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Old 11-14-2006, 02:45 PM   #16411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Interceptor
Hey, any suggestions on what pinion gear size to start with if I am running a Co27 stock motor? The tract is a carpet, with loks of turns. Spur gear is the stock, car is a MSX Rihienhart edition. Thanks!
102 / 33 final drive 6.95 will get you close. Smaller track smaller pinion, larger track larger pinion!
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Old 11-14-2006, 02:50 PM   #16412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
I thought so, when I finally made it home I tried that prior to looking at your response and pic and it worked ok. Although the centre shaft really doesn't extend that much into the bearings it looks like it should be ok. Now I need shorter screws for my spur gear mount they extend through about 1mm past the spur gear holder where the delrin pulley is
hey

make sure you use the correct spacers that precision send if you have to much float on the pully the delrin cogs start to work ther way across bit confused why didn't you bye the proper mre pully from precion.
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Old 11-14-2006, 03:21 PM   #16413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuey
hey

make sure you use the correct spacers that precision send if you have to much float on the pully the delrin cogs start to work ther way across bit confused why didn't you bye the proper mre pully from precion.
Thanks mate,
I did use the spacers that came with the conversion kit that I got from precisionrc and there is no play at all and fits nicely. I didn't realise there was an MRE pulley set available Oh well I was just a little concerned that the shaft may be a little short but it seems fine now.
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Old 11-14-2006, 03:39 PM   #16414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
Thanks mate,
I did use the spacers that came with the conversion kit that I got from precisionrc and there is no play at all and fits nicely. I didn't realise there was an MRE pulley set available Oh well I was just a little concerned that the shaft may be a little short but it seems fine now.
thats cool dude the pullys are a definet improvment ive been running the same one for about 4 months now and ive only striped one belt and one pully and that was only because the front drive shaft pin came out and stop the car dead on carpet 19t.

stu
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Old 11-15-2006, 04:54 PM   #16415
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Did tamiya do two lengths of drive shaft pins I am running the msx 46mm driveshaft in the ta04 / 415 supension as it work well for carpet but the drive pins are prone to slipping out or can't take a hit off the boards. It ruined the last to races I went to. I really need to know weather the pin sizes are different; or do I need new out drives?

415 is awesome but 3wd is not good
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Old 11-15-2006, 05:19 PM   #16416
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Sammy,

Which end is it happening? cup end (ie the small pin) or outdrive?
and F or R?

I know tamiya do make some 48mm long dogbones now, but also, the original 415's 1way outdrive cups were slightly longer too. That could be part of the problem. It's still possible to get the outdrive cups I believe, so two options open too you... or a third.. stay off the boards

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Old 11-15-2006, 06:48 PM   #16417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Did tamiya do two lengths of drive shaft pins I am running the msx 46mm driveshaft in the ta04 / 415 supension as it work well for carpet but the drive pins are prone to slipping out or can't take a hit off the boards. It ruined the last to races I went to. I really need to know weather the pin sizes are different; or do I need new out drives?

415 is awesome but 3wd is not good
which pins are you referring to?
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Old 11-15-2006, 07:50 PM   #16418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Did tamiya do two lengths of drive shaft pins I am running the msx 46mm driveshaft in the ta04 / 415 supension as it work well for carpet but the drive pins are prone to slipping out or can't take a hit off the boards. It ruined the last to races I went to. I really need to know weather the pin sizes are different; or do I need new out drives?

415 is awesome but 3wd is not good
Yes I have messed this up myself, while rebuilding the hub, I put the hub pin back into the CVD (the one that goes with the coupling) and later I realized that the pin for the hubs are a little shorter, and the ends are more rounded as opposed to the pin that goes into the CVD.
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:05 PM   #16419
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Just finished building mine, and I have some questions. This doesn't seem to be running as smooth as i think it should. It seems as if when I turn the wheels to the right, one of the steering posts is rubbing the belt.

Also, from a electronics standpoint, I'm running a brand new Spektrum DX 2.0 and a Keyence Infinity A-01B esc, and the when I have the car on a stand and give is some low end throttle and hold it, the speed of the car seems to pulse instead of being smooth and steady. Also, very low end throttle is choppy. I've re linked the rx to the tx, and I've set the esc like the manual states, and I'm lost. This car set up should be smooth as butter.

