing with the rear of the car as the rear was doing the same thing before I put the spacers under the front block.
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:23 PM   #16680
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Yeah, try the Mazada with the wing as far back as possible. Also try one-way(s). The spool will act like a front brake once you begin to turn-in off throttle...it will only roll freely in a straight line. But if you can stay on the throttle, even quarter throttle or less, you should be more stable with the spool in the corners. I prefer a one-way for open, flowing tracks though.
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