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Old 11-22-2006, 08:22 PM   #16516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi Guy's
I just wanted to ask you guy's, I am racing modified on a large open track with my MSX and the grip is fairly good.The track is Ashpalt and out door and it is the gold Coast of Australia so it is bloody hot here. I do have a fair bit of understeer but just wanted to know, I have a spool, diff and a one way to put in the car, at the moment it has a one way. Which one of the 3 would help with the understeer if any one of the 3 maybe one would be better. The problem is power coming out of the corner (Mid to end of corner)
Any help would be great.
Also can anyone recommend is there any one little thing that may help with the understeer.
Thank's Guy's
Addam smith
The one-way would be the best for on power steering and maintain speed mid-corner and out of the corners!
Spool is good for large open track and allows you to use brake, which could be a plus in large track that way your able to go deeper in the corners, but they do have a tendency to loose a little steering. Diff is good if your running foam tires on carpet!
Just my 2$
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Old 11-23-2006, 04:56 AM   #16517
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Thank's Guy's, You guy's alway's come through.
At the moment i have 3 mm of droop front and rear. My ride height is 5.5 at the front and 6 at the back.
How should this page look.
Thanks Guy's
your friend from downunder
Addam
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Old 11-23-2006, 08:00 AM   #16518
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Addam, if your running 3 and 3, id reduce your front droop, holding more of the weight forward on exit under power. Personally, id reduce to 1mm or less up front, and try it.

on carpet, i run .5mm up front and 1mm in rear, and small adjustments on droop can allow me to take tighter or wider lines. Im sure theres better adjustments that can be made for this, but it works well for me.

Your friend, previously from Perth downunder lol
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Old 11-23-2006, 10:33 AM   #16519
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Here's a picture from the Tamiya Japan website of the MSXX.

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Old 11-23-2006, 02:26 PM   #16520
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Need some tips please.
I am running Marc's Reedy Setup on my MSX. I have made the TA05 conversion and using a spool. I am also running a GTB 4.5r system. The car was very taily on a medium grip track. I tried removing the rear swaybar and running harder springs up front and tried different tyres. Through the tight bends the oversteer was terrible and through the large sweeper at the track the car had a lot of understeer and then if the front bit the tarmac the tail would try and break loose. Any ideas on how I can iron out some of these problems?
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Old 11-23-2006, 04:33 PM   #16521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
Need some tips please.
I am running Marc's Reedy Setup on my MSX. I have made the TA05 conversion and using a spool. I am also running a GTB 4.5r system. The car was very taily on a medium grip track. I tried removing the rear swaybar and running harder springs up front and tried different tyres. Through the tight bends the oversteer was terrible and through the large sweeper at the track the car had a lot of understeer and then if the front bit the tarmac the tail would try and break loose. Any ideas on how I can iron out some of these problems?
Go back to kit MSX setup.
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Old 11-23-2006, 07:54 PM   #16522
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Exclamation RE: Reedy set-up

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
Need some tips please.
I am running Marc's Reedy Setup on my MSX. I have made the TA05 conversion and using a spool. I am also running a GTB 4.5r system. The car was very taily on a medium grip track. I tried removing the rear swaybar and running harder springs up front and tried different tyres. Through the tight bends the oversteer was terrible and through the large sweeper at the track the car had a lot of understeer and then if the front bit the tarmac the tail would try and break loose. Any ideas on how I can iron out some of these problems?
The Reedy setup is a good starting point but will not work on all conditions.
I myself ran Mark's setup but increased the droop in the front which helped a lot.
Then took off the swaybar in the rear and softened up the rear. You can do this by going to a different spring or going in on the shock hole location. All this will keep the rear planted.

Last thing I'd like to mention. Many racers say they are using Mark's setup and didn't like it but then to find out later on that they used different oil or piston in the shock or maybe didn't use the exact shims or located the spacers on the arms not exactly to the setup!
Not to say that you didn't use his setup exactly but if you modified the setup in any way you can't say it doesn't work. You really have to be honest to the setup and yourself in order to reap the benefits of the pro drivers knowledge of setup! Believe me I've gone down this same road and did the work to duplicate the setup exactly before I tried something else!
I hope I was of some help!
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Old 11-23-2006, 08:55 PM   #16523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower
The Reedy setup is a good starting point but will not work on all conditions.
I myself ran Mark's setup but increased the droop in the front which helped a lot.
Then took off the swaybar in the rear and softened up the rear. You can do this by going to a different spring or going in on the shock hole location. All this will keep the rear planted.