I'll go over everything again in the morning, after reading any ideas from you guys.
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:28 PM   #16420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Interceptor
Just finished building mine, and I have some questions. This doesn't seem to be running as smooth as i think it should. It seems as if when I turn the wheels to the right, one of the steering posts is rubbing the belt.

Also, from a electronics standpoint, I'm running a brand new Spektrum DX 2.0 and a Keyence Infinity A-01B esc, and the when I have the car on a stand and give is some low end throttle and hold it, the speed of the car seems to pulse instead of being smooth and steady. Also, very low end throttle is choppy. I've re linked the rx to the tx, and I've set the esc like the manual states, and I'm lost. This car set up should be smooth as butter.

I'll go over everything again in the morning, after reading any ideas from you guys.
I assume you finish building a MRE.Nope...I love the smoothness of the MRE.

Regarding the steering post hitting the belt, the instructions instructs you to grind a little aluminium away to that it would hit the belt.However,we've many here who did not grind away any material and it did not hit the belt in anyway.

About the throttle being choppy, it probably down to your ESC. You could borrow one of your buddy's ESC and try it out. I've never questioned anything about it's smoothness...
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:31 PM   #16421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower
The lightweight center shaft is shorter than the original with the c-clips but not long enough to go across the pully mount. The bearing holders that go on the ouside of the original shaft need to go on the inside of the pulley mount in order to reach accross. This is using the Tamiya TA05 lightweight shaft. I don't know if the precision RC one is the same but here is a picture that show what I mean, I'll try and find it and post it asap!
On my conversion!
why do you have to use the TA05 pulleys, what's wrong w/ the original direct center pulley?
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:36 PM   #16422
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You don't have to use the TA05 centre pulley system or the front and rear pullies, the reason I have elected to do so was to increase the internal ratio of the car to 2.25 instead of 2.187. The centre pullies are the same size but the front and rear pullies are one tooth larger thus giving you a different internal ratio. The TA05 centre pullies are lighter and more efficient and easier to change when the centre pullies get worn out.
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:00 AM   #16423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony q
why do you have to use the TA05 pulleys, what's wrong w/ the original direct center pulley?
I just changed mine because I thought the white delrin pulleys looked cool.

Just kidding!

It's suppose to be more efficient drive train! Larger pulley and a notch off every other tooth on the pulley. I'm using the new pulleys! Someone said the original belts won't work on the new pulleys but mine seem fine!
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Old 11-16-2006, 03:21 AM   #16424
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Talking Hey maxepower - what 4mm spacers did you use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower
The lightweight center shaft is shorter than the original with the c-clips but not long enough to go across the pully mount. The bearing holders that go on the ouside of the original shaft need to go on the inside of the pulley mount in order to reach accross. This is using the Tamiya TA05 lightweight shaft. I don't know if the precision RC one is the same but here is a picture that show what I mean, I'll try and find it and post it asap!
On my conversion!
I bought the TA05 lightweight center shaft and other pulley conversion stuff seperately from Rc Champ. I need some 4mm spacers to center the shaft, but I don't want to stack a bunch of .1mm spacers. The set from precision RC comes with some custom ones I am assuming.

What spacers did you find to use, or did you make some custom? I'm thinking about drilling out some 5.5x3mm spacers to 4mm internal and try that out.

Thanks for any help.


----------------------------------

After some early a.m. research, I've found the 4x2.8mm spacer from the TA05 kit, but you still need another 2-3 mm worth of shims. I'm going with the 4x2.8mm spacer and some 4mm shims to take up the slack.

Last edited by afr0sch; 11-16-2006 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:59 AM   #16425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower
102 / 33 final drive 6.95 will get you close. Smaller track smaller pinion, larger track larger pinion!
With my CO27, im running around 102/31 to let the CO rev. try between 30-33 and see what performs. Another local racer was running around 6.95 in his T2 and coming off around 180f, and was slow. adjusted to around 7.65 like i was running, and was much better, and came off at 120f with no fade. Id start at 102/30, and go up to where you like it to run.

This was on carpet with foams in a tight technical track.
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