3LikesTamiya TRF415
10-25-2006, 05:44 AM
Tech Addict
Difuser: Just came back from track for more testing. My car is better now but still far not satisfy. I'm using AE purple on front and AE copper on rear. They are extemely hard and I have never thought to use it on outdoor track. But anyway, it works better. OK. I will try to use 2mm drop on rear see what happen. Every bit is important for me to get closer and closer. I have never thought of change the wheelbase as I don't want my tyre touching the body. Looks like I need to try this too to close my car better. Do you recommend on changing the shorter wheelbase by moving the front arm or rear arm first? Or they provide the same effect? Also, you have memtion 'arm sweep' what exactly does it mean? thanks
BTW, After changed to extrememly hard spring. My car still not lose at all. I'm using LRP 4 star brushless system.
BTW, After changed to extrememly hard spring. My car still not lose at all. I'm using LRP 4 star brushless system.
10-25-2006, 06:53 AM
Tech Addict
Does anyone knows the part number for the diff screw? Just broken today
10-25-2006, 07:02 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Originally Posted by Difuser
Droop is regardless of ride height it is the limiting of down travel of the arm. I can have 2mm droop at 12mm of ride height. and yes 1mm of droop can make a very large change in dynamics of the car. At our track some of our locals can be off by the 1mm and it takes a car that is loose in transition to a car that is very"buttoned down". At 3mm currently I would tell you to tighten it up some at our track.
As for other solutions to the car look at wheelbase and the rest. Again the setup that is on the MRE is a highspeed track based set-up if you are fighting it on a tigh technical tack then I would revert to the Refine setup the narrower hinge pins helps the car transition quicker. The arm sweep in the front also helps initiate turn-in also. If you look at the build manual you can find the r2 baseline.
As for other solutions to the car look at wheelbase and the rest. Again the setup that is on the MRE is a highspeed track based set-up if you are fighting it on a tigh technical tack then I would revert to the Refine setup the narrower hinge pins helps the car transition quicker. The arm sweep in the front also helps initiate turn-in also. If you look at the build manual you can find the r2 baseline.
10-25-2006, 07:08 AM
Originally Posted by RocketRacer
can someone please tell me what the main differences between the Refine 2 kit and the MRE are??
10-25-2006, 08:59 AM
R2 setup is what you see in the big build manual not the parts supplement.
For changes the rear hub is .5mm lower as pointed out by Harshguy I think
Iox- I would look to the front first as that is the main difference between the setups. If I remember correct the rear arm is .5mm forward the front is about a 2mm change and it loads the front axle quite a bit more.
On the spring rates you still sound a bit heavy. We are indoor asphalt and just ran a 24 hour Enduro. Think Foam carpet grip levels we are still running yellow and blue spring rates though. If you are outdoor and in the Northern hemisphere your temps should be dropping and you should be going softer not stiffer. Oil rates should be in the 30-50 range with 2 or 3 hole. I went to a 2 hole to get a little more pack and slow the SXS transition. If it is getting colder go to a 3-hole with the 50wt.
Running that stiff you are really limiting roll on the car and relying on the tire grip levels. Once that grip goes then the car starts to break away funny and not progressive at all.
If you are southern then I would still only be in the blues with 50wt.
Helpling one of the guys at the track last night who had a mostly kit setup we also dropped the inner link 2mm to get more traction in the middle of the corner. He was complaining of the car "washing" after initial turn-in. With the 2mm rise in the stud it does not build enough traction in the middle of the turn.
Hope it all helps.....
For changes the rear hub is .5mm lower as pointed out by Harshguy I think
Iox- I would look to the front first as that is the main difference between the setups. If I remember correct the rear arm is .5mm forward the front is about a 2mm change and it loads the front axle quite a bit more.
On the spring rates you still sound a bit heavy. We are indoor asphalt and just ran a 24 hour Enduro. Think Foam carpet grip levels we are still running yellow and blue spring rates though. If you are outdoor and in the Northern hemisphere your temps should be dropping and you should be going softer not stiffer. Oil rates should be in the 30-50 range with 2 or 3 hole. I went to a 2 hole to get a little more pack and slow the SXS transition. If it is getting colder go to a 3-hole with the 50wt.
Running that stiff you are really limiting roll on the car and relying on the tire grip levels. Once that grip goes then the car starts to break away funny and not progressive at all.
If you are southern then I would still only be in the blues with 50wt.
Helpling one of the guys at the track last night who had a mostly kit setup we also dropped the inner link 2mm to get more traction in the middle of the corner. He was complaining of the car "washing" after initial turn-in. With the 2mm rise in the stud it does not build enough traction in the middle of the turn.
Hope it all helps.....
10-25-2006, 09:10 AM
Oops missed the arm sweep portion, it looks like this \ / on the car. It is using 2 different toe blocks on the front of the car. So if you were using say A/A your hinge pins would look like I I if youre using A/D your arms would look like \ /. It is adding inboard toe to the front arms and aids turn-in. I have to use street physics as I am not an engineer but I look at it as the aids the suspension arm in breakaway resistance. Same as when you bend anything, the arm is not perpindicular to the chassis. In roll it breaks away easier as it is already positioned to move in the direction of load. There is also some shortening of wheelbase and alot of other thigs that happen but that is prolly the easiest explanation.