Last thing I'd like to mention. Many racers say they are using Mark's setup and didn't like it but then to find out later on that they used different oil or piston in the shock or maybe didn't use the exact shims or located the spacers on the arms not exactly to the setup!
Not to say that you didn't use his setup exactly but if you modified the setup in any way you can't say it doesn't work. You really have to be honest to the setup and yourself in order to reap the benefits of the pro drivers knowledge of setup! Believe me I've gone down this same road and did the work to duplicate the setup exactly before I tried something else!
I hope I was of some help!
After further discussion with other racers I have found out that the Reedy track has a lot of grip. A lot more than the dusty track I was practicing on the other day. I did however copy his exact setup shims and all, the only difference is I used Integy silicon shock oil 40w and he had the Tamiya oil. However Marc is a pro an I am a newb and still learning about setups and effects certain setups have. Going back to the kit setup will not help, if it was effective for where I race I would have never changed. I will try some softer springs on the rear. I am running yellow all round, maybe I will try red on the rear. And when you said go in on the damper stay do you mean go to hole number 1? As 1 would mean the shock is almost lying down. I will also try increasing the droop in the front. Thanks maxepower

P.S. I never said his setup didn't work, it just didn't suit either my driving style and/or track conditions.
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Old 11-23-2006, 10:02 PM   #16524
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From the shadow on the picture of the TRF415MSXX, can anyone tell if the lower deck is new? I just want to know about the front end, where the bumper is.

Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2006, 02:30 AM   #16525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf_racer
From the shadow on the picture of the TRF415MSXX, can anyone tell if the lower deck is new? I just want to know about the front end, where the bumper is.

Thanks.
What an idea....Looking at the reflection off the suface. The front bumper looks narrower. But then due to parallex error,I might be wrong...
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Old 11-24-2006, 07:07 AM   #16526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf_racer
From the shadow on the picture of the TRF415MSXX, can anyone tell if the lower deck is new? I just want to know about the front end, where the bumper is.

Thanks.
From what ive heard its a 2mm chassi and therefore may have a different shape.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:32 AM   #16527
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Someone please tell me what is the size of the bearing inside rear diff?thz
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Old 11-24-2006, 10:36 AM   #16528
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Has anyone done the following modifcation of fitting the tech racing 18t pully with the 36 t pullys to reduce the fdr to 2 I done with the mre belts but,
I am just wondering if anyone knows what belt size you need to fit the tech racing 18t pully with some adjustment. The mre belt do fit but a tight on the slackest setting. The belt lenghts for the mre are 180 rear and 504 on the front i am thinking of using 182 rear and 506 on the front to stop them being tight.
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Old 11-24-2006, 10:57 AM   #16529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
After further discussion with other racers I have found out that the Reedy track has a lot of grip. A lot more than the dusty track I was practicing on the other day. I did however copy his exact setup shims and all, the only difference is I used Integy silicon shock oil 40w and he had the Tamiya oil. However Marc is a pro an I am a newb and still learning about setups and effects certain setups have. Going back to the kit setup will not help, if it was effective for where I race I would have never changed. I will try some softer springs on the rear. I am running yellow all round, maybe I will try red on the rear. And when you said go in on the damper stay do you mean go to hole number 1? As 1 would mean the shock is almost lying down. I will also try increasing the droop in the front. Thanks maxepower

P.S. I never said his setup didn't work, it just didn't suit either my driving style and/or track conditions.
Really just start with the kit setup with no roll bars and use the spool to get an idea of how the car handles the track to start with.

Remeber 80% of the handling depends on th grip which means trye choice and surface level of grip. Find the tyre that work best over a 5 minute period and the insert that suits the temp less air gap = less rolling friction = less grip due less friction making the tyre heat up. In a hot country like Austrailia you need a small air gap and use the heat of the track surface to make the tyres grip. Also you will find that using harder spring will reduce the mechanical grip as well, to stop you over cooking the tyres which I think is also happening as well as being dusty.
The first thing to once you get some consistancy out of the tyre grip over the 5 min race period is to set the droop up correctly if you don't you will
have a VERY hard car to drive and hard to setup.
To set the droop up first set your cars ride height up. Then tighten the droop screw down till you cannot move the spring up and down the spring but be able to rotate it. this give you the ideal droop for the ride height shock angle and spring rate, then make it equal l to right, never front to rear as where the drops screw are and shock angle and spring rate and ride height are different front to rear.
Another major fault you get which can screw up the handling is the hinge pins make sure they rotate freely in the arms if the don't then bin them, even if they look straight on the flat surface you use. As this why my car was very difficult to drive even TRF415 boy was wondering how I was able to drive a car that handled soooooo bad due to the hinge pins being bent.
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:02 AM   #16530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Orange
From what ive heard its a 2mm chassi and therefore may have a different shape.
Huh why? all you do is change the material thickness in the cutting machine wheter it laser water or milling head cutter and reset the x values and tell the machine it cutting 2mm instead of 2.5mm and it will cut the same shape over and over again. Please don't say thing like this is if gonna take more time and more money in redesign something that works well why bother....
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