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Old 11-16-2006, 08:41 AM   #16426
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anyboy know the part number for the MRE cvd pin - the small pin inside the joint thanks
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:44 AM   #16427
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Default Rubbing belts

If your belts are rubbing, you could take the spacer from the top of the arm and put it in the bottom, so you'll have 2 spacers at the bottom and raise the steering assembly by .010, this gives a little more clearance.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:13 AM   #16428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
With my CO27, im running around 102/31 to let the CO rev. try between 30-33 and see what performs. Another local racer was running around 6.95 in his T2 and coming off around 180f, and was slow. adjusted to around 7.65 like i was running, and was much better, and came off at 120f with no fade. Id start at 102/30, and go up to where you like it to run.

This was on carpet with foams in a tight technical track.
what type of rollout were you using? what was the diameter of your foams?
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:34 AM   #16429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq
anyboy know the part number for the MRE cvd pin - the small pin inside the joint thanks
The parts no is #53500.it is a cross joint for tamiya cvd!!

http://www.racing11.net/shop/product...roducts_id=156
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:03 PM   #16430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRacer
what type of rollout were you using? what was the diameter of your foams?
From memory, i precut to 59mm, as did the T2 driver.

Just seemed the CO wanted to stretch its legs. We had a very short straight, and the motors were singing by the end of it. Just thought the guy who asked could start a little lower on the pinion, and work up depending on track layout.

I got myself a X stock with some good numbers, so ill see how that performs also.

Also i put both spacers under the steering also, i wasnt about to shave the blue!.
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Old 11-16-2006, 05:11 PM   #16431
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Ok, I moved the second spacer so both are on the bottom, and demeled alittle off the one side, problem solved. Now, besides the esc thing, the front wheels chatter like mad when they go past 60% either way. I stripped down both of the CVDs and checked them, no idea whats causing it.

Also, what kind of foam tires are you guys using? the ones I have are rubbing the side of the steering knuckle. I can't win for loosing.

My Ta04 is way smoother with dog bones and doesn't chatter a bit.

I've gone back through the instructions to double check my settings, and I have everything where is should be.
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Old 11-16-2006, 05:32 PM   #16432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Interceptor
Ok, I moved the second spacer so both are on the bottom, and demeled alittle off the one side, problem solved. Now, besides the esc thing, the front wheels chatter like mad when they go past 60% either way. I stripped down both of the CVDs and checked them, no idea whats causing it.

Also, what kind of foam tires are you guys using? the ones I have are rubbing the side of the steering knuckle. I can't win for loosing.

My Ta04 is way smoother with dog bones and doesn't chatter a bit.

I've gone back through the instructions to double check my settings, and I have everything where is should be.

The chatter is normal, it's because of the spool. If you're running foams on carpet get yourself a front diff. you want to use HPI hubs on the front too to get the clearance, or 6mm wheel hexes.
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Old 11-16-2006, 05:38 PM   #16433
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Well, looks like a centre one-way, using the MRE/TA05 style layshaft is being trialled....

http://www13.ocn.ne.jp/~mirage-j/gal...06expCAR02.jpg

Pic of Marc R's car from Japanese nationals. Certainly looks like he's running dual 1-ways.

@ Interceptor. The chatter, unfortuantly, is one of thoose things that happens, simply as the CVD's we use aren't true CVD's. It is more noticeable with a spool, as both axles are spining at the same rate, and any change in velocity of the axle is amplified.
If you run a Diff or one-way it'll be less noticeable. As long as you have built the car correctly, it should be fine. Also, you shouldn't need to use full steering lock to get round the track... especially given the amount of steering an MRE has

Foams, I can't help too much with... but I think 26mm wide may be the limit due to the wheels hitting the kunckles. This is because the front knuckles (and the cer in general) is designed for rubbers, which the most common size is 24mm.
From what I recall, there are a few things you can do to help.

1) run the 6mm silver wheel hexes, with some spacers to space out the wheels from the knuckles. Just beware, this could take you over the 190mm width, but is the easiest to do

2) Run HPI/HB Cyclone front knuckles. Effectively you can run these as a direct replacement, and all known foams have enough clearance.
You need the front knuckles, 4 x 1050 bearings, and some HPI/HB non-MIP stlye wheel axles. Fit them together (the tamiya dogbones are a direct fit into thoose axles), replace the current front knuckles, put a 1mm spacer between the C-hub and the top of the HPI knuckle, and your good to go
It's a bit more of an expensive route... but it seems a lot of foam tyre racers use this method with good success.

3)Cut down your wheels to fit... or run thinner fronts.

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Old 11-16-2006, 05:43 PM   #16434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
The chatter is normal, it's because of the spool. If you're running foams on carpet get yourself a front diff. you want to use HPI hubs on the front too to get the clearance, or 6mm wheel hexes.

Ah.. well then that explains it. Thanks. I was thinking is was all screwed up.
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:58 PM   #16435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Well, looks like a centre one-way, using the MRE/TA05 style layshaft is being trialled....

http://www13.ocn.ne.jp/~mirage-j/gal...06expCAR02.jpg

Pic of Marc R's car from Japanese nationals. Certainly looks like he's running dual 1-ways.

HiH
Ed
I wonder Ed if the car Marc is running is the TRF415MSXX due to the 4 cell configuration, no cut out on the bottom deck where the ESC is located for the alum airduct & the front oneway unit?
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:09 PM   #16436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
I wonder Ed if the car Marc is running is the TRF415MSXX due to the 4 cell configuration, no cut out on the bottom deck where the ESC is located for the alum airduct & the front oneway unit?

The 415MSXX thats going on production does have the cut out for the alu airduct & it will come with the alu airduct & one way... The MSXX is a 'cheaper' version of the MRE thats all, ie. Less Ti screws

I think that's a custom made chassis for Marc for the JMRCA.
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:56 PM   #16437
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Looks like he put a receiver pack and his transponder on the right side, I wonder if thats enough to balance the car out.

Also, why doesn't he put he other stabilizer bar end on?
What servo saver is he using?
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:35 PM   #16438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
From memory, i precut to 59mm, as did the T2 driver.

Just seemed the CO wanted to stretch its legs. We had a very short straight, and the motors were singing by the end of it. Just thought the guy who asked could start a little lower on the pinion, and work up depending on track layout.

I got myself a X stock with some good numbers, so ill see how that performs also.

Also i put both spacers under the steering also, i wasnt about to shave the blue!.
thanks, i currently run the CO27 in my Evo 5 and i am trying to find a good gearing point for my local tracks. my car runs well wit the curent setup, but it just doesn't have the "dartiness" when it comes out the corners.
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:12 AM   #16439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
Looks like he put a receiver pack and his transponder on the right side, I wonder if thats enough to balance the car out.

Also, why doesn't he put he other stabilizer bar end on?
What servo saver is he using?
His not using the roll bars. As you can see from the pic, the roll bars are not connected to the lower arms.

And he's not using a servo saver. Just a Servo horn.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:18 AM   #16440
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You can also see that the cell cuts are still there under the transponder.... my guess is it's just an old prototype chassis. Either that or he's covered up the ducting hole well (you can still see the wider suspension mount holes).

Fair amount of timing being run on the motor too... 3 notchs, thats 18 degrees isn't it??

HiH
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