It was first used in the Losi from what I can remember. We started using it in the Evo 3 in '03 and it has been alot more widely accepted in the last 2 years on most cars now.
It was first used in the Losi from what I can remember. We started using it in the Evo 3 in '03 and it has been alot more widely accepted in the last 2 years on most cars now.
10-25-2006, 02:12 PM
Originally Posted by WRXTC
I race on outdoor asphault so having flex in the car is actually a benefit. I don't think I will need a centre post then!
HiH
Ed
10-25-2006, 02:14 PM
Originally Posted by Mi2_Tastic
Heres my 415 freshly rebuilt and looking good
that's very nice.
So how much have you spent on that?
10-25-2006, 11:20 PM
Originally Posted by ioxqq
Does anyone knows the part number for the diff screw? Just broken today
HTH
10-26-2006, 06:20 AM
Tech Addict
Thanks on the part number.
Difuser: Just came back from track. Traction is high as usual. And my car is still push but better then yesterday. This time I have adjust the rear drop to 1mm. Changed front and rear wheelbase to the shortest. Using TAmiya white spring all around as you recommeded. Car is easier to turn now but still far from what I want. It still push entering into concer. So, I changed the back the front spring to AE red, rear remain the same. Got little better on that. What else do you recommend? I think I will need to cut down the spolier a bit next time i'm currently using Protoform Mazda 6.
My car has lots of rear traction and getting out of concer is good. Just not enough turning entering concer.
thanks
Difuser: Just came back from track. Traction is high as usual. And my car is still push but better then yesterday. This time I have adjust the rear drop to 1mm. Changed front and rear wheelbase to the shortest. Using TAmiya white spring all around as you recommeded. Car is easier to turn now but still far from what I want. It still push entering into concer. So, I changed the back the front spring to AE red, rear remain the same. Got little better on that. What else do you recommend? I think I will need to cut down the spolier a bit next time i'm currently using Protoform Mazda 6.
My car has lots of rear traction and getting out of concer is good. Just not enough turning entering concer.
thanks
10-26-2006, 06:34 AM
Originally Posted by Tral
Do you have any idea how to mount Orion 4800 LIPO pack to MRE or MSX?
if you have the MSX no problem with the stick type chassis but if you have the MRE you might have a problem regarding the steering system 
10-26-2006, 10:35 AM
Pushing MSX!
Originally Posted by ioxqq
Thanks on the part number.
Difuser: Just came back from track. Traction is high as usual. And my car is still push but better then yesterday. This time I have adjust the rear drop to 1mm. Changed front and rear wheelbase to the shortest. Using TAmiya white spring all around as you recommeded. Car is easier to turn now but still far from what I want. It still push entering into concer. So, I changed the back the front spring to AE red, rear remain the same. Got little better on that. What else do you recommend? I think I will need to cut down the spolier a bit next time i'm currently using Protoform Mazda 6.
My car has lots of rear traction and getting out of concer is good. Just not enough turning entering concer.
thanks
Difuser: Just came back from track. Traction is high as usual. And my car is still push but better then yesterday. This time I have adjust the rear drop to 1mm. Changed front and rear wheelbase to the shortest. Using TAmiya white spring all around as you recommeded. Car is easier to turn now but still far from what I want. It still push entering into concer. So, I changed the back the front spring to AE red, rear remain the same. Got little better on that. What else do you recommend? I think I will need to cut down the spolier a bit next time i'm currently using Protoform Mazda 6.
My car has lots of rear traction and getting out of concer is good. Just not enough turning entering concer.
thanks
Anyway, running a spool here at the Tamiya track you can loose some steering so to correct the problem.... this is a very quick fix but it did work! Blue sway bar in the back and no sway bar in the front. It may give you too much steering! Another suggestion!
Less droop in the front will also keep the weight from transfering to the rear and this will help on power coming out of the corner steering!
Just trying to be of some help!
10-26-2006, 12:09 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Dumb question
Can't seem to find this....I keep seeing parts for the LW suspension.Can anyone give a quick explanation of what that is?How is it or is it different than the MRE suspension parts?Think so as the aprt numbers differ.Thanks,Mario.
10-26-2006, 12:18 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
One Mo' time
Can I get a starting rollout for a tightish layout?We are using the trinity stock purple endbell handout motors.Or a gear ratio to start with?Thanks again,Mario.
10-26-2006, 01:43 PM
Originally Posted by lotus1
Can't seem to find this....I keep seeing parts for the LW suspension.Can anyone give a quick explanation of what that is?How is it or is it different than the MRE suspension parts?Think so as the aprt numbers differ.Thanks,Mario.
The LW suspension is the same as that supplied with the MRE.... except that the MRE comes with 46mm driveshafts (I believe the re-released LWS comes with 48mm), and 0deg alloy rear hubs (plastic 1deg for the LWS).
The differing part number might be the short LWS arms... they are around 1-1.5mm shorter than the std LWS... and seem to be good for carpet work.
HiH
Ed