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Old 10-23-2006, 04:08 PM   #16171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTC
Thanks mate.
just make sure you set up the servo horn, so that when the wheels are straight, the servo horn is 90 degs to the steering linkage. You dont want the servo horn straight up when the wheels are straight.

Im so unbeleiveably happy with the MRE on carpet. Im still using the std suspension, and its dialled. with old batts and an old motor, i was able to rip of some really quick laps. Seems to work better with my slight changes. Who said the MRE wouldnt be good for carpet.... you have a nice set of LWS ready for asphalt, and with a few cheap std suspension parts (couldnt even buy an old TA04 of ebay if your keen) and your set for carpet. you can notice flex in the chassis when pushed, but for all intensive purposes, im hooked. Love this car.
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Old 10-23-2006, 04:28 PM   #16172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean T Guy
If I was to use the new short wishbones (53928) would it be better to change the blocks as to regain track width? If so what blocks would work on the MRE , Thank you to anybody who can advise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LBSR415
you would want to use the larger blocks in a combination to restore your toe in or out,,,for example,,,,,,,with the long suspension you could use an A block and a B block to achieve 1 degree of toe,,,with the short arms you could us a d and and e to maintain track width,,,,,,,you may have to switch to 42mm driveshafts
I run my car with the short wishbones and the standard MRE blocks (B-A on front and XB-D on the rear) without any problem. Track width is on the low side (183mm on the rear) but there's not much you can do about that apart from going to 6mm hexes and using shims, going for the E block instead of the D will only make 1mm difference in total...

By the way LBSR415 you have it wrong, it's only half a degree of toe between blocks, so having A-B is 0.5 toe and not 1 as you wrote.

46mm driveshafts are fine too by the way, they go deep in the diff halves but still fine, however if going for a narrower track you might have to go for the old style 42mm driveshafts.

I'm using the car with the short arms on carpet and loving it. It's not a MRE so my setup won't help you but I would think if you reduce the ackermann you could use a similar setup to mine. Those arms have finally got me round to using my MSX on carpet rather than my standard 415...
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Old 10-23-2006, 05:08 PM   #16173
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One thing I did notice with the short EVO V arms and the standard MSX with the front one way, is that the 46mm driveshafts are too long, you have to go to 42mm.
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Old 10-23-2006, 05:12 PM   #16174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlap
One thing I did notice with the short EVO V arms and the standard MSX with the front one way, is that the 46mm driveshafts are too long, you have to go to 42mm.
I would think so if you're using the standard MSX blocks B-XB
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Old 10-23-2006, 05:22 PM   #16175
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By the way for those interested, here's my top 5 updates to get a MSX to handle properly on carpet with rubber tyres:

SHORT LW wishbones
HPI front hubs
Tech Racing top deck
4mm chassis
hpi rear hubs (purely for the bigger bearings though)

After putting the first 2 (in order) the car started handling right. After putting the Tech top deck the car started handling real good (note 2 top decks one of top of each other might do the trick, but I'd be worried about tweak issues).

The 4mm chassis is mainly because I'm going to go to some high grip carpet track and want to make sure my car's not gonna suffer from being too soft (one of the main problems with the MSX on carpet IMHO).

With the MRE i wouldn't think the HPI front hubs would be necessary as the new steering allows you to modify the ackermann (and frankly the stock setting has way too much ackermann by the way), whereas the MSX has very little ackermann and the hpi hubs provide slightly more.

By the way I've been told Marc used a MS with the 4mm chassis at Vegas.
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Old 10-23-2006, 09:48 PM   #16176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
just make sure you set up the servo horn, so that when the wheels are straight, the servo horn is 90 degs to the steering linkage. You dont want the servo horn straight up when the wheels are straight..

I just put it together and set it up as per the manual and it works fine just looked a little off!
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Old 10-24-2006, 12:00 AM   #16177
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what parts do i need to build a front one-way for the MRE? thanks!!!
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Old 10-24-2006, 12:56 AM   #16178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badboy
what parts do i need to build a front one-way for the MRE? thanks!!!

Or you can wait for the one way to be release sometime next month....
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:07 AM   #16179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badboy
what parts do i need to build a front one-way for the MRE? thanks!!!
Tamiya will be releasing a front one-way for the MRE but if you cannot wait try the following parts:

MRE front pulley
415 front one way housing - TAM 1059
415 LW one-way drive cup - TAM 3704
plus the bearing
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Old 10-24-2006, 04:02 AM   #16180
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Does Tamiya makes a better sway bar mount for the MRE? The stock one has too much slop.
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:31 AM   #16181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq
Does Tamiya makes a better sway bar mount for the MRE? The stock one has too much slop.
same as trf 415 msx,,,,tao5 works too just got to cut them down a bit,,,,,
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:29 AM   #16182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buboy28
Tamiya will be releasing a front one-way for the MRE but if you cannot wait try the following parts:

MRE front pulley
415 front one way housing - TAM 1059
415 LW one-way drive cup - TAM 3704
plus the bearing
One way housing for the MRE will be shipping late Nov according Tamiya Japan website - part #:53947. Time to buy an MRE...
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:03 AM   #16183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veecee
One way housing for the MRE will be shipping late Nov according Tamiya Japan website - part #:53947. Time to buy an MRE...
oh, ok thanks for the update although we are also located in Asia our LHS sometimes get these parts a little bit late
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Old 10-24-2006, 09:24 AM   #16184
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Good that a proper one-way for the MRE is coming out soon but, when is the air duct coming out?

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Old 10-24-2006, 09:32 AM   #16185
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I need the oneway!

I'm running the MRE and I see the car is big push and lots of steering getting out of concer. I think this is mainly due to the front solid diff. I have tried about everything. eg, change roll center, 2 deg caster, front toe out, added front kick up, higher rear ride height 6mm R and 4.5 F, F & R white springs, auto break, smaller spoiler, min. rear drop, blue (thickest)sway bar on rear and med (stock) sway bar on front, .... car still push. I'm going to put a harder spring on rear AE red while maintain white on front. I'm sure this will help a lot. What is your recommendation, what else should I try?? PS, I'm new for front solid diff.Thanks

BTW, I always like put a harder spring on rear to give me faster direction change and more sterering over all. But how come I see most people use Front harder and Rear softer? I just can't set my car right if I use rear softer and harder on front. This has been my experience since TC3. I'm sure if your car is not lose then harder on rear is always faster setup. How come this is not seems right statement for everyone?? Is people lazy to try something new or my car setup is rare?
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